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Fourth 8b+ by Mirko Caballero (11)

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Fourth 8b+ by Mirko Caballero (11)

Mirko Caballero has done his fourth 8b+, Ubermensch in Pinnacles. "Hard short but bouldery route. Initially 8b by Chris Sharma, but it's conglomerate rock, and several holds have broken off, so it's now considered hard 8b+." Mirkos progress is just amazing as his personal best last year was 7c+ and this year he has done 19 routes 8a to 8b+ in all styles including two onsights. (c) Anthony Lapomardo

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


New Combined format to be tested in ECH Munich

The European Championships, in Munich, starts on 11/8 and finishes on 17-18/8 with the Combined final events. The Combined qualification rankings are based on (World Cup) points gained in the Lead and Boulder events at the beginning of the Championships. In other words, 850 points might be needed to…

Outsiders in Euro Champ in Munich

The European Championship in Munich starts 11/8 and some will compete for four days straight doing three rounds in Boulder and Lead respectively. This means that the athletes only doing one discipline have an advantage and that goes especially for the male athletes only doing Lead and the female ath…

10 nations share the 18 medals in Graz

The third and final day of the Euro Youth Championship in Graz started with the semifinal for the oldest juniors. Surprisingly, both the boys and the girls competed on almost identical boulders as the final Youth A boulders from yesterday. Several coaches were upset as this is against the onsight fo…

Korosec and Mabboni Youth A winners in Graz

On the second day of the European Youth Championship in Graz, Allesia Mabboni from Italy won Youth A making two tops and four zones (24). Runner-up was Iziar Martinez from Spain who flashed the two boulders which Allesia could not do but she could only make three zones. The Spaniard was #15 in the …

Very hard boulders in ECH - Graz

The European Youth Championship in Bouldering started today in Graz. Unfortunately, the boulders were very hard and both climbers and coaches were upset. The Norweigian Head Coach, Reino "Nicki" Horak said that for the girls, it was the worst and hardest setting he has ever seen. "It was much worse …

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Boulder Start World Standard Ethics

The problem occurs when you have to give instructions, and how it should be done, on how to start a problem. Here are the most common way to do it and we are always talking about adding to the name. Sit Start (SS): Your ass leaves the pad last and statically Defined start (DS): Exact position for hands (feet) - USA style

Belay technique and soft falls

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Belay technique and soft falls

Quite often you hear about a small girl taking a very hard fall, injuring herself, due to her much heavier boyfriend or father have created a very hard fall. Here are some practical tips on how you can give soft falls also for the small climbers making them less afraid and possibly climb harder in the future. The picture tries to show that bending knees makes it impossible to sit down and helps the heavier belayer to jump upwards.

Jacopo Larcher gets Jungle Speed (9a)

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Jacopo Larcher gets Jungle Speed (9a)

Jacopo Larcher who some weeks ago made headlines from Red River Gorge managed to do the 4rth (?) ascent of Daniel Jung's Jungle speed. From Jacopo's words, the short route breaks into a 3 bolts boulder problem followed by a 7c+ish overhanging slab. The crux revolves around a very hard shoulder move, followed by a big reach to a good two finger pocket. The 23 years old Italian climber has more of a "mountain" background, but recently took more time for sport climbing, with pretty good results. Although telling us that he's having great fun on route climbing, his focus is not on long-term projects (both of his recent 9a's were climbed in a few tries). And as he would definitely like to transpose his skill into mountain sized projects at some point, no doubts we'll hear a lot more coming from the guy in the future. Picture : Jacopo in Jungle Speed, credit : Mélissa le Névé

Bock the king of Frankenjura

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Bock the king of Frankenjura

Frankenjura is with some 10 000 routes spread out over almost 1 000 sectors one of the largest climbing areas in the world. There are 14 routes graded 9a and harder and Markus Bock has put up all but Action Directe (which is ranked as the hardest 9a). Out of the official Top-50 hardest routes in Frankenjura, Markus Bock has put up 47! Interview is coming up including also the use of glue and the liberal down climbing ethics in Frankenjura. Markus is known for his hard gradings and only some 10 % of his hardest routes have been down graded. The 33 year old was also one of the first who officially started to give personal grades for most of his boulder repeats in Switzerland some ten years ago.

8B flash by Jimmy Webb

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8B flash by Jimmy Webb

James Webb has made a very impressive flash of the well confirmed 8B, Roses and blue jays in Great Barrington. "The most spectacular boulder. Freak good conditions today and I was able to climb the boulder perfectly making not a single mistake. A dream come true." Jimmy is #4 in the ranking game but based on his continous progress during the last six years, he is a contendor for stepping up as a contendor of the best boulderer in the world 2013. The picture is from an 8a interview in 2010.

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Increased price differentiation

It has never been cheaper to buy climbing equipment. During the last years we have seen price decreases for Ropes, Harnesses, Quick draws and Shoes. Here are some examples of the lowest and highest price on the global market. In general, the lowest prices are found in Spain meanwhile the highest prices are found in Norway and Brazil. Rope70: Euro 100 - Euro 350 Harness: Euro 35 - Euro 200 QD's: Euro 8 - Euro 70 Shoes: Euro 45 - Euro 230 It should be mentioned that in some chains in Spain and France, they have even lower prices for some of their own branding. If you have more precise figures, please share them.

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The Dagger 8B+ by Ned Feehally

After coming very close last year, British all round crusher finished off his one year project, probably in arctic conditions. Ned is known for his incredible grit stone talents (featured in the movie Life on Hold), after repeating some of the boldest and hardest lines in England, but he is a complete bouldering dark horse. However, during his last year trip to Ticino, he managed to repeat hard lines such as La Boule, La Proue (8B), including a 30 minutes ascent of Confession (8B-8B+) Check some of his last year’s climbs in this video from Sandstones Media: