EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Luca Bana and the FA of Extrasistole 9a

Luca Bana did the FA of Extrasistole galoppante (9a) in December 2021. "Outstanding project on the 'heart' sector, bolted in 2010 by Yuri parimbelli and remained unclimbed until now. A mix of big exposure, rock quality and savage moves makes it one of the best hard routes of the area!"

Japan, USA and Slovenia dominated the 2022 WC

Here is the Combined national World Cup ranking in 2022. It was more or less the same ranking in 2021, aside from Japan creating an even bigger gap between themselves and the other countries chasing them. The Czech Republic has dropped in ranking due to the absence of Adam Ondra. Remarkably, Sloveni…

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The Big Island, 8C by Jan Hojer

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The Big Island, 8C by Jan Hojer

Jan hojer has done Vincent Pochon's The Big Island, 8C in Fontainebleau which is a lower start of The Island which was put up by Dave Graham. (c) Sven Böhme The 20 year old and 186 cm tall is possibly the boulderer with the fastest progress the last years. In 2011 his personal best was 8A+ and now he is #4 in the 8a ranking game. Last year he won the semifinal in the Boulder World Champion. Normally he trains 4 - 9 hours a week!

Amazing recovery after 15 m ground fall

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Amazing recovery after 15 m ground fall

Eight months after a 15 m ground fall, Rannveig Aamodt has done a personal personal best with three 8a's at Railay. "I laid on the ground in a bobble of light, and I thought, wow, I´m dying... and then I thought ´No, that is to early` after that the pain was overwhelming, and it all became a battle.. fighting to stay awake.. fighting for my life. Here is Rannveig's story with amazing pictures by (c) Terje Aamodt.com

Hukkataival blog from Peñoles, Mexico

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Hukkataival blog from Peñoles, Mexico

Nalle Hukkataival blogs about a new hard core paradise Peñoles, Mexico. It is Diego Montull that until now has been the pioneer with some 150 ascents in the 8a data base, with detailed info. (c) Sandstone Media "Peñoles is geologically a lot like Hueco; a mountain of boulders in the middle of the desert. Also the rock in many places is similar to Hueco, but that’s pretty much all these places have in common. There are no restrictions of Hueco, no entrance fees, no waiting in line, no back-country guides needed. You can camp by the boulders and go climbing whenever you want without getting a permission from anyone. The rock seems to be made for hard boulders. While there are great problems and projects for all grades, what really strikes my eye is the amount of hard projects in the v14 - v17? (8B+ to 9A) range. It is very rare to find these lines that are really hard but still possible and I don’t think I’ve never seen so many of them anywhere else in the world.

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Two 8c's by Piotr Schab (16)

Piotr Schab has done two 8c's in Oliana, Fish Eye and T1 Full Equip for which he says, "8b+ in comparison to Fish Eye. The 16-year-old has previously done Era Vella, 9a and he is #1 in the junior ranking game.

Rocklands hit by a fire

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Rocklands hit by a fire

Climbing.co.za reports with pictures about fire in Rocklands that might affect future bouldering. "The fire is mostly out, but Rocklands is among the 500 square-km of land that’s been burnt clean. The horizon is clear of smoke and we are now able to start tallying the damage in detail."