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56 pages Digital Mag free by DPM

Dead Point Magazine presents their latest issue free online including very nice interviews with Adam Ondra and Ashima Shiraishi etc.

Kalymnos bolting event in 2013

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Kalymnos bolting event in 2013

Part of the rapid success for Kalymnos was that the equippers did get free bolts during the first years. There are currently some 2 500 routes on the island and during the last years more than 200 new routes have been added yearly but they have been paid by the bolters themselves. Climbkalymnos reports that Sachsenheim will organize a bolt event between October 26th to November 9th were they will give out free bolts and arrange for discounted accommodation, food and scooters. (c) Nikolaos Smalios Climb Kalymnos, the topo producer, will during the same event provide new bolts for the ones that need to be rebolted.

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Male Lead dominated by USA and Japan

Male Lead dominated by USA and Japan

In the male Lead ranking of 2018, Sean Bailey was #18 and the highest ranked from the USA. The second highest was #43. In 2019, Sean had advanced to #9 and Jess…

Garnbret and Grupper win the semi in Villars

Janja Garnbret was the only athlete to top the semifinal route in Villars. Runner-up was Chaehyun Seo and the third was Brooke Raboutou, which also was the final ranking in Innsbruck last weekend. Among the male, Jesse Grupper got the highest ahead of Colin Duffy. Interestingly, Team Japan got four …

5.09 and 5.04 by Kiromal Katibin

In the Villar Speed qualification, Kiromal Katibin from Indonesia set two World Records. In his first run, he did 5.09 and then 5.04 in his second race, video. Runner-up was Long Cao from China with 5.22. Besides the several World Records in 2022, the level has been pushed significantly and 5.58 was…

Michaela Kiersch leads the current 12-month female combined ranking

Michaela Kiersch leads the current 12-month female combined ranking

Over the last 12 months, Michaela Kiersch has sent two 8B+ boulders and one 9a route. There might be some unreported ascents out there from other female climber…

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30 unpublished 8B and harder by Klem Loskot

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30 unpublished 8B and harder by Klem Loskot

Klem Loskot (38) is a pioneer who has established famous FA's around the world since the mid 90-ies. The last three years he has been working under cover putting up 30 boulders 8B - 8C. "All the new stuff is south of Salzburg, in the northern Alpine foothills, very close to my home, spread out on several small cliffs, boulders and caves, sometimes just with 2-3 problem each place. It's all Limestone, as the norther Prealps in this region are Limestone. Most is not what i always expected, crimpy and sharp, but solide, nice to climb on full body style. Dessertfox (8C see picture) is on a wave like shaped, almost 45° overhanging 5 meter wall. Easy first sit start move on good holds and then flows into the hardest move, the shoulder-breaker." The full list is presented as a comment.

8A+ and many 8A for Team ABC in Hueco!

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8A+ and many 8A for Team ABC in Hueco!

According to the Team ABC Boulder Blog, the kids of Elite Team ABC had a fantastic trip that included 7C+ and 8A sends for many members of this team, all of whom are in their teens. Highlights included Barefoot on Sacred Ground 8A+ for Shawn Raboutou (14), Crimping Christ on the Cross 7C+ and Sunshine 8A on the same day for Brooke Raboutou (11), Sunshine 8A for Margo Hayes (14), three 8As for Michael O'Rourke (18) and stefan lavender (16) and Eckstein 7C+ for their coach, Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou (49). To see the full list of sends from the team and photos of each athlete, check out this post on the blog. Photo (c) Team ABC Boulder

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