EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Luca Bana and the FA of Extrasistole 9a

Luca Bana did the FA of Extrasistole galoppante (9a) in December 2021. "Outstanding project on the 'heart' sector, bolted in 2010 by Yuri parimbelli and remained unclimbed until now. A mix of big exposure, rock quality and savage moves makes it one of the best hard routes of the area!"

Japan, USA and Slovenia dominated the 2022 WC

Here is the Combined national World Cup ranking in 2022. It was more or less the same ranking in 2021, aside from Japan creating an even bigger gap between themselves and the other countries chasing them. The Czech Republic has dropped in ranking due to the absence of Adam Ondra. Remarkably, Sloveni…

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Joe Kinder blogs and an open project again

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Joe Kinder blogs and an open project again

Joe Kinder has written a nice blog with great pictures of Oliana actions also including some night bolting. Joe has put in 15 bolts on a new amazing 40 metres line in Oliana and it is an open project. It seems this is the new nice trend. "It took me a day to bolt and it will surely take me another day to clean it all up. Then one day to try out the move and see if the bolts are correct, so call it a a chunk of work but it is my pleasure. I enjoy the process and it is really easy to bolt at Oliana because there are so many hook placements and features. Plus it isn't crazy steep. It's such a good experience everyone should feel at some point." (c) Colette McInerney

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Best climbing rope - 2013

Based on 1 800 unique votes, Best climbing rope - 2013?, we can see that Sterling has strengthen it's position compared to a similar poll in 2009. 27 % Beal (30% 2009) 25 % Sterling (15) 12 % Mammut (19) 10 % Edelrid (8) 08 % Tendon/Lanex (8) 18 % Other Brands (20)

Carlo Traversi does Meadowlark Lemon, 8C

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Carlo Traversi does Meadowlark Lemon, 8C

Carlo Traversi has done the third ascent of Meadowlark Lemon, 8C in Red Rocks and he goes to #3 in the ranking game. "A 5 star line. Perfect jug start with an intricate, technical, and powerful sequence up a huge arete. I had to adopt a much different and way more powerful sequence through the crux because of my height. Glad it worked out. One of the most impressive boulders I've ever seen. Much respect to Paul Robinson on the first ascent of this one.

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Best Climbing Shoes - 2013

Based on 2 400 unique votes, Best Climbing shoes?, we can see that La Sportiva has strengthen it's role as a market leader compared to the result in 2009 which are shown in brackets. 55 % La Sportiva (47) 23 % Five Ten (31) 08 % Scarpa (4) 06 % Evolve (8) 08 % Other (10)