Five males topped all five boulders in the SLC qualification, out of which three from Japan. Kokoro Fujii and Tomoa Narasaki, were the best, using only seven respectively eight attempts. Only five of the Olympians made it to the Top-20 semi-final. 42, out of the 54 participants made at least two tops. Adam Ondra did not start as he reported on Insta that he had a bad shoulder from last weekend. Complete results
Among the female, Janja Garnbret won the qualification with five tops in six attempts followed by Miho Nonaka, Natalia Grossman and Futaba Ito also doing all five boulders. In total, seven Olympians made it to the semi-final and they were all Top-14. Complete results
The semi-finals are live-streamed and starts 18.55 Euro Time. (c) Vladek Zumr
Leonardo Veddriq from Indonesia won the Speed final where he also set a new world record at 5.208. Runner up was his teammate Kiromal Katibin, who had made two new world records in the qualifications. "I’m very happy today for this gold medal and for breaking the world record,” said Leonardo right after the final. “It’s been amazing to compete alongside my teammate. We didn’t come here for the victory, we came here to break records." (c) Daniel Gajda/IFSC
Among the female, Olympian Aleksandra Miroslaw won and her fastest time was 7.20 from the qualification. The big sensation was that Miho Nonaka got the bronze and her best time was 8.20. Complete results. Full report from IFSC.
Jana Vincourkova has done her fourth 8A+ during the last six weeks, Nataša in Babí lom. It is an 8A+ roof she made the FA of last month and this times she did it backwards, video. Noteworthy is that Jana restarted climbing 2.5 years ago after having taken a two years break. In the 8a ranking game, she is #6 after four girls from the USA and Oriane Bertone from France.
"It all started when my boyfriend wanted to repeat Izabela 8A+ which I made the FA of last month. I was sitting under the crag and watching him climb. Then he said that I could try to climb Izabela backwards to kill some time while I was waiting and I was like „Noo, it would be the same boulder, same moves..“ But later I tried it anyway and find out it's really hard and definitely much harder for me than Izabela. So I started to climb but wasn't able to do all the moves in a row and so the projecting began. It took me two long climbing days to sent this boulder and I have to say that the moves are so different and the whole problem takes much more endurance than Izabela. I called the boulder Nataša because I am very bad at naming new boulders so I just looked into the calendar whose name day was that day and it was Nataša. It's the same story with Izabela."
Brooke Raboutou, who was #3 in Salt Lake City, excels also outdoors by flashing her first 8A+, Euro Trash in Little Cottonwood Canyon (UT). "So psyched!! Still riding the high from the World Cup final and couldn’t resist climbing on what was supposed to be a rest day. Oops haha. So psyched to flash it!"
Later she did her seventh 8B during the last year, Euro Roof Low Low. "After the flash of the 12 I went for this one! Happy to also put it down in about 4 more tries! Great day with a fun group! Comps are so fun but outdoors...❤️"
In the 8a ranking game, the 20-year-old Olympian is #2. On Friday, she will compete in Speed in Salt Lake City and then on Saturday, there is a new Bouldering World Cup coming up. (c) Daniel Gajda
Giuliano Cameroni has done his fourth 8C+, Off the Wagon Sit in Valle Bavona, after some 80 sessions during six years. "Stand start from the ground from the same hold as the sit from the wagon. The difficulty doesn’t change but this way the line is nicer and more logical." In practice, he actually moved the wagon aside.
On Insta he gives the full great story how much the mental state impacts your climbing. Here is part of the lessons learnt. (c) Rainer Eder
"The day of the send, a sudden change happened: I was sitting underneath as always when I realized that I had a choice between having fun or desperately trying again. This realization put me in a great state of flow free of negative vibes and fear of failing. Right after I missed the final jug, which was my highpoint, and instead of getting mad I started laughing. I knew I was approaching the boulder the right way, so I stayed calm and happy. The next try I climbed it. Everything connected and all of a sudden I was standing on the top. A great sense of joy pervaded me and I remember wondering how it could happen so effortlessly when I had tried it for so long."
So what is next?
Next is La Force Tranquille, The Understanding and Hazel grace sit.
The Swizz is taking about two 8C's and doing the Sit FA of an 8B+ stand start. Previously, he has done eight 8C and harder FA's.
Mathieu Pauwels has done his fourth 9a, Coup d’état in fleron. "It is a route equipped by my friend Micha "The machine" Simon Lorenzi made the first ascent of the route last year and "the second machine" Thomas Salakenos the 2nd a few months ago. Otherwise, it is a short resistance type because there are only +/- 18 movements. I did the route fairly quickly in 4 working sessions. In any case, it is a unique route in Belgium and essential."
What is next?
I have another 9a project and I am trying a possible 9a+/b. My two projects are located at a small cliff called Le Trou Margritte. The first plan is to try to do an old project bolted by Nicolas Favresse which should be 9a. And then try a line that has never been done as well which would be around 8c/+. If I chain this line I will try to add a new start via another route 8c/+ route. The whole line must be 9a+/b? For me, this is finally the entrance to a new world.
Paul Robinson, who is 110 days post-surgery, has done two 8B+', Dictator and Little Richard in Camp Dick. The 33-year-old has done 1000+ boulders 8A and harder, which is the most in the world.
"I had my discs c4/5 and c5/6 replaced. I think the reason that I had to get the surgery was partly due to my genetics as well as taking 23 years of falls from bouldering. I did the surgery because I love pushing myself in climbing. I love trying to push myself to climb some of the hardest boulders in the world and if I did not get the surgery I would never be able to climb that hard again." More info on his Insta
Adam Ondra, who won the first Boulder World Cup 2021, was #1 also in Salt Lake City last weekend and here is his press release as well as his answers to two follow up questions from 8a. (c) Christian Adam
"I felt quite nervous in the qualifying and semi-final rounds. The style of boulders was a bit random - when a person made one mistake or did not think of the right method, he lost some time and then he could not finish the boulder problem," says Czech climber.
The finals followed the very same day and this time, the “final six” consisted of five Europeans and one Japanese. Ondra was the only one who managed to finish all four final boulders. He enjoyed the very friendly atmosphere in isolation and the amazing support of 3,000 spectators. "I think this feeling is kind of rare for both competitors and spectators and we all enjoyed it," smiles the Czech Olympian nominated for Tokyo.
Ondra himself admitted that this time he needed a little bit of luck. The style of American boulders was a lot about thinking: "During the whole race the boulders were quite technical, the profiles were not very overhanging and rather than strength or technique or agility it was more about finding the simplest possible way," comments Ondra, who will be competing at another World Cup competition in Salt Lake City next week, also with the Japanese Tomoa Narasaki.
How did you prepare yourself for SLC in terms of competition simulations, technical and physical training?
I definitely did not expect that boulder problems (especially in US) would be that technical and requiring very little physical power except for B2 in qualifiers and B3 in semifinals. The trend of the last two or three years was obvious - just technical and coordinative skills are not enough, you need to be strong as well. So I prepared myself for both - doing simulations on technical and coordination boulders in Hangar gym in Brno, as well as climbing a lot on spray doing more basic moves, mostly on slopers, but mixing up some crimps as well.
How do you deal with the mental pressure in the isolation in between boulders when you hear and notice other send or struggle?
There is no way how to avoid hearing the crowd, so you just have to deal with it. In the semifinals and qualifications I just stay focused even in the breaks between the problems, and try to focus on myself and not on the others. There are longer breaks in between final problems, so in the finals some distractions are welcome, a few minutes before the actual climbing are enough to recompose myself back into the fighting mode.
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
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