Jean-Baptiste Jourjon has done La Novena Puerta (8c+) in Santa Linya. The 44-year-old also onsighted his second 8b, La ruta del sol (8b) after having done his first in 2021.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Santa Linya is a quite similar style compared to my home crag La Balme where I'm pretty good. Powerful sections are not too demanding for finger strength, and there are some kneebars.

When Novena Puerta was put up, I think there were already a few kneebars, but on which you couldn't put as much pressure with regular or even reinforced pants, as you can now with stiff rubber. The route has approx three sections for about 60 moves. It starts with a boulder with a huge drop knee, then power endurance to a good rest next to the end of the 7c+ to the right. The second section is quite bouldery, with a technical "friction" kneebar that helps catch a mono static before holding the swing (scary for the finger). This beta can't work without rubber on the knee. Medium rest brings us to the last section ending with a nice dyno from a slopey three finger hold. The jump is easy by itself but it's hard to keep enough body tension after so long and very steep climb. I spent 4 sessions during a week's holiday and 8 to 10 tries. It's always hard to choose the right project when climbing quite far from home, neither too easy nor too hard. Spending a lot of time at the same crag on the same route without guarantee of success is hard when there is so much easier nice stuff around to do, where you are pretty sure you would send within a day. I could do the moves at first work go, but I felt pumped quickly in the sections. Then came the mental game: you can't know how far you are from sending, you just have to try hard. I fell two times at the last move before sending it. I sent it at the first go of the day after a rest day, quite early because of conditions getting worse, warmer with no wind.

Can you also tell us something about your 8b onsight?
For the 8b, I felt relaxed after sending the 8c+ and still quite fresh. I was advised it was a good one for an onsight try, so I had a good mindset. I needed to try something completely different from redpoint project. I could see most holds from the ground, but I still had to improvise and change decisions during the climb. I didn't have much in the tank to allow mistakes, I had to go dynamic a few times with no possible return. Hopefully, the landing holds were correct enough, especially for the last spicy move, just before the warm sun touched the rock.

It seems you are peaking at age 44?
I don't know if I'm at peak, as I had never climbed there it's hard to say. At pure power, I'm certainly weaker than a decade ago but I'm more experienced to optimize the betas quickly. During bad weather on winter days, I've been more to the gym, and modern bouldering didn't suit me well: painful joints and not feeling strong on the rock. So I went back to rational basics in March and April in a more structured way to better focus on weaknesses and avoid injuries: finger strength, locks off, old school bouldering, and loops between 20 and 40 moves.

Stephan Vogt, who did his first 8C in 2021 but only two 8A’s, due to work, last year, has sent The Big Island (8C) in Fontainebleau. (c) Max Rauber

Can you tell us more about your ascent?
I briefly tried the boulder (only one short session) a year and a half ago. Back then I could hardly do any of the moves. This style (compression/slopers) is something I am usually not very good at. It was great to see that the winter training payed off. In January I injured my right ring finger during a training session. As I am working as a routesetter next to my filmmaking jobs I had a hard time letting the finger heal. I was super happy to find out that The Big Island was the perfect solution for me and my finger :)

I felt really good on the boulder and quickly managed to do all the moves. Putting it together took all of the three weeks I had in Bleau and I climbed it on my last day in pretty bad conditions. All in all I think it took me 10ish sessions.

When I started working on the boulder I did what I often do when falling in love with a project. I watched the videos of all the sends I could find on the internet. Watching Chri (Schweiger) send the boulder with his incredible power and psyche became part of my rest day routine. Chri climbed the boulder only a few months ago. I hardly knew him. Although I climbed in comps alongside him, filmed him during a German Youth Cup seven-ish years ago, and trained with him during my time on the German Climbing team I hardly knew him. The news of his tragic death moved me deeply. It put things into perspective. It changed the way I approached the boulder on all the following days. My thoughts go out to Chri and all those who were close to him!

Loic Zehani has done the FA of Mossoul (9b) in Orgon. The 21-year-old has previously put up four 9b's and five 9a+' at the same crag. (c) Lunar Fox

"30 hard moves on a big overhang then an easy wall for the finish. In fact, it's a succession of 4 boulder sections without rest. A large part of Le poisson pilote (9a+) then a new and hard exit into the right. The movements are very varied and the climb is extremely physical. It's hard for me to give a grade to each bouldery sequence but I'll try: 8A/A+ (no rest) 7C+ (very bad rest) 8A hard (no rest) 7B and a 6c for the finish. Nowadays my hardest route and after "mature" reflections I propose 9b/b+ for this route. So happy to climb this stamina power test."

Stefano Carnati, who previously has done five 9a+, has repeated Stefano Ghisolfi's Erebor (9b) in Arco. "Unforgettable moment, good flow!"

