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Roof der Wildnis 8B+ by Jana Švecová

Roof der Wildnis 8B+ by Jana Švecová

Jana Švecová (Vincourková) has done Roof der Wildnis in Lower Austria, after trying it for only four days, video.

"8B+ boulder was THE GOAL for my climbing career. I actually wasn’t looking for a boulder in such a grade for this year, but recently we got to know one really nice and extremely strong guy Lukas Mayerhofer from Austria. We climbed a lot in Saalachtal together and Moravian Karst as well, we (me and Martin) were going through his YouTube channel checking out his ascents and we found this boulder named Roof der Wildnis 8B+. Looking really in my style and I immediately got psyched and we contacted Lukas if he could show us the area and that boulder. The very next weekend we were on our way.

When we got there, we were amazed at how amazing the boulders in lower Austria are, just absolutely amazing and beautiful, and the particular this boulder is a world-class one. It is a boulder in the roof as you can see in the video, through a small edge where I thought I could fit my fingers pretty well but even it is in a crack and I wasn't really benefiting from having thin fingers as the holds in the crux are quite open and the difficult part is that you can't fully crimp them. This actually suited me even better, cause half-crimping is what I like the most.

First I’ve tried the boulder last weekend where I was able to link up all the moves but it was just too much to send it on the first visit. Our next visit was this weekend and the goal was simply just to send the boulder. I warmed up my fingers and the body, I tried a couple of times the two final moves because there is nothing more frustrating than falling from the final part of the boulder. I did those moves pretty easily so I gained confidence thinking that once I get through the crux, I will finish it easily. Expectations didn’t fulfill and I fell from the final 7B+ top out twice 😁🤯 I started to have dought if I can even do it…

I knew I can’t try it again like this so I had to find another beta for the top-out. That is the moment when Martin comes in pretty handy😁 as he always finds every single possible way for certain sequences and decides which one is the easiest for him. Luckily he found like four different ways to do the last moves and one suited me really well. I must say that before him finding a different method a real mental battle started for me. I was already tired, my skin was bleeding and the grade of the boulder started to play mind games on me.

Anyway long story short. On the next try I fell from the crux and almost lost my nerves, but we had something like psychological therapy discussion with Martin and it helped to calm me down. I also meditated for a little and the next go I did it, I am so happy!! Now hard training for three weeks to get ready for our two months trip to UAE😍"


What is UAE?
United Arab Emirates. It is the area we visited last winter. Our plan is to further develop local potential, we left there couple of amazing projects that we are looking forward to trying again. I have two videos from there on my youtube channel :)

Heritage 8B (+) and two 8A+ by Camilla Moroni

Heritage 8B (+) and two 8A+ by Camilla Moroni

Camilla Moroni, who previously the last five weeks has done four 8A+, has sent Heritage (8B+) in Valle Bavona, calling it 8B. Video on her Insta. “I'm really happy to have finished my main winter projects with Heritage, my best achievement on rock so far. It took me three sessions this season and one the last year”.

The last week, the silver medalist in the World Championship in 2021, did Kings of Sonlerto 8A+ (B) in Valle Bavona and Second life (8A+) in Chironico. "Finally the temperatures have dropped and there are good conditions to try hard stuff. I have tried King of Sonlerto two weeks ago and it seemed really hard, but two days ago whit the right conditions it felt much easier than the previous session. Regarding Second Life I think it is absolutely a soft 8A+."

So what is next? The winter season has just started?
I don't have other projects because now I start training for the next season. Probably I will climb on rock a few more weekends.

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Olympic qualification + WC starts in April in Japan

The first Boulder World Cup in 2023 will take place in Hachioji in Japan, April 21st-24th. At this event, competitors will start receiving points in order to qualify for the Olympic qualification series that will take place in the Spring of 2024. The exact details are not yet defined but it seems th…

Two 8c's by Bayes Wilder (11)

Two 8c's by Bayes Wilder (11)

Bayes Wilder, who last year did his first 8c+, has been on a three week climbing trip around Lleida where he did 20 routes, (mainly onsight or flash), 7b and ha…

Interview with Anak Verhoeven (updated)

Interview with Anak Verhoeven (updated)

Anak Verhoeven is historically speaking one of the best female Lead competition climbers. She made finals in the WC 36 times in a row. In total, she made the po…

MORE NEWS

Gakido 8C+ by Ryuichi Murai

Gakido 8C+ by Ryuichi Murai

Ryuichi Murai, who previously has done three 8C+ FAs, has made the second ascent of Shinichiro Nomura’s Gakido (8C+) in Chigobutai. Two weeks ago, he did one more second ascent of a Nomura FA, Loca (8C) in Shiobara. (c) Momoka Oda

"The other day, I succeeded in one of my main objectives for this season. This line is an old project completed by Nomsin in March of this year and consists of only 4 moves. Moreover, the actual difficulty is concentrated in the second move (aiming for the next hold while fully locking the body in an unstable state).

