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Bianca 8a+ OS by Andrea Locatelli (11)

Bianca 8a+ OS by Andrea Locatelli (11)

Andrea Locatelli, who has onsighted eight 8a's in 2022, has onsighted Bianca (8a+) in Somplago. The eleven-year-old did his first 8c last year but this year he has focused on onsight, having done eight 8a's. We reached out to his father to get some comments.

"Last year Andrea climbed his first 8c in six attempts and realized that with a few more attempts he could reach even higher levels. However, the choice was to improve the climbing onsight, certainly much more useful to train for the competitions but also to deal more easily with the less difficult sections of a possible hard project. In fact, at the beginning of 2022, Andrea worked on a new project for 5/6 sessions equipped by a friend, probably between 8c/8c+. When I realized that he felt too much pressure we decided together to temporarily abandon it... and dedicate ourselves to climbing onsight or short redpoints in the day, both at home but especially when we are travelling. Then came the first 8a and now 8a+ onsight!

I must admit that Andrea has a good reading of the rock and excellent use of the feet, and also his mobility helps him a lot. Certainly climbing onsight allows him to express himself without pressure and amuses him. And at 11, I think it’s more important than adults that climbing is a game. I think also that climbing to these levels at his age will allow him in the future to be more effective and efficient in the hard redpoint projects!"

Paradise Found 8C FA by James Squire

Paradise Found 8C FA by James Squire

James Squire, who previously has done four 8C's, has done the FA of Paradise Found (8C) in Hartland. It took him 15 sessions and there is a video on Insta.

"I first tried the project in summer 2020 but took a break from climbing and training in 2021. This year I spent around 15 sessions working on the boulder. This is a totally different style from many hard boulders. It does not involve sharp holds or small crimps instead, the difficulty comes from powerful bicep intensive moves, body tension, and complex beta. To train for the boulder, I spent more time lifting weights in the gym to cope with the athleticness of the boulder. Over the last 6 months, I had a weight gain of around ~8kg. Initially, I was a bit worried this might affect my fingers, but after some time to get used to it, my climbing and body, in general, feel stronger and more stable. I believe this is the hardest boulder I have ever climbed and is one of the best super hard boulders in the UK."

What about the ladder in the picture? Where does the boulder start?
It starts where I am in the Insta video (starts on two big undercuts). I started off the ladder as the beach level changes by a few meters week to week. Sometimes you can pull on normally. Tide and seasons affect it. An unusual condition you have to take into account when trying the boulder! You also can’t access it at high tide. So you can only try for a few hours of the day.

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Slovenia #1 in ECH in Munich

Slovenia, a country with just over 2 million inhabitants, was overall the best performing nation at the European Championship in Munich. Besides Janja Garnbret’s two gold medals, they had four more finalists out of which Luka Potocar placed second. Runner-up was France with five finalists including …

Men Top-8 into the Combined final

Men Top-8 into the Combined final

The male Combined finals will start on Thursday at 15.00 with Boulder followed by Lead at 17.00. (c) Petr Chodura 1. Adam Ondra CZE 690 + 1 000 = 1 690 2. Luka…

Female Top-8 Combined on Wednesday

Female Top-8 Combined on Wednesday

Based on the Combined "World Cup" points, the Top-8 females will compete in the new (Olympic) Combined format on Wednesday. If you have not participated in both…

Uznik wins over Avezou with 0.1 points

Uznik wins over Avezou with 0.1 points

Nicolai Uznik won by doing two boulders in six attempts out of which one flash. This was just one attempt less than Sam Avezou. In the live streaming they give …

Janja superior once again

Janja superior once again

Janja Garnbret climbed with ease passing Jessica Pilz high point. The biggest drama was actually Janja’s big whipper partly upside down, having done a big diago…

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Legacy 9a by Paul Robinson

Legacy 9a by Paul Robinson

Paul Robinson has done the third ascent of Legacy (9a) in Rocklands. It was found and tried by Dave Graham as a scary highball. Later Fred Nicole bolted it and tried it for five years. In 2019, Giuliano Cameroni got the permission to try it and made the FA and then Nicole made the first repeat few days later. Lizzy Ellison

Paul Robinson says on Insta that it could also be graded 8B+. "The route is short so it really is hard to say which grade to use but it sure is a stunner!"

So what do you think are the pros and cons with the bolts?
You kind of need to rope climb it because the landing is really bad with a tree and a few of the holds are fragile at the end and could risk breaking and if you fell there you would die.

Brace for the Cure 8C+ FA by Matt Fultz - updated

Brace for the Cure 8C+ FA by Matt Fultz - updated

Matt Fultz, who previously has done four 8C+, has done the FA of Brace for the Cure (8C+) in Green 45. It starts in Jade (8B+) and then continues on small crimpers in a left loop. Video on his Insta.

"This is quite a unique problem. Each move individually isn’t too bad if you hit the holds perfectly. But the crimps are sharp, small, and precise. Often I would grab one of the holds wrong by just a little bit, then would be frozen for the next move. So satisfying to send and hit every hold perfectly for once!".

Could you say something about the process how you took it down?
The problem starts by doing the classic Jade (8B+) into a crux transition where it’s really hard to get your fingers perfectly on the precise crimps. Then you finish with a 1-move 7C+ which feels much harder when you’re a little pumped! I fell off the last hard move back in 2020 right before I moved away from Colorado. I came back in the summer of 2021 but only had one session on it before I got injured. This year, I trained in Boise through May specifically for this problem and it payed off!

