LATEST NEWS

Two 8c's by both Jessica Pilz and Eva Hammelmüller

Monday, 19 October

Two 8c's by both Jessica Pilz and Eva Hammelmüller

Eva Hammelmüller and Jessica Pilz have been on a rock climbing trip in Arco with the Austria national team. Both did Terra Piatta 8c in Mont Colt where Eva also did Zero Tolleranza in Mont Colt. Jessy's second 8c was 5 Uve in Narango.

This were Eva'scomments yesterday, "The training camp with the national team is so much fun, and it is going extraordinarily well! We are already leaving tomorrow, so I am looking forward to climbing as much as possible on our last two climbing days!"

During the last two days, both Eva (in the picture) and Jessy did three routes 8b and 8b+ second go. Eva is #3 in the 8a ranking game and Jessy has qualified to Tokyo.

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Aubade direct 9a+ by Anatole Bosio

Monday, 19 October

Aubade direct 9a+ by Anatole Bosio

Anatole Bosio has done the third ascent of Aubade direct 9a+ in Sainte-Victoire. Last summer he did the second ascent of Gerome Pouvreau's Aubade from 2005 suggesting an upgrade to 9a and since then he has tried the 9a+ off and on.

“Aubade direct” is a 9 meters 7c+ into a kneebar rest followed by 6 insane moves very powerful, with long moves on tiny crimps. The hardest move is quite awkward, you need to dyno from a slopy undercling to a little crack." Fanatic Climbing has the full interview. Here is the video. © Martin Baudry

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Sofa Surfer 8A (+) by Karoline Sinnhuber

Monday, 19 October

Sofa Surfer 8A (+) by Karoline Sinnhuber

Karoline Sinnhuber, who previoulsy has done six 8B's, has done Sofa Surfer 8A (+) in Magic Wood. In total, the former competition climber has done 101 8A's and harder. (c) Fabian Leu

"Took me around 1,5h to send, was my first session on it. I‘m working on, One summer in paradise and Trullator (both 8B) at the moment. Tried Trullator for the first time this trip and it‘s a really cool and tricky compression/heel/toe roof ☺️ but I’m still waiting for a little cooler conditions for one summer 🙁."

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Saturday, 17 October

The Hunted 9a FA by BJ Tilden (39)

BJ Tilden has done his fifth 9a FA, The Hunted in Wold Point. Interesting is that the 39-year-old had his best year last year and with also three 8c+ in 2020, this year is even better.

"A link up, but for sure one of the best lines in the cave. Does the start of Stalk and Ambush(V11) into the meat of Okami(14b) and finishes on Spitting Venom(14c). Combines the best part of those three routes right in The middle of the cave. Psyched!!"

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Empath 9a+ FA by Carlo Traversi

Saturday, 17 October

Empath 9a+ FA by Carlo Traversi

Carlo Traversi, who previously this year did his first 8C+ boulder, has done the FA of Empath 9a+ in Tahoe. It took him including bolting and cleaning some 15 days. (c) Mary Mecklenburg

" I bolted it last summer and started working on it. Made some goods links last fall. This year I prioritized this route above everything. Climbing on Creature (the 8C+) was training for it. Once the temperatures dropped last week I started giving redpoint tries. Fell off the top a few times but managed to finish it up this past Sunday. It is slightly overhung, about 20 meters tall. Granite tufas and slopers. No real rests. Very bouldery." More insight on his Insta.

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Senzace 9a by Vojta Trojan and Martin Stranik

Friday, 16 October

Senzace 9a by Vojta Trojan and Martin Stranik

Vojta Trojan and Martin Stranik have done Senzace 9a in Krkavka. Stranik got the silver in the 2007 Boulder World Championship and Vojta, who comments below, has previously done two 9a's.

"Krkavka - the crag where 'Senzace' is located, is almost my home crag. Even though, I haven't tried this route much before because there was a hold broken in the crux section and we didn't know if it's possible (I tried it once and it seemed very hard). Then Adam Ondra did the first ascent after the broken hold. After showing the possibility of climbing it I just got pretty excited and started working it. The route starts with ten moves which should be 8B/B+ boulder followed by resistance climbing around 8a+. In overall it took me around 5-7days (didn't count😄) but have to say, that it went down much faster then I expected. The day after the send I also did the "easier" start of the route called 'Kompletace' which is 8c+ and shares the main crux. "

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Greenspit 8b (+) trad by Barbara Zangerl

Friday, 16 October

Greenspit 8b (+) trad by Barbara Zangerl

Barbara Zangerl, the best female multi-discipline rock climber for many years, reports on Insta that she has done Greenspit 8b (+) trad in Valle dell'Orco. It was put up in 2005 by Didier Berthod as an 8b+ meaning it was the hardest crack in Europe and possibly in the world but later also 8b have been suggested. Originally it had green bolts but they were chopped off. In 2006, it appeared in the film First Ascent and the 12-meter roof crack became an icon route. (c) Jacopo Larcher

" Greenspit was always a line I wanted to try one day. It took me 4 days (13 turns) from Handjam-fingerlock-crimps, feet first—you find it all on this one! It was fun to work on that climb and find out the beta to fight it to the top. Placing all the gear on lead and removing it after every single try adds some extra work/struggle to it. Really enjoyed to spend time with Jacopo at this very cool place and sharing the motivation."

It should be mentioned that trad grades have over the years developed stiffer than sport grades and including that you have to place all gear on lead, as the ethics also said for sport routes originally, an 8b trad most be considered as an 8b+ sport route today. "Feels definitely harder than any 8b I did... it definitely makes a difference placing the gear on lead..."Furthermore, beside Barbara being the best all-round female rock climber in the world, she should be Top-10 among the male. She has done 9a and onsighted 8b. In bouldering she did an 8B in 2008 but due to a back injury she then had to stop. In trad she has done up to 8c and her overall tick list in big walls are possibly only beaten by Tommy Caldwell.

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