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8b+ by Brooke Raboutou (10)

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8b+ by Brooke Raboutou (10)

Brooke Raboutou has done her first 8b+, God's Own Stone in the Red River Gorge after five tries. "Super awesome and really fun route." The 10 year old is daughter to Didier, one of the best climbers in the world some 20 years ago who also won a WC and Robyn Erbesfield 4 times WC winners. Brooke is turning 11 next month (two weeks earlier than Tito). Robyn has for some years been running Team ABC and during the last five years she has been training 40 kids (advanced and elite) and they have not seen any injuries beside a sore finger once. (c) Team ABC Boulder

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8b+ by Tito Traversa (10)

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8b+ by Tito Traversa (10)

Tito Traversa has done Sarsifal L2, 8b+ in Tetto di Sarre, which is the combination of Sarre 2000, a traverse to Parsifal, the exit of Parsifal L2. Here is the Video of Sarsifal L1 . (c) Bruno Marchisio What makes the news even more impressive is that Tito is just back from a 10 weeks break due to a inflammation in the heel. Further more, Tito is climbing less than ten times a month. The 8b+ "world record holder" was previously Adam Ondra who did his first when he was 11 years old.

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2o Festival de Escalada do Norte de Minas

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2o Festival de Escalada do Norte de Minas

Vai rolar nos dias 6, 7 e 8 de abril o 2o Festival de Escalada do Norte de Minas, em Montes Claros. O valor da inscrição é de 10 reais. Mais informações em EscaladaMOC.blogspot.com.br.

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8b+ by Tito Traversa (10)

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8b+ by Tito Traversa (10)

Tito Traversa je splezal Sarsifal L2, 8b+ v plezališču Tetto di Sarre. Tukaj je posnetek Sarsifal L1 . (c) Bruno Marchisio Prejšnji rekorder je bil Adam Ondra ki je 8b+ preplezal pri 11 letih.

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First 8c for Monique Forestier (39)

Monique Forestier blogs about her struggle to finally have done the 50 m Fish Eye, 8c in Oliana after 20 days of effort. Monique started to climb when she was 25 and now she is peaking at 39, impressive!

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8a byb Martina Giorello

Martina Giorello has done her first 8a, Super santos in San Vito lo Capo.

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The "-" has been taken out by IFSC

Beside making time count for ties, the second major change in IFSC Rules in Lead 2012, is that the "-" has been taking away. The "-" has been the scoring if a climber touched a hold without establishing contact. One reason for why they have taken it away is that sometimes climbers have just done tactical jumps skipping one or two holds and that the jump also favours climbers with long arms. However, the risk for ties, and making time decide who is the winner, is thus increased as now a move towards the next hold as well as a touch will score the same. Previously, (for the last 20 years?) the guy who touched the hold did get a better scoring compared to the one who just moved towards it.

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