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8C by Rok Klancnik

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8C by Rok Klancnik

Rok Klancnik has done Dave Graham's master piece, From dirt grows the flowers 8C in Chironico, which he put up in 2005. Video from an earlier close call. How much effort did you put in? "I spend quite a long time, not so many tries but took 3 or 4 years. At the start I wasn't sure I could do it, but... Well, I can say good work Dave, and keep up with hard climbs! Some of his lines are really amazing and so is his climbing.

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Garnbret wants strict BMI rules in 2023

In a 40 min interview at the IFSC Climbing Summit, Janja Garnbret was very straightforward about BMI testing. She referred to a survey in Innsbruck where it later was stated that: 16 % of female athletes have no menstruation and 22 % reported that they currently struggle with an eating disorder. …

Schubert and Ondra on Project Big

What does Project Big mean to you? I’d say, Flatanger is the Yosemite of sports climbing. It’s the rock quality, the potential, the number of difficult routes, it’s simply extraordinary. It’s a beautiful place looking over the fjords to the sea, the cave is massive, it’s steep, offers so many hard r…

Janja Garnbret interview

“Everybody wants to have a world champion at 16, and a long career. It’s a marathon, not a sprint, but I’m seeing too much pressure put on younger athletes, and an increasing number of injuries because to this.”"Do we want to raise the next generation of skeletons?"

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First 9a in Portugal by Leopoldo Faria

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First 9a in Portugal by Leopoldo Faria

Leopoldo Faria has done his first 9a, Peixe Porco in Sagres. (c) Ricardo Alves "Really proud to have found this amazing line and having the perseverance to do it! So many attempts over almost two years that it’s hard to have a strong opinion about the grade, especially because I was so close to doing it for so long… maybe soft, maybe hard or maybe 9a+, I really don’t know! Haaaaappy it’s over :))) Nice video

The Big Island 8C by Christopher Schulte

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The Big Island 8C by Christopher Schulte

Christopher Schulte has finished a very succesful trip in Europe by doing his first 8C, The Big Island in Fontainebleau. How long time did it take you and what was most important to to send it? "Lots of time! Like 20 or 30 sessions over 2 trips.. It was very hard for me- such big moves, so stretched! Conditions were really important for me, I work better in very cold weather, like 1 degree. Spending a lot of time on it was important, so I could do every move really well, and then for conditions to be good enough to climb it not so perfectly.

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8b+ and 8c onsights by Klemen Becan

Kleman Becan onsighted yesterday and 8b+ in Cuenca and today an 8c, Totem in Val de cabras. On Facebook Klemen says, "For route Palestina (9a) I would have to train a little more to onsight it. But not a lot :)" Now he is on his way to Albarracin.

Jorg Verhoeven flashes La Proue 8B

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Jorg Verhoeven flashes La Proue 8B

Jorg Verhoeven has done the possibly first flash of Fred Nicole's La Proue 8B in Cresciano. (c) Katharina Saurwein "Wow I can't believe my foot didn't pop. Sometimes luck is all you need." During the last two weeks, the overall Lead WC winner 2008, has done another five 8B's including the FA of Flash Flood in Brione and The Dagger. Video including Katha Saurwein's spectacular flash of Tricky 8A, starts 6.10 min More info at JorgVerhoeven.com

135 8a's in 121 days by Megos in USA

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135 8a's in 121 days by Megos in USA

DPM has the latest update on Alexander Megos' USA trip where he during 121 days did 135 routes and boulders 8a and harder. The 19 year old also tried some trad climbing in Indian Creek saying, “5.10 (6b) was hard, 5.11 (6c+) really hard and 5.12 (7b) mostly impossible.” (c) Ignacio Sandoval Buron