Alex Barrows ticks Fabela pa la Enmienda (9a)
Alex Barrows has done Fabela pa la enmienda (9a) in Santa Linya after projecting it for some 12 sessions during three weeks. "When I first went to Santa Linya I thought climbing the whole way out of the steep part of the cave looked like one of the coolest bits of sport climbing going. That was 13 years ago (god I feel old)... Back then there was no chance of me doing it - my hardest route was 8a+ and the easiest way out of the steep part was 8c+.
The last few years I've mostly been psyched for onsighting when we've been at long Euro crags, but this year I thought it would be cool to go back and try Fabela pa la Enmienda, a 9a coming all the way out of the steepness. Maybe by now I'd be strong enough, fit enough, or at least have amassed a large enough collection of kneepads...?" (c) Ella Rusell
A couple of days later, he sent Rollito Sharma extension pa la Enmienda in the big cave. "Brilliant last day pump out. 3rd best line in the cave for me, after Neanderthal and Remeneo-Enmienda."
What is next?
Now we have to go home, unfortunately, so it depends on the weather in the UK! I have two projects at Kilnsey I'd like to try this summer if they're dry, though I think one might be too hard for me and the other needs quite a bit of loose rock removal so it's hard to know how they'll go!
by Jens Larssen, Editor-in-Chief
Eva Hammelmüller does Pungitopo (8c+)
Eva Hammelmüller has done Pungitopo (8c+) in Arco. During the last two months, the Austrian has sent 15 routes 8a and harder out of which half onsight or flash. In the 8a ranking game, the 22-year-old is #2. (c) Felix Mast
Can you tell us more about the quick double send of the route?
So happy I could tick this beautiful route after struggling really much with one move and a nasty cut in my last sessions! After the send, we decided to film the whole route, so I tried it again - and found myself on top of the route a second time! I have never re-climbed a route as hard as this before, especially not within an hour :D
by Jens Larssen, Editor-in-Chief
Water World 9a onsight by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra onsighted Water world (9a) in Osp/Misja Pec, last November."Yees, very proud to onsight it. Possibly not the hardest 9a especially with kneepads, but not a very obvious one to onsight. Super happy."
Will Bosi streaming 3rd session on Burden of Dreams 9A
William Bosi has made very good progress on Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams 9A, in his first two sessions. Let's see if he continues trying the new beta he found. Here is the live-streaming link.
Jana Švecová does all moves on Terranova (8C+) in just two sessions
William Bosi just recently said that he felt that Adam Ondra's Terranova (8C+) was as hard as Burden of Dreams 9A. Now, Jana Švecová (Vincourková) has dropped a video where she does all moves on Terranova in just two sessions, by coming up with new beta.
Schubert tries Bouin's DNA (9c)
Jakob, you recently took a short trip to what is likely to be the world’s second-ever 9c route. How much could you take away from DNA, the route freed by Seb Bouin in the Verdon Gorge in the south of France? Last November I went for a very short trip to Verdon. I took the 10 hour drive just because…
Bosi is live-streaming BoD 9A again
William Bosi is up in Finland live-streaming his second session on Burden of Dreams 9A. The temperature is -3, icicles are visible, and there is a clear blue sky and he is making good progress. Will says that the first individual move might be 8B but skipping that, doing kind of a stand start, it co…
Matt Segall sends Kryptonite, 9a
Matt Segal, world-class trad and big wall climber, has done Kryptonite (9a) at The Fortress. He first tried it in 2003 and then started working on it last year. Matt took a little time to answer a few questions we had. So basically, you came back 19 years later and started to project Kryptonite as …
Good progress for Will Bosi on Burden of Dreams 9A
William Bosi has been doing an Insta livestreaming this morning trying Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams 9A in Finland. When he did his flash attempt he had some 50 viewers but in the end, there were 1 500 watching his first working session. As a great surprise for him, he did the first crux move…