Francesco Berardino ticks three 8C+'s in two weeks

Francesco Berardino reports on Instagram that he has done the first repeat of Dave Graham's Celestite (8C+) in Valle Bavona. (c) High Video & Media Production

"I tried it a lot with Dave Graham when he did the FA last year but his kneebar solution was impossible for me. Giul [Cameroni] found a blind foot which makes it easier for me."

After completing Celestite, the 20-year-old went to Innsbruck for ten days and did multiple double session days on the spray wall with friends. Three days ago, he repeated Giuliano Cameroni's REM (8C+) and yesterday he sent Yannick Flohe's Return of the Dreamtime (8C+), both in Cresciano.

Of the three 8C+'s you just did, which one do you find the most challenging?
REM is the hardest one for me. You need to be super precise on very sharp crimps. I tried it a lot last year but after Innsbruck, I felt light and could do it in the first session. The other two are easier and for me possibly hard 8C's. I also did some replica training of Return... and that might reflect my feelings. All three boulders are super good.

How many 8C and harder have you done now?
I do not know. I do not keep track. My first was The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) but this is probably 8B+ due to new knee bar beta. Grades are not important for me and I still say The Story was my first 8C as I climbed it in the 8C style.

Are you climbing full time now?
I have been a full-time climber since I finished school like 1.5 years ago. Last autumn I spent a couple of months with Dave and Giul and we just climbed and this is what I want to do. I do not work and my parents help me out with gas etc. I get some free climbing gear but I do not have any sponsors. I just want to climb. My hero is Bruce Lee, "Be like water, flawless and shape less."

Have you lined up a new project for yourself?
I would like to repeat Shawn's [Raboutou] The Story of the Three Worlds [8C+].

Back in 2022, Theo Blass sent Trip tik tonik (9a) and became the youngest climber to have done a 9a.

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Lucy Mitchell redpoints Darwin Dans La Cave (8c)

Lucy Mitchell has been on a trip to Aix-en-Provence where she managed to send Darwin Dans La Cave (8c).

This year was a bit of a comeback trip for me. Last December I had a nasty fall and broke my kneecap quite badly so it was my first time back outside. It was just the best being back on rock and getting moving again!

I wanted to try some routes that I had been on last year before the accident. La rose et le vampire (8b), in the picture, and Sur les épaules de Darwin (8b+) were my two main projects. After a ‘small’ battle just after the last draw of La rose (7 drops!) it finally gave in 😊

Sur les épaules de Darwin (8b+) was much more my style (long and pumpy) but with a really hard boulder at the start that I struggled with. After a few days of trying the boulder and getting very pumped on the upper section, I finally got through it and luckily had built up enough fitness and did not fall off the top!

Darwin Dans La Cave (8c) is a cave extension to the above. 6 bolts in a horizontal roof and then into the pumpy shared top. Luck was on my side again and the first time I made it through the roof I did not drop the top! This was my favourite ascent, fighting all the way! The perfect way to finish the trip!”

Solveig Korherr does Escalatamasters 9a (8c+)

Solveig Korherr has sent Esclatamasters (9a) in Perles & Canelles. ” Probably one of the best lines I have climbed on limestone so far! Having two completely different climbing styles combined in one route on such high-quality rock makes it very unique. Grade-wise, it felt more on the 8c+ side to me. 8 tries over five days. Thanks Dan for sharing all the beta and kneebar wizardry, and the sending belay! It’s a lot of beta to remember ^^” (c) Emile Pino

Over the last two weeks, the 25-year-old has also redpointed two 8c's and onsighted Humildes pa Casa (8b+) and she comments on Instagram. "It feels so surreal at the moment that I must be in one of the best shapes of my life. I guess, I’ve been adapting very well to the rock in recent weeks, and my psych seems endless right now🔥"

Enrique Beltrán Blasco makes the first ascent of Mavericks (9a)

Enrique Beltrán Blasco, who over the last two years has done five 9a's, has made the FA of Mavericks (9a) in Alquezar. The very next day, the 23-year-old repeated Desafiando a Noa (8c+).

Can you tell us more about Maveriks?
I am very happy with the ascent because it can be the hardest of my life. It was bolted Dani Fuertes three years ago. The route is about 30/35 metres on a roof and the most difficult part is to take the kneebar rest. This part is about hard 8c+ or 9a, small crimps, two finger pockets, very small feet and very physical.

You can relax a bit in the knee bar but it is bad. Then you continue with a helicopter move and the real crux is when you go on climbing, it's about a 7B boulder and then two quickdraws very easy with jugs. The finish is not very hard but when you do the small crimps in a more vertical wall [from the ground] , it is difficult to be calm and climb well.

Lasse von Freier does Off the Wagon Sit (8C+)

Lasse von Freier reports on Instagram that he has sent Off the Wagon Sit (8C+) in Valle Bavona. The 21-year-old German is a competitive climber and his best result thus far has been #13 in a European Cup last year.

"After many sessions over the last 4 years with ups and downs and filled with great memories this day has arrived. I am really proud to finish this lifetime goal."

The boulder, which includes a one-meter-cross over move where you face outwards, has been well known since Dave Graham and Chris Sharma tried it in the Dosage videos. Nalle Hukkataival made the FA of the stand start in 2012 as an 8C but later 8B+ has been the consensus. In 2018, Shawn Raboutou made the low start sitting from the wagon calling it 8C+ and it has also been projected sitting from the ground. Lasse says that he broke a foothold meaning one move became "slightly harder".