LATEST NEWS

First 9a by Shoda Shinichi

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First 9a by Shoda Shinichi

Shoda Shinichi has done his first 9a, Era Vella in Margalef which is the most repeated 9a in the world during the last two years. "I started attempting "Era Bella" last November. I tried it for five days but I could not make it to the top. This year, I finally sent it after 20 days of projecting including also the rest days. This route was the most full pump fest and the most beautiful route in my life. Thank you Sharma!"

Markus Eder repeats Loskot's 9a (+)

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Markus Eder repeats Loskot's 9a (+)

Klem Loskot gives us the story of his first, and the second ascent, from Markus Eder of The Balcony project, 9a (+). "It is a fantastic line and it has been in my brain since I bolted it 18 years ago. It is bouldery, absolutely not my style, so fingery. I am heavy and it is not possible to put much weight on feet. Three weeks ago I started to work it together with Markus Eder. It is nice to not work alone and we found a new solution and two session later I did it and some days ago also Markus did it." What is your plan for the future? Keep on pulling hard and evolving my style of "flying and dancing weightless" on the rock and of course climb some more hard stuff. I opened a lot of hard boulders the last two years which I want icons of bouldering to try, like Forever Pretty, 8B+ I put up three weeks ago. I feel still not on zenith which I want to find... I forgot in the mail yesterday that I want to pay tribute, say that Zunami (8C) by the Schwaiger brothers in 2003 is very cool. Also, it's a pure line, for limestone here at home not so easy to find. It's how you think of a hard boulder, check the picture!

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Male Lead dominated by USA and Japan

Male Lead dominated by USA and Japan

In the male Lead ranking of 2018, Sean Bailey was #18 and the highest ranked from the USA. The second highest was #43. In 2019, Sean had advanced to #9 and Jess…

Garnbret and Grupper win the semi in Villars

Janja Garnbret was the only athlete to top the semifinal route in Villars. Runner-up was Chaehyun Seo and the third was Brooke Raboutou, which also was the final ranking in Innsbruck last weekend. Among the male, Jesse Grupper got the highest ahead of Colin Duffy. Interestingly, Team Japan got four …

5.09 and 5.04 by Kiromal Katibin

In the Villar Speed qualification, Kiromal Katibin from Indonesia set two World Records. In his first run, he did 5.09 and then 5.04 in his second race, video. Runner-up was Long Cao from China with 5.22. Besides the several World Records in 2022, the level has been pushed significantly and 5.58 was…

Michaela Kiersch leads the current 12-month female combined ranking

Michaela Kiersch leads the current 12-month female combined ranking

Over the last 12 months, Michaela Kiersch has sent two 8B+ boulders and one 9a route. There might be some unreported ascents out there from other female climber…

MORE NEWS

Nalle's 8C gets 8B+ by Jan Hojer again

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Nalle's 8C gets 8B+ by Jan Hojer again

Jan hojer has once again made a quick repeat of a Nalle Hukkataival 8C in Val Bavona, Off The Wgon giving it a personal grade of 8B+. "I didn't even dare dreaming of that boulder when I saw dosage for the first time. The FA of that classic is the well deserved reward for all the work, Nalle invested into brushing nearly everything in this valley. Took me about 20 tries over two sessions. Anybody who tried "Off the Wagon" knows how irrelevant the grade is for such a cool line... It's a hard boulder and even harder for short People!" It should be mentioned that it is very important to respect the access issues and park outside the village and do not walk in big groups etc.

8A+ and more by Alex Puccio

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8A+ and more by Alex Puccio

Alex Puccio is about to brake some kind of record having done seven 8A's and harder including todays Conquistadors, 8A+ in Chironico. "Really really AMAZING boulder!!! I found it really hard being short. Did it on my third day on it, but fell off the top the first and second day. Max reach! :) Did another amazing boulder today as well. Good day." In total Alex has done 47 boulders 8A and harder which probably puts her at top also in that field. She has two more weeks left before going back to UK and she just might trying some 8B's. Next year, she plans to do the Boulder WC again. The last two years she was 5 and #3 overall. In 2009 she won the only event she participated in.

Nalle's 8C gets 8B+ by Jan Hojer

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Nalle's 8C gets 8B+ by Jan Hojer

Jan hojer has made the second ascent of Nalle Hukkataival's new 8C, Momentum in Val Bavona giving it a personal grade of 8B+. (c) Mary Mecklenburg "Fantastic line! Super cool 50 degrees overhang with perfect crimps and powerful climbing. Everything comes down to a huge throw to a good crimp. Thank you nalle for putting so much work into establishing that 5 star line! I would love to call that one my first 8C but I took it down in one session..." Equally impressive is that Jan the day before flashed two 8A's and Ganymede Takeover, 8A+ in Brione whitin 30 minutes!

Nalle opens Off the Wagon, 8C

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Nalle opens Off the Wagon, 8C

Remember Dave Graham's crazy project in Val Bavona, from Dosage 3, tried by Chris Sharma in Dosage 4? Good ol' times ! The project is no longer a project, thanks to Mr Hukkataival. In his blog he suggests 8C and says, "One of the purest boulders I’ve ever climbed! There are only a few features on the wall and they are far apart.

The Hole's Hardest?

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The Hole's Hardest?

Justin Taylor reports the season in Adelaide's 'Hole' has opened again and young Trent Searcy has put his bouldering back into route climbing. He has just linked Philipino Furburger into Circus St Extension to produce Philipino Out at 31. According to at least some of the locals, this is now the hardest route in the Hole, and raconteur Steve Kelly tells the full (funny) story on the VL blog. Image: Craig Ingram. --LC