EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


New Combined format to be tested in ECH Munich

The European Championships, in Munich, starts on 11/8 and finishes on 17-18/8 with the Combined final events. The Combined qualification rankings are based on (World Cup) points gained in the Lead and Boulder events at the beginning of the Championships. In other words, 850 points might be needed to…

Outsiders in Euro Champ in Munich

The European Championship in Munich starts 11/8 and some will compete for four days straight doing three rounds in Boulder and Lead respectively. This means that the athletes only doing one discipline have an advantage and that goes especially for the male athletes only doing Lead and the female ath…

10 nations share the 18 medals in Graz

The third and final day of the Euro Youth Championship in Graz started with the semifinal for the oldest juniors. Surprisingly, both the boys and the girls competed on almost identical boulders as the final Youth A boulders from yesterday. Several coaches were upset as this is against the onsight fo…

Korosec and Mabboni Youth A winners in Graz

On the second day of the European Youth Championship in Graz, Allesia Mabboni from Italy won Youth A making two tops and four zones (24). Runner-up was Iziar Martinez from Spain who flashed the two boulders which Allesia could not do but she could only make three zones. The Spaniard was #15 in the …

Very hard boulders in ECH - Graz

The European Youth Championship in Bouldering started today in Graz. Unfortunately, the boulders were very hard and both climbers and coaches were upset. The Norweigian Head Coach, Reino "Nicki" Horak said that for the girls, it was the worst and hardest setting he has ever seen. "It was much worse …

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Another 9a FA in Frankenjura by Markus Bock and Interview

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Another 9a FA in Frankenjura by Markus Bock and Interview

Markus Bock writes in his blog, "I've managed to free some really great 11th grade routes from their project status, namely Reunion 8c, The Obsessed 8c+, The 4 Horsemen 8c+ and Witchtripper 9a." This should mean that out of the Top-50 hardest routes in Frankenjura, Markus has opend 48! Interview (c) Jochen Meyer of The 4 Horsemen

8b Argyro Papathanasiou

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8b Argyro Papathanasiou

Argyro Papathanasiou finished a nice career in Taekwando some three years ago. After two years of focusing on climbing she did 8a and now after another ten months with some ten routes 8a and and 8a+ she has done her first 8b, El Figot in Siurana. "I almost did it in my third try too but then a big hole in my fingertip made me climb for 4-5 days with tape which was impossible. On my last day in Siurana I decided I will give only one try with no tape a muerte...and I did it...just enough skin before it opened again!

9a and 8c+ by Joey Kinder

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9a and 8c+ by Joey Kinder

Joey Kinder who will spend the whole winter in Spain has sent La Nuvena Puerta, 8c+ and Seleccio Natural, 9a in Santa Linya. "After breaking holds and the route changing 20 times I am comfortable calling it 9a. Great time trying this route with Black Tooth Tommy and learning the in's and out's on this monster. Seldom climbed on and represents one of the best routes in Santa Linya. Pure non-stop climbing with zero stopping spots for the meat of the route. A perfect-muscley-style on a 45º wall. I love this route. I would like to dedicate this send to the folks involved in the heinous shootings of Newtown, Connecticut. This really hit home on many levels and created a pretty emotional day yesterday. Everything felt pointless. Maybe not giving a shit about climbing helped. Bueno, en el final estoy contento.