The PhD student in environmental sciences at the University of Como, a three hour drive from Arco, comments on Insta, "...sometimes the weekend warrior mode has its pros. In this situation it definitely gave me time to recognize a better approach forward by analyzing every finest detail in such a way that I could work on my weaknesses during my training routine and possibly be gradually more complete. Since the climb was at my very limit, after each session I was always telling myself that every slightest thing I would improve was ok to keep the process on."

When did you start trying it and how many sessions in total?
I started trying it seriously in November during the weekends (1 or two days). I already had a few sessions a few years ago after Ste Ghiso's ascent. Around 20 sessions in total.

Cody Roth has made the FA of Flipping the Bird (9a) in Arco. On Insta he comments, ”The name is inspired by both the crux move that tore a huge hole in my middle finger, and by those far braver than me on the front lines in Ukraine and Iran, as well as the LGBTQ community here in Italy that stands up to Meloni, her goons and her party’s absurd policies and dangerous ideology." (c) Fabian Poels

How does it feel stepping up your game and doing your third 8c+ and harder, at 39, in the last month?
I did my own on research and I read, on the internet, that a segment of the population spontaneously combusts when they turn 40, so I'm anxiously trying to get it all in before October, just in case ;-). Honestly, I'm just trying to take it in stride. If it's all I get this year, I'm more than okay with that. In mid January I took four weeks off due to chronic elbow tendonitis, I didn't think then that I'd be where I'm at now.

What are your strengths and talents making this possible? You work a full-time management position at Vertical-life and climb just three days a week?
Three if I'm lucky! Maybe my talent is not overthinking it and being comfortable not being in control. The night before I did this climb, we had friends over for dinner, I probably had one cocktail more than what would have been ideal, and I went to bed later than I should have. I wasn't even sure we were going to Grottosauro the next day. Growing up, my mom always told me showing up is the most important part. I didn't believe her when I was younger, but now I see what she means. Oftentimes you get something over the line in spite of and not because of, and the less you worry about yourself and every little detail, the more open you are to every possibility. As for my work, I'm really lucky to work with an amazingly talented and kind group. My work keeps me balanced and it feels good to contribute and to be appreciated beyond just climbing. Vertical-Life also allocate some flexibility in my schedule, so I'm lucky in that regard too.

What motivates you in climbing?
I think it's the friendships, curiosity, surprise and discovery that keeps me going.

When is your next vacation and where? Is it about time to raise the bar to 9a+?
I'm going back to the US to see family in May, but I probably won't have much time to climb. I'd love to paddle some rivers in Scotland later this summer and my wife and I have a couple summer concerts on our radar. I wouldn't rule out going back to the Frankenjura and trying Action Directe a little more, but it's a little hard to line up with the weather there. There's plenty of things around Arco and Italy that give me my climbing fix. As for 9a+, I might have already done that with my FA of, M.E. I eat Dust, six years ago. Doing another would be nice, but it's not a must for me. Honestly, if you told me I could either do Action Directe or a 9a+, I'd probably choose Action Directe; and I'd still view that as raising my bar.


You bolted this one ground up? Is there still potential around Arco?
I did. I'm a bolting dilettante, but I enjoy going ground-up whenever feasible, and contributing where I can. The 8mm removable bolts make it a lot easier and safer nowadays, and the hole they leave is nearly invisible in steep terrain. I was hiking with my dog this winter, when I noticed that maybe there could be just enough features to add a line where I did. Around Arco, there's plenty of potential still. It's just a matter of hiking and discovering something completely new, or coming back to known places like this with a fresh set of eyes.

Emilie Gerhardt, who last year completed roughly ten boulders 8A and harder, reports on Insta that she has done Taijutsu (8A+) in Valle Bavona. (c) Julius Westphal

Can you tell us more about the trip and the 8A+ ascent?
Unfortunately, we only had four climbing days in total. Here are so many good-looking lines, so it’s hard to choose which one I‘d like to try first :)“Taijutsu” sums up my style quite well as I like steep boulders with many moves. After checking out all the moves I sent it directly.

Fabrice Landry has done the FA of Le consommateur (9a) in Manjo-Carn. The 32-year-old has previously done four FAs 8c to 9a in the same crag. (c) Arthur Delicque

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Happy to have succeeded in my 9a training path. This is a variation of my main objective, Chicken deluxe (9a+) which Lucien Martinez did the FA of last December. It shares crux two and three but avoids the first pitch estimated at 8c and replaces it with a 7c by starting in a neighbouring route.

I will take the opportunity to communicate the potential of this sector, which with 6 routes in the 9th grade without counting the variants has enough to attract the best and deserves to be better known. Not to mention the latest addition, a new natural 9b project, no reinforcement, no sika, nothing at all for 25 intense movements without rest!