Elias Iagnemma has done From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) in Chironico. The Dave Graham classical was put up in 2005 and everyone who has star rated it has given it five stars. "Incredible historical line, I only needed 3 sessions (the first two last winter under terrible conditions) to climb this difficulty." (c) Simone Antuzzi
In 2018, the Italian won the national Cup and tried some WCs. The same year he did his first 8B+ and started to focus more on outdoors. In total, he has now done eight boulders 8C and harder.
What are your winter plans and what about comps?
My winter plan is to go to Ticino and Fontainebleau to climb all the projects I have in mind and to resume competitions at the beginning of February.
TOP IMAGES OF THE WEEK
Solveig Korherr, who did her first 9a this summer, has done Pure Imagination (8c+) in Red River Gorge (KY). "A dream line in of the best the climbing spots! The one that got away last trip. Seems like I levelled up in two years. Three days this trip. So thrilled!!!"(c) Jon Shen
Could you please say something about your trip to Red River Gorge?
I came to the Red River Gorge with one goal in my mind which was to send „Pure Imagination“. I tried the route two years ago on my previous trip but I didn’t quite have the ability to send it back then. Ever since then I have dreamed to come back for it.
One week ago when I arrived here, I immediately hopped on it. I was really excited to be back in the Red and I could definitely tell that I levelled up. I felt much stronger on the holds especially in the sustained upper part but I was still struggling a bit with the lower crux with the famous crimp that cuts your finger and that is as thin as the sharp edge of a knife.
With some crisp conditions on my third day on it, I finally made it through the lower part on my third try but I was a little bit too tired and excited at the top crux and fell at the second last bolt. Knowing that it was now possible, I gave it a fourth try and it ended up being the final sending go!
Christof Rauch, who just three days ago did a 9a, has done Intermezzo XY gelöst (9a) in Plombergstein. "Amazing bouldery route. First ascent by the legend Klem Loskot. Maybe not the most impressive line but some of the best moves out there. Psyched to do it in my second session after falling 2 times on the last hard move. Teamascent with my boy Flo. Thanks for pushing me after your ascent and special thanks to my girl for the belay yesterday in terrible cold and humid conditions."
Three days ago you said that due to an elbow injury, "maybe I have to take some rest soon"?
Haha 😅 I couldn‘t resist 😅 Not sure, maybe I should take some rest but most people say it doesn‘t really help to do a complete rest for this kind of injury.
Zach Galla, who previously has done two 8C's, has done Grand Illusion (8C+) in Little Cottonwood Canyon (UT). The 25 moves roof climbing was put up by Nathaniel Coleman and also 9a+/b has been suggested for it, as it takes two minutes to climb. (c) Sean Faulker
How many sessions did it take and what made the trick in the end?
I stopped counting the sessions early on to not increase the pressure on myself. I think it was around 13 though? maybe more. It was a tough battle with conditions as the snow is starting to come through that area of Little Cottonwood. Not really sure how yesterday was the day. Conditions weren’t great, the bottom holds were a little damp, and it was warmer than I usually prefer. I competed at the US national lead semifinals earlier that day and didn’t make the final. I felt nicely warmed up and decided to head over there to give one go. I think the fact that a send that day seemed so unlikely to me allowed me to climb with no pressure and I found myself on top!
Niki Rusev, the 2021 Combined European Champion, has done the FA of Deutschland Meutschland (8C) in Rila Monastery. It is 24 moves roof climbing that took the 15-year-old, eight sessions and three minutes to climb, Insta video. (8a normally reports such boulder routes like 8Cc in order to separate them from boulders.) (c) Vladimir Pekov
"On the last try before the sunset, I managed to finish off this crazy beautiful roof project above the Rila forest. 24 hard and long moves involving many important heel hooks. Actually, it’s closer to lead climbing style than bouldering. I also suffered at the last part in which I had to do a compression and put maybe the trickiest heel hook that most of the time slipped, so everything had to be perfect. I used to drink coffeе in the last resort, just to wake me up a little bit for the try."
The Boulder Youth World Champion did amazingly also win one Euro Youth in Speed as well as twice made the podium in Lead. His previous hardest boulder was 8A+ but he has done two 9a's and he feels like this could be graded as a 9a if it was a route.
What are your winter plans?
Our plan is to climb as much as possible on rocks until the new year because the new comp calendar is full of challenges. There are so many more beautiful lines like this, including routes. I have no excuse not to climb. I have everything I need and I think I'll take advantage ;)
Christof Rauch, who previously in 2021 has done eleven routes 8c+ and 9a, has sent Frontman Deluxe (9a) in Allgäu. "Such a nice line! Short, powerful and crimpy. Love this style of climbing. Couldn‘t do one move some years ago, last week Domi convinced me to give it another try, I did the move and came close to send. Today everything clicked and I fought my way to the top. Thanks to Domi for the support!"
Interesting is that the Austrian started to focus on routes just in 2021. One reason for this is that he has pretty much done most of the hardcore boulders in his neighbourhood in combination with the travel restrictions. Furthermore, he has had different injuries in the last three years. In total, he has done 829 boulders 8A and harder although have been working full time for many years.
What is your next plan?
No special winter plans. I have a little elbow injury at the moment, so maybe I have to take some rest soon.
How much do you train and climb during a normal week?
I work 38,5h per week, from Monday till Thursday. Normally I train 2 days after work and climb 2 days at the weekend.
What about taking some time off and seeing how far you can reach?
I think there are much stronger guys out there and I need some money 😅
Austin Purdy has done Paint it Black (8C) in RMNP (CO). Interestingly, in the end it came down to some fingernails optimization that Austin describes below. Previoulsy, the 24-year-old has done 72 8B's, 17 8B+' and just one 8C, so we are talking about a record wide grade pyramid showing that there is room to make it more pointy.
"Paint It Black has been at the top of the list of boulders I want to do in Colorado since I moved here, but after trying it a little bit a few years ago I wrote it off due to my fat fingers not fitting inside of the tiny slot crux crimp. This year though I have been feeling a lot stronger and decided to return to it. I immediately felt a lot better on the boulder and also figured out that I could file down the tops of my fingernails the make my fingers thinner and fit them into the slot just deep enough to make it possible. After this discovery, the boulder went down relatively quickly!"
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
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