Gakido 8C+ FA by Nomura Shinichiro

Shinichiro Nomura did the FA of Gakido (8C+)in Chigobutai, three months ago. "Finally i sent the old project, known as one of the biggest japanese routes. In addition to bad holdings, i struggle with the worst positioning that i’ve never felt, compared with some over V15 projects. However i managed to send by my sense that i found. Although Japanese routes require a lot of moves and are hard to connect as a whole, this route is short and severe. but the shape of boulder is awesome so I am really happy that i sent it." Here is the great video.

Duffy wins also in Lead in Innsbruck

Duffy wins also in Lead in Innsbruck

Colin Duffy, who won the Boulder WC in Innsbruck three days ago, got the victory also in Lead. Although the 18-year-old was just two holds above the #6, he was pretty superior as he had good control of the last five moves where the others struggled more. In the short Molly Thompson-Smith interview, he commented. "I was feeling quite tired both physically and mentally. I think keeping yourself together through that many rounds of hard competition is really hard on the mind, but as soon as I stepped on the stage for Lead finals I was right back in the zone. I was just happy to climb. I knew the stakes were possible to get the double win, but at the end of the day I really just wanted to climb to my potential."
Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC

Runner-up was Ao Yurikusa - JPN, who was #6 last week in Innsbruck in the University World Championship, beating Jesse Grupper -USA on time. Noteworthy is that USA had three in the Top-11, Japan had four in the Top-12 and Germany three in the Top-13. Complete results

In the Olympics Colin was #7 and last in the final. However, had he not made a false start with 0.002 seconds against Alberto Gines López in the Speed, he would probably have gotten the Olympic gold.

Janja wins again and saves the show

Janja wins again and saves the show

Janja Garnbret, who has not competed since she won the Boulder WC in Meiringen in April, won in Innsbruck showing her superiority. Reaching hold 27, she rested and hesitated for 45 seconds. Looking down and checking the clock the spectators salute her and she waves back and after one more chalk up she goes for the cross-over dyno footless move and as she controls it the crowd goes wild and Janja smiles as she understands that she probably will win again. Then she continues ten more moves. Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC

Commenting afterwards she said, "It’s good to be back! I think it was a good decision to skip Boulder comps, I could come back refreshed with a fresh mind, so I really enjoyed the weekend. I won’t lie, I was nervous because I haven’t done a competition for so long, but I enjoyed the whole weekend and it just feels so good to be back. I need to thank the routesetting team because they did an amazing job. I love hard routes and especially after semi’s was too easy, we got something completely opposite – probably the hardest route I’ve ever climbed on the World Cup circuit! It’s amazing and I hope this continues the whole season, she was nervous but that it was a good decision to skip the Boulder comps."

1. Janja Garbret SLO 38+
2. Chaehyun Seo KOR 27+
3. Brooke Raboutou USA 27+
4. Laura Rogora ITA 27+

The ranking 2 - 4 was decided by who climbed faster and it should be mentioned that Chaehyun also was the one being closest to scoring 28. Janja loved the very hard route but for the rest of the field, it actually looked too hard.

Overall, the 23-year-old has now won 21 of the 39 World Cups and World Championships she has participated in.

Pink Lightening Ultra 8B by Courtney Arnold

Pink Lightening Ultra 8B by Courtney Arnold

Courtney Arnold has done Pink Lightening Ultra (8B) in Priest Draw. "Guess I just needed those good midday temps. Soooo pscyhed!!"

The 22-year-old has previously done five 8A+, all of them in the last 13 months. In the 8a ranking game, she is #8. Surprisingly, she only started climbing in 2016 and it was not until 2019 that she began climbing outdoors. The picture is from last year when she did her first 8A+, Euro Trash (8A+).

Five female semi Tops and Grupper wins male semi

Five female semi Tops and Grupper wins male semi

Janja Garnbret, Laura Rogora, Brooke Raboutou, Jessica Pilz and Chaehyun Seo topped the semifinal route in Innsbruck. These were also the five Top ranked in the qualification. Natalia Grossman, Natsuki Tanii and Vita Lukan did also make it to the final.

Among the male, Ao Yurikusa from Japan and Jesse Grupper from the USA reached 45+ and climbed the highest in the semi after having been #6 respectively #11 in the qualification. In his two last Lead World Cups, they were #8 and #10 respectively was #5 and #7. The others making it to the final were; Colin Duffy, Jakob Schubert, Luka Potocar, Yannick Flohé, Taisei Homma, Alex Megos and Satone Yoshida.

The women's final start on Sunday at 19.00 followed by the men's. Photo: Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC

Pain makes me stronger 8c+ by Chiara Hanke

Pain makes me stronger 8c+ by Chiara Hanke

Chiara Hanke reports on Insta that she has done Pain makes me stronger, every day! (8c+) in Frankenjura. "I have to say that this route felt relatively easy for me, compared to the routes "Psychotherapie" 8c and "New Orleans Heavy Weight Division 8c, which I climbed both a few days ago. I personally would suggest the grade 8b+/c, but I would like to point out that the difficulty is very subjective and I don't want to devalue the incredibly cool climbing or the performance of others in any way or form. " (c) Cristoph Hanke

In 2019, she become the first female in Frankenjura to do a 9a, Sever the Wicked Hand commenting. ”I started climbing at the age of 13 after a shoulder surgery. Before that I was passionate about wakeboarding. Actually I just wanted to get fit for wakeboarding again quickly. A climbing hall had opened around the corner from me at the time. That was so much fun for me that I stayed with it. Then everything went very fast: competitions, member of the national team, more competitions. I didn‘t get to really climb outside until the end of 2017, when I started climbing again after a knee injury lasting almost 3 months. That was a lot of fun for me and motivation! In 2018 I only climbed outside besides training. Wallstreet was certainly a highlight of it. For me it was and still is important to climb many routes and climbb in general. I really don't like to try routes to often. Then I have the feeling not to climb any more and I miss just doing moves."