Gergő Vályi ticks Estado Critico (9a)

Gergő Vályi jumps two grades by doing Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. The 19-year-old Hungarian has won six European Youth Cups and has previously sent six 8c’s.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your trip?
It is my first time in Spain, and I came here with a campervan for a month. My main goal was Estado Critico because I haven't climbed 9a before and I thought, this 35-meter-long endurance climbing would be perfect for me. I needed 7 tries for the send. After the 6th try, when I fell from the last hard move, I knew, I would send it the next day. I am really happy to send one of the king lines of Siurana. And now, in the next weeks, I will try to climb a lot of routes between 8a and 8c, and check the moves in something harder for which I will come back.

What are your 2024 plans?
I will compete on the lead world cups and I really hope to make it to the semifinal and I want to climb more outdoors and climb some more 9a or harder.

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Sera Gearhart sends Power Slave (8A+)

Sera Gearhart has completed Power Slave (8A+) in Red Rock (NV). The 26-year-old is #6 in the 8a ranking game after having done eight boulders 8A+ or 8B the last 12 months.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I thought Power Slave was really hard. Last season I fell off the end move really late in the year and it got too hot to come back. This year I thought it would be easier but every move still felt like effort. I fell off the last move again the session before sending. Two of my friends Allison and Lucy encouraged me to try the feet first beta for the end because it's much less powerful. I reworked the end beta this way and then struggled to even get there once. I finally sent almost 5 hours into the session, the second time making it through the crux.

Iris Bielli does Endangered (8c)

Iris Bielli has repeated Stefano Carnati’s Endangered (8c) in Canzo. “The climbing is technical on small, slippery holds that require cold temperatures and crispy air. On Saturday, I finally found the perfect conditions and was able to climb this beautiful line. (8 tries in total).

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing at the age of 14 after practising artistic gymnastics for several years. Initially, I only used to go climbing at the crag and in the gym, but then, after three years, I discovered multi-pitch climbing and became passionate about it. I like visiting new places and experiencing the feeling of freedom and emptiness under my feet while climbing big walls. I currently study Environmental engineering at university and in my free time I mostly enjoy onsight climbing and challenging myself on slab and technical routes.

Will Bosi does Sleepwalker 8C (+)

William Bosi has sent Sleepwalker (8C+) in Black Velvet Canyon. It was set up as an 8C+ in 2019 by James Webb and the grade was confirmed multiple times until Zander Waller found a new sequence and gave it 8C. After Bosi having sent it on his first go on the third session, he thinks it was an 8C challenge for him. ”Incredible boulder! So psyched to send this king line! Now onto the sit.”

The Sit is Daniel Woods’, not yet repeated, Return of the Sleepwalker (9A).