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Adam Ondra 9b+ interviews

9b has a long Ondra 9b+ interview. Planetmountain has also the 9b+ interview

Double send by Cartas (8b) and Ondra (9b) again

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Double send by Cartas (8b) and Ondra (9b) again

The day before yesterday Andrea Cartas sent her second 8c with 'Fish Eye' (news and interview in Spanish) and shortly after Adam Ondra put under his belt the FA of 'La Dura Dura', 9b+ (news). Today, they did it again with double send of Marroncita, 8b for her, and the first repeat of Chris Sharma's Fight or Flight, 9b for him at the same crag. The girl from Granada already commented in her scorecard: "Another day with awesome conditions and floating over the tufas. A double send again!!" Pic: Carlos Padilla.

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


The story of Flatanger's pioneers

The story of Flatanger's pioneers

Flatanger is a municipality in Norway with 1 100 inhabitants and also the name of one of the most impressive climbing caves in the world which the locals call, …

Japan adds Lead to their list of team wins.

Janja Garnbret and Luka Potocar both from Slovenia are the overall Lead World Cup winners in 2022. However, the team rankings are as follows: 1. Japan 21 355 2. Slovenia 18 274 3. USA 16 598 4. Germany 9 484 5. Italy 7 947 Complete results

Janja wins her fifth overall Lead WC title

1. Janja Garnet SLO 5 805 2. Chaehyun Seo KOR 4 405 3. Natalia Grossman USA 3 370 4. Laura Rogora ITA 3 345 5. Brooke Raboutou USA 3 250 6. Natsuki Tanii JPN 3 075 7. Mia Krampl SLO 2 385 8. Ryu Nakagawa JPN 2 320 9. Vita Lukan SLO 2 235 0. Jessica Pilz AUT 2 149 Complete result

Garnbret wins by topping out the shared men's route

Garnbret wins by topping out the shared men's route

The route setters decided to let the female and male categories share the same top portion of the Finals route. Unfortunately, no male climbers made it to the t…

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'Fish Eye', 8c by Andrea Cartas + Interview

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'Fish Eye', 8c by Andrea Cartas + Interview

Yesterday, during the after-lunch conversation we received a WhatsApp from Andrea Cartas saying that she was finally able to send her second 8c, after 'White Zombie' last Summer (vídeo and interview in Spanish), with Fish Eye in Oliana, and that at such moment she was just psyched to start watching Ondra's -later successful- try to 'La Dura Dura'. In her scorecard she comments: "Double send together with Adam, the best day with perfect conditions! I did it floating in the warm up!! Yeahhh!!" Later, she adds in Facebook: "Such a honour!! Sending my project (Fish Eye, 8c) and Adam sending the hardest route in the world straightaway! A day not to forget!!!" If you understand the Spanish language, fancy using Google translator and/or just want to enjoy beautiful pictures shot by Carlos Padilla, please have a look at the interview we have just had with her with nice comments about her and Adam's sends, etc.

Also a 9a+ by Adam Ondra

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Also a 9a+ by Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra has added also Power Inverter to his scorecard which he did two weeks ago. It was put up two years ago by Chris Sharma. "First day of the trip, with totally wet upper slab. Made stoked for La Dura dura, felt strong!" Based on his scorecard trend diagram we can see his nice progress over the years and that he has reached a new high score. In total, the just 20 year old has recorded 1 438 ascents and his scorecard has been visited 1.4 million times.

Gui-Gui does 8C again

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Gui-Gui does 8C again

Guillaume Glairon-Mondet has done Trip hop, 8C which is a six move traverse into Hip Hop assis, 8B. "5 session, maybe easy for this grade..." This was Gui-Gui's second 8C the last 30 days. Pictures and more info on his blog Gui-Gui has during the last four years always been Top-7 in the Boulder World Cup and as he is #7 in the 8a ranking game, he is a contendor for being the best boulderer overall.

Chris Sharma comments his 9b FA

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Chris Sharma comments his 9b FA

"Stoking the Fire has so much good climbing on it. Its very athletic and you have to climb very precisely. It seems for every hand movement there are at least two foot moves and many drop knees on small tufas. Ive worked on this on an off for the last several years (there is an old Sterling Ropes video of me working on it from Joe Kinder). The line was bolted by Thomas Mrazek maybe 3-4 years ago. He stopped at a good hold 2/3 of the way up since he was unsure how to finish the route. I later came and finished bolting the upper part of the route but it seemed so hard to imagine linking the whole thing (its probably 9a on top of 9b). For now I chose to go to the top via the upper section of Mercenaris del Pasat (just left of Stoking the Fire) which is maybe just 8a+ or so." (c) Climbers against cancer

Adam Ondra does the FA of La Dura Dura 9b+

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Adam Ondra does the FA of La Dura Dura 9b+

Adam Ondra reports via SMS: "It was 2nd day on, my forearms felt sore in the morning. I was thinking of calling it a rest day... But I was less nervous and battled through the bottom and got very pumped to the 2nd crux, where I didn't fall despite no expectations. Sticking the jug, I felt like having a heart attack but I kept it together. 9b+ it is :)" (c) Manabu Yoneyama - Interview is coming up. La Dura Dura was bolted by Chris Sharma who made it an open project. This was the fifth trip to Oliana for Adam who spent a total of nine weeks on it. In the last two years, Adam climbed four 9b's and the 9b+ Change. The picture includes Andrea Cartas, who sent an 8c.

Diego Montull blogs about Peñoles

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Diego Montull blogs about Peñoles

While waiting for the video recap, Diego Montull has written a blog featuring an extensive recap of his 3 month trip to the Mexican bouldering mecca. He shares interesting thoughts about having other strong climbers in his "garden", and how overwhelming the amount of hard project is. (c) Sandstone Media