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9a and inspirational blog by Joe Kinder

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9a and inspirational blog by Joe Kinder

Joe Kinder has done Analogica Natural Left, 9a in Santa Linya which is his favourite crag and he will stay in the area also making more videos until May. Updated blog with nice pictures and even som mental training through his life style approach. "Falling 5 times at the last move wasn't so cool as I usually avoid routes like that... but hey... good for "training right"? An old line bolted by Dani and Victor that I put an anchor on, added a bolt, and cleaned. Such a better ending as it goes to the top. For me this is the way, but hey.... gotta give respect to the initial line (odd anchor) right? Super stoked... Enmienda next???? YES!!!!!!!!!! (c) Carlos Perez

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Slovenia #1 in ECH in Munich

Slovenia, a country with just over 2 million inhabitants, was overall the best performing nation at the European Championship in Munich. Besides Janja Garnbret’s two gold medals, they had four more finalists out of which Luka Potocar placed second. Runner-up was France with five finalists including …

Men Top-8 into the Combined final

Men Top-8 into the Combined final

The male Combined finals will start on Thursday at 15.00 with Boulder followed by Lead at 17.00. (c) Petr Chodura 1. Adam Ondra CZE 690 + 1 000 = 1 690 2. Luka…

Female Top-8 Combined on Wednesday

Female Top-8 Combined on Wednesday

Based on the Combined "World Cup" points, the Top-8 females will compete in the new (Olympic) Combined format on Wednesday. If you have not participated in both…

Uznik wins over Avezou with 0.1 points

Uznik wins over Avezou with 0.1 points

Nicolai Uznik won by doing two boulders in six attempts out of which one flash. This was just one attempt less than Sam Avezou. In the live streaming they give …

Janja superior once again

Janja superior once again

Janja Garnbret climbed with ease passing Jessica Pilz high point. The biggest drama was actually Janja’s big whipper partly upside down, having done a big diago…

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Fred Beckey (90) follows a 3-pitch in USA

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Fred Beckey (90) follows a 3-pitch in USA

Richard Shore reports on Mountainproject with great pictures that 90 year old Fred Beckey followed the 3-pitch Tranquility on The Moosedog Tower in Indian Cove, Joshua Tree. Have you ever heard of a 91 year old having tied in?

8A (7C+) by Margo Hayes (14)

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8A (7C+) by Margo Hayes (14)

Margo Hayes has done Flower Power, 8A (7C+) in Hueco Tanks which was her third of the grade. The 14 year old is also a very tallented route climber having done an 8b last summer. The picture is from her send of Sunshine, 8A in Hueco Tanks which she did two months ago. Margo is since four years part of the Robyn Erbesfield ABC Kids program.

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The Game, 8C by Jon Cardwell

Jon Cardwell has done his first 8C and the third ascent of Daniel Woods' The Game in Boulder Canyon. His first 8B+ was Dreamtime which he did 2007 being 18 years old and that year he also did his first 8c+. Last autumn, Jon also showed being in his best endurance shape in his life doing two 9a's in Red River Gorge and onsights up to 8b+ and he is #4 in the 8a route game. Video on the Island

Kruder's story of the Two Worlds

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Kruder's story of the Two Worlds

Jernej Kruder has written a blog about his first 8C ascent, The Story of Two Worlds. A video is coming out soon. How did you start it? The same as Graham, normal sit start with ass on the ground. I do not know what is the big deal of it anyway. I do not think that the different starts of Robinson and Koyamada change the grade. In the future, it would be nice to see people climb it like Dave did... natural sit start.

8C also by Dave Graham

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8C also by Dave Graham

Dave Graham has done the second ascent of Paul Robinson's Meadowlark Lemon, 8C in Red Rocks which Paul thoughts was one of his best and hardest boulders in his life. The name comes from a basket ball player in Harlem Globetrotters and it finishes with a slam dunk move. Graham: "Meadowlark Lemon 8C was established by Paul Robinson, and its an incredible addition to our world of hard boulders! The rig is super proud; aesthetic, tall, and blank looking, I’m always really impressed when I stand undermeath it. After 6 days of battling with the strange valley conditions, learning the body positions, and gaining the snap necessary to execute the finicly toe hook lurp move, I managed to do it second try today."Alex Kahn has taken the picture of Pauls FA.