Martina Demmel sends Coma Sant Pere (8c+)

Martina Demmel has done Coma Sant Pere (8c+) in Margalef. ”Still in disbelief! How I missed the feeling of dominating almost all the 45 meters... keeping my focus after passing my previous highpoint was another crux! 6 tries & more on Insta soon:)” (c) Jordi Rullo

The next day she moved to Siurana and completed 2 x 30 (8c). ”Having a 100% humidity on those always soaked holds was far from ideal but since Vera started the send-train again, I had to jump on as well;) had it in my mind for 4 years when I touched the holds the first time! 9 tries in total.

How long are you staying in Spain and when will you start preparing for the World Cup?
I'm gonna stay in Margalef until the end of February because then it's time to go back home for the selection comp for the World cups. This trip was already planned with the national team coaches since last summer and it was supposed to be a little change in between of longer training periods and since I'm only focusing on Lead, there's still some time until the season properly starts! And I'm also doing a few off-the-wall exercises here.

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Keenan Takahashi did the FA of Ego Death (8C) last September a couple of months after he did his first 8C+. "Immediately upon walking up to it, I knew it was something special if it was possible. It’s the sort of thing I’ve dreamed of since I started climbing, steep compression, at my limit, decentl…

Marie Dorsaz, 39, does Master of Pogs (8A)

Marie Dorsaz has done Master of Pogs 8A in La Balmaz. The 39-year-old started climbing at age 22 and sent her first 8A, out of seven, at 34 and first 8A+ two years later.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The boulder was opened as an 8B by Fred Nicole in 1996, but since then, several holds have broken, making the line easier. I tried this line a few years ago but I wasn’t strong enough for this powerful boulder. Two weeks ago, I decided to try it again, thinking that, maybe, I got stronger over the years. And, to my surprise, I got all the moves quickly in the first session, and sent it a few days later. I’m happy to see that at nearly 40 years old (I’ll be 40 in March), I can still make progress.

What does a typical climbing week look like for you?
My partner Theo and I have our own moonboard at home, so our training is mainly done using this tool. And when I’m not working, I climb outside whenever I can, but also in the gym for fun.

What is coming up next?
Of course I’d like to progress further and why not do an 8B boulder. I’ve already tried Tronic summer (8B) in Valais, where I live, and it suits me pretty well, so I’m going to try it again this summer. Maybe it’ll take me a few years to send it and I’ll do my first 8B boulder when I’m 45, who knows? :)

Adam Ondra ticks Bon Voyage (9a) trad

Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done the second ascent of James Pearson’s masterpiece Bon Voyage (9a) trad in Annot, after trying it for three days. (c) Petr Chodura

It is hands down one of the best routes I have ever climbed, and it is a true miracle that there are just enough holds to make it climbable and enough gear to make runout, but safe.”

Pearson did not suggest a grade but Ondra says he thinks it could be a solid 9a if bolted and placing gear makes it a little bit more difficult. In other words, Bon Voyage might be the hardest trad climb in the world. Noteworthy is also that Ondra has made the hardest grade in all disciplines and styles except for his 8C+ boulder; 9c, 9a+ flash, 9a onsight, 8B+ flash, 9a MP and 9a trad.

Martina Demmel does Combifetis (8c)

Martina Demmel has ticked Combifetis (8c) in Margalef. In total, the 22-year-old has now done 53 routes 8c to 9a.

Can you tell us more about the trip and doing Combifetis?
I didn't know what to expect before going into this trip because it feels like I have a completely different relation to climbing now compared to the last longer rock climbing trip [I did]. Starting it off right away with a route which is definitely out of my comfort zone was also a completely new approach & experience not only because I still had a big lack of endurance for sth longer than gym routes and adapting to this pockety style is still a painful process.

I'm here with my best friend Vera who surprised herself with her hardest onsight yet which is why we couldn't stop smiling! I'm often more happy for my friends successes than my own and this helped me focusing on the joy for giving a try myself in Combifetis😁💃! The nervousness was soon forgotten as there's no time to think or chalk during the whole loop around Fustigator. The deep pump even made me skip 2 draws before clipping the chains 4th try.

What about competitions 2024?
My main focus is on preparing for the Lead Worldcups and I'm trying my best to get selected to compete at all of them which is harder this year because we've only got 3 starting places. So there are only a few short windows for rock climbing during the year🙃🌞.

Adam Ondra gets back to onsighting

Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he was planning to trad climb in Annot but due to rain he went to Gorges du Loup and managed to send Inga 8c+/9a. The next day it was time for Buoux where he onsighted Le brillant saoul (8c) and Finement con (8b+). (c) Petr Chodura

The 30-year-old is approaching 100 onsights of routes graded 8c to 9a. No other climber has onsighted more than a dozen grade 8c and harder. Ondra has also frequently downgraded his onsights. He would have well over 200 routes 8b+ and harder registered as onsights were it not for his downgrading.