This day was the third day of trying, and the temperature was cooler than when I tried for two days the last year, so the conditions were perfect. Thanks to that, I was able to grab the pinch hold in a hard direction in a stable state, and I continued to make a lot of close tries. After several adjustments to the trajectory of the move, I finally succeeded in the second move and was able to send it. As for the grade, it's difficult to evaluate because it's very short, but I feel it's easier than the V16s I've climbed so far."


Could you say something about the potential low start?
The low-start project joins Gakido after four crimpy moves like 8B (V13). The most difficult part was reaching the start position of Gakido, and unfortunately, I couldn't do it on this day. Connecting from below will increase the difficulty of Gakido greatly.

Bords de levres 8a+ (b) OS by Théo Blass (12)

Bords de levres 8a+ (b) OS by Théo Blass (12)

Théo Blass (12) has onsighted Bords de lèvres (8a+) in Saint Cezaire. What’s interesting is that the 147 cm tall climber did not know the grade of the climb and placed all quickdraws. The 12-year-old thought it was 8a+ and the next day they found out that it was actually 8b in the topo. Two months ago, he became the youngest climber ever to have done a 9a. (c) Laurent Dormont


We asked his father Vlad to give some comments about the onsight and about how Théo trains.

The onsight took about 10 minutes. Theo later joked that onsighting is so much less work than working on a hard red point. The route is a crimpy power endurance line with no rest in the hard section and no going back if you start a sequence wrong.

Theo's training is not particularly structured - during school holidays he does not train and only climbs outside. During school time he trains a couple of times a week (once at our small basement wall and once with his club - generally 1 to 2 hours per session) and he climbs outside on weekends (rarely more than 4-5 routes per session). Before competitions he trains a bit more specifically on our Flathold volumes - we try to simulate comp style problems on our tiny home "comp" wall in the garden.

Theo is currently trying to climb as many routes in the 8th grade as possible, looking to do them quickly and to vary the styles - he tries to do an 8th on each outdoor climbing day (within the limits of what is available at our local crags and nearby as we don't like travelling too far). The idea is to improve his risk-taking (not literally - his personality is quite risk-averse), quick decision making and flow, and to have more fun (not always easy when you are working on a longer term project). He also tries to do more onsights but the onsighting opportunities in our local area are a bit limited (the routes are often quite "sequency" and run-out).

Solitary man 8c by Solveig Korherr

Solitary man 8c by Solveig Korherr

Solveig Korherr, who last year did her first 9a, has done Solitary Man (8c) in Frankenjura. “Power-endurance testpiece. Sick move to the mono! Good day outside with Romy, Jon & Floyd today. 6 tries.” (c) Jon Shen

F… the System 8C+ by Clément Lechaptois

F… the System 8C+ by Clément Lechaptois

Clément Lechaptois, who previously has done six 8C's, has done Fuck the system (8C+) in Fionnay. "Old vision from Dave, FA by Shawn. Amazing problem, crazy holds set & movements. Every minute trying that boulder was fun! (c) Robin Janvier

How many sessions did it take to set a PB and what about replica?
I probably tried between 15 and 20 days but some of them when the boulder was partially wet or in bad conditions. I started to try when Shawn (Raboutou FA) was projecting then continued to end of fall 21. Came back some days in spring but it was wet most of the time. This fall I came back and progressed day by day as the conditions improved and I get stronger after practicing the moves & sequences. That was an amazing process !!

I didn't try on a replica. It is relatively close to home (~2h drive) so I was able to try for real pretty easily. But I trained my body tension & power quite specifically on steep boards & on my SmartBoard to get ready at fall temps.

Last week the 29-year-old did The Kingdom (8C), calling it 8B+. ”I tried it a couple of quick sessions two years ago. First day this year.” Fanatic Climbing has made an interview.

A star is born 9a FA by Enrique Beltran

A star is born 9a FA by Enrique Beltran

Enrique Beltrán Blasco, who did his first 8b just three years ago, has done the FA of A star is born (9a) in Foz de zafrané.

The first time that I tried the route was in april after the send of Supernowa (9a). A star is born is totally my style: campus, dynamik and powerfull but the heat came in summer and I left it. In september there are a lot of motivation in this sector because Daniel Fuertes did his project Excelsior (9a+) and I did good links but I needed to wait for good conditions for the send.”

What is the background of the name?
Dani got the news that he was going to be a father, for the second time, the day that he finished bolting the line.

Flex Luthor 9a+ (b) by Jonathan Siegrist

Flex Luthor 9a+ (b) by Jonathan Siegrist

Jonathan Siegrist has repeated Tommy Caldwell’s testpiece from 2003, Flex Luthor (9a+) in The Fortress. Last year, it got its first two repeats and 9b was suggested.

Very cool to revisit this crag after 12 years! TC is forever a massive inspiration for me - I didn't realize how important it would feel to climb on this route. Went fully A Muerte after getting through the bottom crux for the first time. On the grade, for me personally, the route does not compare to the 9b I have done or tried - that being said it is still one of the hardest in Colorado for sure.”

The 37-year-old is having his best year ever having done eleven routes 9a to 9b and in total, he has now done 68 such graded climbs. On that 9a list, he is #7 in the All-Time High list and in the 8a ranking game, he is #2 after Adam Ondra.