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9a FA by Diego Marsella (40)

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9a FA by Diego Marsella (40)

Diego Marsella has done the FA of El ordre dels factors + El super mon in La Bauma which is his first 9a. The 40 year old did his first 8c when he was 37 and his first 8c+, out of four, when he was 38. Spanish blog

Fourth 8c by Nina Caprez

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Fourth 8c by Nina Caprez

Nina Caprez has done Little King, 8c at St. Ange which is her fourth of the grade. "It is about 30 meters long with a first half part 7a and then really resistant, lightly overhanging on super small holds with a bad crux in the end. Super psyched about the ascent! I'm getting in a really good shape for this autumne, I will go to the red river gorges in middle of october" Nina has successfully tried all climbing disciplines from boulder comps to multi pitches and big walls around the globe. She has also onsighted four 8a+'s.

Warrior Up (8C) for Matty Hong

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Warrior Up (8C) for Matty Hong

The son of one of America's greatest climbers continues to prove himself, this time with the fourth ascent of Daniel Woods' Warrior Up in Lincoln Lake, Colorado. The problem was also climbed by Dave Graham and more recently by Jimmy Webb. This is Hong's first 8C though he has previously climbed 8B+ and is an accomplished route climber. He is 21 years old.

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The contradiction: Easiest sequences Vs Hardest variations

Being a climber means that you challenge yourself both by finding the easiest sequences and the hardest variations. Every FA want to create clear an obvious lines which, however, sometimes get ruined because harder variations being added. In some cases it also leads to that eliminations have to be established reducing the free spirit of climbing. For some reasons, it seems like in bouldering more focus is actually been put forward to add any type of link-ups to create the hardest graded variations.

Succesful Try Out at ABC

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Succesful Try Out at ABC

Michele LaVerghetta Dolan

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8A Again by Alexandra Kordick

Alexandra Kordick has done her third 8A since July, Eternia in RMNP which originally was put up as an 8B. "This has been a lesson in sacrifice, not only on my part, but by all my climbing partners. Thanks for all the hours spent lugging pads and supporting my efforts Mark (and everyone else). Thanks for the clutch beta Shannon. I am proud I did this line it was a real mental battle to believe, and to execute. I will miss you eternia..."