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Sofa Surfer 8A+ by Tiba Vroom

Thursday, 15 October

Sofa Surfer 8A+ by Tiba Vroom

Tiba Vroom, who had 7C as her PB three months ago, has during the last month done four 8A's as well as her first 8A+, Sofa Surfer in Magic Woods. (c) Hannes Kutza

"This year I feel like I was really well prepared for the competition season, all the national comps in the beginning of the year went really well, but than everything got cancelled because of the corona crisis of course. Luckily I had the opportunity to keep on training during the lockdown period so I decided to shift my focus for this year on rock climbing, which I never had time for before because I always focus on competitions. Than this September I went to Magic Wood for the first time and I really really liked it here so I decided to stay for a bit longer and try to climb some hard boulders. The style here really suits me as well, and Sofa Surfer especially because it’s physical as well as technical and I really enjoy that!

I am currently here on my own, living in my bus, but there are some other strong climbers here that I climb with. It’s not so busy here though, probably because of all the covid stuff. I know some people from the Netherlands who were supposed to come here but they were not allowed to go into Switzerland anymore."

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Nu World 9a+/b FA by Jonathan Siegrist

Thursday, 15 October

Nu World 9a+/b FA by Jonathan Siegrist

Jonathan Siegrist has made the FA of Nu World at a remote new crag outside Las Vegas. In total, the 35-year-old has now done some 50 routes 9a to 9b, putting him as #6 in that list. In the annual 8a ranking game, he is #2. (c) Nate Liles

"All together I think I probably tried the route almost 50 times over 5 weeks. It took me many sessions to figure out the cryptic method through the bottom 7 bolts (it’s super resistant here - barely even a spot to clip, and absolutely no stopping for 30 moves). After this there is a small rest, and then for ‘Nu World’ you climb to the right and up another 25 meters of beautiful and hard climbing, maybe ~8c. The direct will go straight up for another 30+ meters and there are several very hard boulder problems with worse rests than on Nu World. I’m looking forward to trying it next season! But for now I need a break from the 90 minute approach... The direct finish will be crazy hard - if I can ever do the bottom again..."

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MORE NEWS

Updated: Hubble 9a (8c+) by Buster Martin

Wednesday, 14 October

Updated: Hubble 9a (8c+) by Buster Martin

Buster Martin reports on Insta with a picture by Andrew MacFarlane that he has done Hubble at Raven Tor. It was put up in 1990 by Ben Moon as the first 8c+ in the world but later the UK scene have called it 9a although no of the first repeaters did upgrade it. Buster used the same knee pad beta as Matt Wright just did but did not mention any grade in his post. He has previously done one 9a+ and one 9a in Spain.

"The most technical piece of climbing I've done and maybe less of a test of power than you may think. It’s all in the subtleties and working them out. Yeah, you need to be strong but a twist of the wrist by a few degrees, hips in the right place or getting your fingers on the right ripples on the rock is what really gets you up this thing."

Buster says he took it down after some six sessions out of which four this year. One of the reason he tried it again was because Mat Wright find the knee bar.

So what do you think about the grade? It's obviously easier with the knee pad but compared to the other high 8s I have done at Raven tor then I think it is 9a.

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Underground 8c+ (9a) by Gio Placci (19)

Wednesday, 14 October

Underground 8c+ (9a) by Gio Placci (19)

Gio Placci has done Underground 8c+ (9a) in Arco and amazingly, it was on his 30iest day on. Even on the day before he did two indoor sessions and spent five hours in train and bus to reach Arco. He lives two hours from the nearest crag and he goes always alone to Arco which takes 2.45 hours if he is lucky to commute with a car. Last year he was #8 in a Euro Youth Cup but this year he focused on outdoors and have had a great progress. (c) Sara Grippo

"This year during the lockdown I was able to train very well in my home gym with my little brother. I trained two times all days for about 60 days! Due to the fact that just one comp took place, I could focus on outdoor climbing and I was able to send nine routes from 8c to 8c+. I live far away from Arco but I love this place and almost every weekend I go there to climb." The 19-year-old has just started the University and says that, "For me it doesn’t change so much if I rest or not, mainly only before competitions. Outdoors, I usually set a goal and I rest only for this. For example now I’m training to do a 9a in Arco, so I’m waiting the best conditions. Underground was nothing special and the send was very unexpected. I did it just as I was "training" during my third day on it. The first time I got made the first crux I sent it!"

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Dicktopia 8C by James Webb

Tuesday, 13 October

Dicktopia 8C by James Webb

James Webb, who previously has done five 8C+', has done his 8C #30, Dicktopia in Camp Dick. "The bloc took me two sessions. I climbed it first try on the second day. Most definitely suits my style quite well. Right now I’m back home in South Lake Tahoe, CA and the fall season is just kicking off. I have a lot of projects here so hopefully, we’ll be able to put some down soon!"

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Suma cero 8c by Iziar Martinez (15)

Tuesday, 13 October

Suma cero 8c by Iziar Martinez (15)

Iziar Martinez has done her fourth 8c, Suma cero in Cuenca. "I went to Cuenca this weekend and my trainer told me I had to try something hard so I tried Suma cero 8c. I thought I could do it and the route was really cool and I did it in six tries." (c) Javi Pec

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Monday, 12 October

Atene Naturale 9a FA by Adam Ondra

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Monday, 12 October

Formiert 8c FA by Martina Demmel (18)

Martina Demmel has done her tenth 8c in 2020 by the FA of Formiert 8c in Kochel. Interesting is that she started climbin in 2017 when she reached 7a and now the 18-year-old is #2 in the 8a ranking game.

"I've been "Voi miad" after clipping the chains of this old forgotten project/combi (from Markus Meier; thx Toni L. for motivating me to give it a try) at Afrikawand within 4 tries but with knowing some sections pretty well already, which makes the grading even harder;) no possibilities to rest during this 38 moves resistance beast! The direct and more logical version of "Ratzfatz..." Biggest thanks Isi for all the belays including the sending one. More infos on Insta:).

Just barely possible to chalk up a few times which means that it's maybe the one longest continious sequence I've done so far as I normally find some hidden rests to shake out which unfortunately didn't happenend in this one...👐😅"

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Sunday, 11 October

Lake District Bouldering