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Le Cadre Nouvelle Version 9a by Vojta Trojan

Vojta Trojan has done Le Cadre Nouvelle Version (9a) in Céüse. "Incredibly happy for taking this one down! Amazing line, but mentally challenging." Adam Ondra did the FA in 2010 avoiding the chipped pockets on Le Cadre (8c).

Two 8A+ by Marine Thevenet in Rocklands

Two 8A+ by Marine Thevenet in Rocklands

Marine Thevent reports on Instagram that she has done Microcline (8A+) and Colorado Corridor in Rocklands. In total, the full time lawyer has now done some 75 boulders 8A to 8B. (c) Clement Lechaptois

"For Microcline, I did the stand (7c+) in the first session and I was thinking to return to do Isabell's low start but Clement told me that Dai opened the sit (I didn’t know that the sit start even exists but it was obvious since you have perfect two holds to start!) So I sent it in the 2nd session at the boulder :) For Coco: It fits my style really well! A small compression with a heel hook. It took me one session!

How was Rocklands this year?
So it was my 5th Time in Rocklands and I had no « big expectations» since I had a finger injury from March to June. My only goal was to climb without any pain at all! This year the energy in Rocklands was really cool! I met some really nice and psyched people and it was really nice to see some climbers again in this paradise!

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Luca Bana and the FA of Extrasistole 9a

Luca Bana did the FA of Extrasistole galoppante (9a) in December 2021. "Outstanding project on the 'heart' sector, bolted in 2010 by Yuri parimbelli and remained unclimbed until now. A mix of big exposure, rock quality and savage moves makes it one of the best hard routes of the area!"

Japan, USA and Slovenia dominated the 2022 WC

Here is the Combined national World Cup ranking in 2022. It was more or less the same ranking in 2021, aside from Japan creating an even bigger gap between themselves and the other countries chasing them. The Czech Republic has dropped in ranking due to the absence of Adam Ondra. Remarkably, Sloveni…

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Book club 8B+ by Katie Lamb

Book club 8B+ by Katie Lamb

Katie Lamb has done her fifth 8B+, Book Club in Rocklands. During the last month she has also sent Ubuntu (8B), calling it 8A+, and two 8A's. The 23-year-old extends her #1 position in the 8a ranking game, which she has hold for more than two years now.

Moksha 9a by Victor Guillermin (17)

Victor Guillermin, who this spring got the bronze in a Euro Youth Cup, has done Moksha (9a) in Pic St Loup. The 17-year-old needed four sessions to take the 50m line down.

What is your next plan?
I don't really know what will be my next plans but I think I'll start to work on the big sister of Moksha: Beyond, Seb Bouin's king line, an incredible 9a+... a real dream line!

How long is the hike to the crag?
It takes approximately 1hours 15minutes ... but the hike is very steep, steeper than in Ceuse😅.

Change 9b+ by Seb Bouin - updated

Change 9b+ by Seb Bouin - updated

Sebastien Bouin reports on Insta that he has done Change (9b+) in Flatanger. (c) Marco Müller

Adam Ondra established the 55m route in 2012 as the first 9b+ in the world. Stefano Ghisolfi did the first repeat and as Seb said in his Insta, they both used knee pads which not Ondra did.

The French climber's ticklist for his one month trip to Flatanger is setting a new standard. 9b+, 9b/+ and three 9a+. Seb has yet to give a grade for Change.

After sending pitch 1 and pitch 2 independently, my goal was for sure trying the entire route. The only problem was I only had four more days, before my departure to come back home. I didn't know if it would be enough for the entire route. My body started to feel crushed by this cave. I felt tired from the trip. But I wanted to play the game until the very end.

Day 1, the conditions were terrible. It was humid and wet. A lot of the key holds were wet. I decided to not climb and wait for the next day. Day 2, it was still humid, and key holds were a bit dryer, but the humidity didn’t give me confidence. I decided to try the route anyway. It was difficult to wait much longer, knowing I had to leave soon. I passed the first pitch, rested a lot before pitch 2. Then passed the first traverse crux on Pitch 2, and fell straight after that on the second crux. The holds were really humid and almost wet.

Day 3, I still felt really tired from my attempt on the previous day, and I didn't sleep well during the night. I wasn’t planning to climb – I wanted to wait until I felt ready. I went up to the cave to check out conditions and belay my girlfriend on her route. The conditions were exceptional! I was torn in my mind. Should I try it and take advantage of the conditions? or should I wait until I knew I was fully recovered? I finally decided to try the route. I was literaly flowing through the holds, due to the good conditions. It was so much different than the day before. I am happy to say that I made no mistakes and felt the belief that I could make it to the end, and I did! I am not usually a ‘last day, last try’ kind of guy, but this time it happened 🙂 I climbed the route with kneepads, like previous ascensionist Stefano Ghisolfi.”

Thor’s Hammer 9a/+ by Dylan Chuat

Thor’s Hammer 9a/+ by Dylan Chuat

Dylan Chuat, who previously has done nine routes 9a and harder, reports on Insta that he has done Adam Ondra’s Thor’s Hammer 9a/+ in Flatanger. “Waaaw, what an amazing line!!! The holds are so beautiful, the effort and the line are just amazing! Just a pity that the beginning is always wet.” (c) Marco Müller

In total, he did seven routes 8c harder and he also onsighted Waliserne kommer og kommer (8b) during his one month. “Flatanger is amazing! It's very unique to have a granite cave like this one and there are so many incredible and hard ways! Even the easy routes on the left wall are crazy to climb! But it rains very often haha."

How did you manage all the wet holds on Thor's?
I climbed with the rope and I was drying and put magnesia on all the holds with paper. Then I left little pieces of paper in the holds which I took off when I climbed. The process took at least 15 minutes as the wet holds are like 7m away. I had to start climbing right away or else the plugs would get wet in 5 minutes.

What is your next plan?
I don't have a plan. Now I'm back in Switzerland and I'm going to rest a bit... but I'm going to have to do a lot of route setting these next months so I'm not going to be able to climb a lot. I'm going to climb closer to home.

Amandla 8B+ flash by Florian Wientjes

Amandla 8B+ flash by Florian Wientjes

Florian Wientjes, who previously has done a couple 8C’s, reports on Insta that he has flashed the classical Amandla in Rocklands. It was put up by Fred Nicole as an 8C but it is now considered a soft 8B+ and it has been redpointed 30+ times. (c) Leonard Moser

I was playing with the (flash) idea since a month or so. I went up early to the crag and started my warm-up routine including some Hangboarding. After 40min I decided to give it a try. My mind was free, cuz I know it totally fits my style and it worked. But, all in all i just did the same stuff like everyday when I climb😅.

I watched some videos before my trip and during the trip also a few.”