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EDITORIAL

by Jens Larssen, Editor-in-Chief

Japan and France lead the Boulder WC in the men's division

Japan and France lead the Boulder WC in the men's division

It's no secret that Japan has dominated the Boulder World Cup for many years. Last year, they took all three overall podiums and had eight men in the Top-20. Af…

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Ryuichi Murai. The ultimate weekend warrior.

Ryuichi Murai is a former competition climber who was #5 in a World Cup in 2018. The 28-year-old has done 20 boulders 8C or 8C+ and nowadays he considers himself a weekend warrior who always climbs alone. In February he did Sleepwalker (8C+) after projecting it for eight days, and he explained how h…

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Leo Skinner in South Wales up to 8B

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How to train for your next trip

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Trofeo dell'Adriatico (9a+) by Alex Ventajas

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Philipp Geisenhoff does Im Reich des Shogun (9a)

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TNF Unearthed - Daniel Woods

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8B+ FA by Daniel Woods again

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8B+ FA by Daniel Woods again

Daniel Woods has openend The Wheel of Chaos in RMNP which was his 25th 8B+ and harder FA and in total he has done 65. The 24 year old leads the ranking game which he has done more or less for six straight years. (c) Cam Maier - Bearcam media/Island "The power endurance test piece of the park. Sits in upper upper chaos at 10,600 feet, 4 mile hike in, and 23 moves long. 3 separate boulders complete the line. Dave, Nalle, Cam, Chad, Diego, and myself prepped the boulder and worked out the sections. The climbing style is crazy with both physical and technical movement. One of my all time favorite lines in RMNP.

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Four 8A by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk in Rocklands

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Four 8A by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk in Rocklands

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has during two weeks in Rocklands, done four 8A's and flashed Taboo 7C. In the Boulder WC 2013, her worst result out of seven events were #14. TCA has just published a full portrait interview. Mina's website with a report from Squamish which she visited some weeks ago.

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Head First - With Joe Kinder

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Kalymnos from the AIR

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8B by Mirko Caballero (12) & Ashima Shiraishi (12)

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8B by Mirko Caballero (12) & Ashima Shiraishi (12)

Mirko Caballero and Ashima Shiraishi have done One Summer in Paradise 8B in Magic Wood. They also both did 8A+ and 8A and Mirko plans to climb at least four times as many 7's as 8's. In the great picture by Rainer Eder, Mirko is climbing Unendliche Geschichte II 8A. Mirko is on a 10 weeks summertrip in Europe. "We had a lot of fun climbing with the Raboutou and Ruana's. Brooke also sent Pura Vida, and Shawn also did Never Ending Story 1 & 2. They were really fun to climb with and there were a bunch of young guys from Switzerland, including Sam Ometz and Guiliano Camaroni. Sam and Guiliano are really strong!" Ashima, 12 years old, is the only female who has done both 8B (boulder) and 8c+ (route); She's climbed both grades twice.

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Bellavista 8c MP by Sasha Digiulian

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Bellavista 8c MP by Sasha Digiulian

Sasha Digiulian reports on Instagram that she has done Alex Huber's famous multi-pitch Bellavista on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Italian Dolomites which he put up in 2001. The ten pitches are graded; 7b, 6c, 6a+, 7a+, 7b, 8c, 8a, 7a, 6c, 6b. "After climbing through a big storm for the final pitches, and spending a bitter cold, wet night at the top of Tre Cime Oeste, I'm down and happy to report the First Female ascent of Bellavista, 8c, a 2-year dream of mine to climb!" Sasha climbed the route together with Edu Marin.

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Paige Claassen doing Rolihlahla 8b (c)

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