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8c+ (9a) by Jonathan Siegrist

Jonathan Siegrist reports that he has done the first repeat of Daniel Woods' Mission Impossible in Clear Creek Canyon. " So I suppose it's 14c (8c+)? or wicked hard burly Colorado 14b (8c)? Whatever, who really cares? It's a cool route, and a great addition to the front range on Jay and Daniel's part. Nice work fellas!

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Male Lead dominated by USA and Japan

Male Lead dominated by USA and Japan

In the male Lead ranking of 2018, Sean Bailey was #18 and the highest ranked from the USA. The second highest was #43. In 2019, Sean had advanced to #9 and Jess…

Garnbret and Grupper win the semi in Villars

Janja Garnbret was the only athlete to top the semifinal route in Villars. Runner-up was Chaehyun Seo and the third was Brooke Raboutou, which also was the final ranking in Innsbruck last weekend. Among the male, Jesse Grupper got the highest ahead of Colin Duffy. Interestingly, Team Japan got four …

5.09 and 5.04 by Kiromal Katibin

In the Villar Speed qualification, Kiromal Katibin from Indonesia set two World Records. In his first run, he did 5.09 and then 5.04 in his second race, video. Runner-up was Long Cao from China with 5.22. Besides the several World Records in 2022, the level has been pushed significantly and 5.58 was…

Michaela Kiersch leads the current 12-month female combined ranking

Michaela Kiersch leads the current 12-month female combined ranking

Over the last 12 months, Michaela Kiersch has sent two 8B+ boulders and one 9a route. There might be some unreported ascents out there from other female climber…

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38 % Shoe Tax in USA in 2013

Denver Post reports that the prices of non-USA produced footwear might increase with 38 % due to a new tax from 2013. In the short run the consumer prices will most likely not be affected directely as the retailer prices have already been set.

9a by Akito Matsushima

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9a by Akito Matsushima

Akito Matsushima has done Open up your mind direct, 9a in Santa Linya. "It took four days about ten tries to make it......so nice condition nice weather." The Japanese has previously done two 9a, Kinematix and Fuck the system. In the last ten Lead World Cups, his worst result was #16. In the Boulder WC 2007, Akito was #4.

Sean McColl - La Sportiva Legend 2012

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Sean McColl - La Sportiva Legend 2012

SVTPlay will cover the La Sportiva Legends in Stockholm. Yesterday, the athletes worked the problems for two hours, and today they will try to take them down. In a perfect show, Sean McColl handled the pressure being the last out and topped out in his second try winning ahead of Dima Sharafutdinov. If he would have done it on his third try, Dima would have won. #3 Jakob Schubert, #4 GG Mondet and #5 Adam Ondra. It should be noted that in the final result, it said GG was #3 but that must have been a bug in the scoring system. In April there we will a Legends only comp for the female. Picture: Jakob Schubert, Copyright: Inka Matoušková

8c+ by Hannah Midtbø

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8c+ by Hannah Midtbø

Hannah Midtbø has done her first 8c+, La Novena Puerta in Santa Linya. Last winter she did three 8c's in the possibly greatest cave in the world. "Last season when I first tried this route I just remember getting so spanked, every individual move felt so hard... Very cool to feel progression and see how the body adapts after working it... and then actually sending it, feels so good:) amazing route, one of the best in Santa Linya. A real joy to climb." (c) Henning Wang In the last Lead WC, her brother Magnus was #3. Hannah has almost stopped but this year she was #16 in the Boulder World Championship. Four years ago, when she was 18 she was 3 in the European Championship.

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First 9a by Yamada Wataru

Yamada Wataru has done his first or second 9a, Fabela pa la Enmienda in Santa Linya. "The grand sum of this three months trip in Europe!" Earlier this year the 162 cm Japanese did a Yuji Hirayama 9a giving it a personal grade of 8c+.

Nalle Hukkataival does a Graham 8C

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Nalle Hukkataival does a Graham 8C

Nalle Hukkataival blogs about having repeated Dave Graham's, 8C From Dirt Grows The Flowers in Chironico. The crux is the mantle where he ended up using his forehead to help push through. There is also a left variant which Nalle thinks is easier, althoug it has the same 8C grade. "While the left variant is the easiest way up, and thus maybe more logical, Dave’s original problem takes the straightest line up and finishes with one of the coolest and most complicated mantles I’ve ever done!

La Rambla, 9a+, by Sachi Amma

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La Rambla, 9a+, by Sachi Amma

The Lead World Cup 2012 winner, Sachi Amma has climbed La Rambla, 9a+, in Siurana which took him seven tries over five days. The last two years, when he was #3 and #5 in the Lead WC, he finished the season in a similar fashion by sending 9a+ routes Papichulo and Pachamama, the latter being the only repeat of this extremely hard Chris Sharma line. Sachi's next objective is to try another Siurana testpiece: Golpe de Estado (9b).