EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Male Lead dominated by USA and Japan

Male Lead dominated by USA and Japan

In the male Lead ranking of 2018, Sean Bailey was #18 and the highest ranked from the USA. The second highest was #43. In 2019, Sean had advanced to #9 and Jess…

Garnbret and Grupper win the semi in Villars

Janja Garnbret was the only athlete to top the semifinal route in Villars. Runner-up was Chaehyun Seo and the third was Brooke Raboutou, which also was the final ranking in Innsbruck last weekend. Among the male, Jesse Grupper got the highest ahead of Colin Duffy. Interestingly, Team Japan got four …

5.09 and 5.04 by Kiromal Katibin

In the Villar Speed qualification, Kiromal Katibin from Indonesia set two World Records. In his first run, he did 5.09 and then 5.04 in his second race, video. Runner-up was Long Cao from China with 5.22. Besides the several World Records in 2022, the level has been pushed significantly and 5.58 was…

Michaela Kiersch leads the current 12-month female combined ranking

Michaela Kiersch leads the current 12-month female combined ranking

Over the last 12 months, Michaela Kiersch has sent two 8B+ boulders and one 9a route. There might be some unreported ascents out there from other female climber…

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8A+ by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has had some great few days in Joe's Valley, having done three 8A's and yesterday she did Dark Matters, 8A+ in Huntington Canyon. "Beautiful beautiful sandstone wall. Really nice moves too.

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Adam Ondra's RRG write up

La Sportiva presents Adam Ondra's own words from his amazing trip to Red River Gorge where he, based on his personal down gradings, flashed a 9a and onsighted two 8c+ etc.

8c by Ruben Firnenburg (15)

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8c by Ruben Firnenburg (15)

Ruben Firnenburg who won the Euro Youth Cup in Slovenia the last weekend, as well as overall, has spent the last week in Misja Pec where he did Strelovod, 8c. Also Jakob Heber Norum (16) has done the 8c. Ruben: "The Conditions were pretty bad and it was rainy and about 5 °C . It became a little fight so we were really glad sending the nice line after that week and it was good fun! Especially for Jakob the Route was a new success as his first 8c!" (c) Martin Pötter

Blood of a Young Wolf 8B+ 2nd Ascent for Sam Davis

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Blood of a Young Wolf 8B+ 2nd Ascent for Sam Davis

El Paso local Sam Davis has made the second ascent of Dave Graham's Blood of a Young Wolf 8B+ in Hueco Tanks. The problem was a long-time project until Graham finished it off last March. This is Davis' second 8B+, after his send of Esperanza in January. Davis is also a fantastic photographer and has released a book of Hueco images including scenery, wildlife, portraits, and climbing shots. Photo Davis on Young Wolf (c) Wagon Wheel Co-Opt.