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Kruder's story of the Two Worlds

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Kruder's story of the Two Worlds

Jernej Kruder has written a blog about his first 8C ascent, The Story of Two Worlds. A video is coming out soon. How did you start it? The same as Graham, normal sit start with ass on the ground. I do not know what is the big deal of it anyway. I do not think that the different starts of Robinson and Koyamada change the grade. In the future, it would be nice to see people climb it like Dave did... natural sit start.

8C also by Dave Graham

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8C also by Dave Graham

Dave Graham has done the second ascent of Paul Robinson's Meadowlark Lemon, 8C in Red Rocks which Paul thoughts was one of his best and hardest boulders in his life. The name comes from a basket ball player in Harlem Globetrotters and it finishes with a slam dunk move. Graham: "Meadowlark Lemon 8C was established by Paul Robinson, and its an incredible addition to our world of hard boulders! The rig is super proud; aesthetic, tall, and blank looking, I’m always really impressed when I stand undermeath it. After 6 days of battling with the strange valley conditions, learning the body positions, and gaining the snap necessary to execute the finicly toe hook lurp move, I managed to do it second try today."Alex Kahn has taken the picture of Pauls FA.

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by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


New Combined format to be tested in ECH Munich

The European Championships, in Munich, starts on 11/8 and finishes on 17-18/8 with the Combined final events. The Combined qualification rankings are based on (World Cup) points gained in the Lead and Boulder events at the beginning of the Championships. In other words, 850 points might be needed to…

Outsiders in Euro Champ in Munich

The European Championship in Munich starts 11/8 and some will compete for four days straight doing three rounds in Boulder and Lead respectively. This means that the athletes only doing one discipline have an advantage and that goes especially for the male athletes only doing Lead and the female ath…

10 nations share the 18 medals in Graz

The third and final day of the Euro Youth Championship in Graz started with the semifinal for the oldest juniors. Surprisingly, both the boys and the girls competed on almost identical boulders as the final Youth A boulders from yesterday. Several coaches were upset as this is against the onsight fo…

Korosec and Mabboni Youth A winners in Graz

On the second day of the European Youth Championship in Graz, Allesia Mabboni from Italy won Youth A making two tops and four zones (24). Runner-up was Iziar Martinez from Spain who flashed the two boulders which Allesia could not do but she could only make three zones. The Spaniard was #15 in the …

Very hard boulders in ECH - Graz

The European Youth Championship in Bouldering started today in Graz. Unfortunately, the boulders were very hard and both climbers and coaches were upset. The Norweigian Head Coach, Reino "Nicki" Horak said that for the girls, it was the worst and hardest setting he has ever seen. "It was much worse …

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Witness the Fitness, 8C 2013 by Daniel Woods

Daniel Woods has done the the third ascent of Chris Sharma's classic Witness the Fitness, 8C in Arkansas. Fred Nicole did the second ascent in 2006 despite several broken holds and since than more holds have broken."In its original state, I would guess it would be hard 8B, when Fred did it 8B+, and now it is 8C." Sharma said some years ago that it was the hardest and by far the coolest line he has seen in his life. Also Jimmy Webb and Paul Robinson came close to sending it and Paul reports. "It was amazing to watch. In it's current state it is 8A+ to 8B to a 7B+ finish. The day before Paul had done the first repeat of Dave Graham's Wood grain grippin' also after broken hold that made it to go from soft to hard 8B+.

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7C+ flash and 8A by Megan Mascarenas (15)

Megan Mascarenas has flashed Scare Tactics, 7C+ in Red Rocks. The 15 year old who started climbing 12 years ago has also done her fourth 8A by Show of Hands in Moe's Valley.

Two 8b+ OS by Stefano Ghisolfi (19)

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Two 8b+ OS by Stefano Ghisolfi (19)

Stefano Ghisolfi had a nice day in Montsant where he onsighted two 8b+, L-Mens and Falconetti. Two days previously, he onsighted his first 8b, Photo-Shoot in Margalef. The 19 year old Italian is a succesful competition climber who was #3 in the World Cup in China last year.

8B flash by Alexander Megos (19)

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8B flash by Alexander Megos (19)

Mirko Caballero (11) reports that as he was working Blood Meridian, 8B in Bishop Alexander Megos showed up and flashed it. Last month, he flashed Pure Imagination, 8c+ in Red River Gorge where he also did another five 8c+ and onsighted three 8b+. The German finished school this year and has been on a road trip in USA since the North Face Kalymnos festival where he was #1 in the money competition. In 2009 and 2010, Alexander won eight straight Euro Cups and this year he plans to do so World Cups. (c) Ignacio Sandoval Buron

The Story of 2  Worlds, 8C by  Jernej Kruder

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The Story of 2 Worlds, 8C by Jernej Kruder

Jernej Kruder has done the fourth ascent of Dave Graham's The story of 2 worlds, 8C in Cresciano. It has become maybe the most famous boulder in the world because Dave named it in 2005 as a statement towards the grade inflation, because confusions on how to start it and that it is a very beautiful boulder with an 8B+ stand start. "So fucking happy...had to stay a bit longer here but it was worth it...today was a bit warmer and I think it's better that way." Jernej has previously repeated boulders up to 8B, excluding the stand start, and he has twice been #4 in the boulder World Cup.