LATEST NEWS

8c+ by Piotr Schab (16)

NUMBERS

8c+ by Piotr Schab (16)

Piotr Schab has done Mind Control, 8c+ in Oliana. "Still pretty wet at the top, but didn't fuck it up this time :) less than 10 tries. One of the most beautiful routes I have ever tried." Three days earlier, the 16 year old onsighted Marroncita, 8b and he is now #10 in the ranking game. Two years ago he was #5 in the Youth World Championship. (c) Elias Holzknecht

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Luca Bana and the FA of Extrasistole 9a

Luca Bana did the FA of Extrasistole galoppante (9a) in December 2021. "Outstanding project on the 'heart' sector, bolted in 2010 by Yuri parimbelli and remained unclimbed until now. A mix of big exposure, rock quality and savage moves makes it one of the best hard routes of the area!"

Japan, USA and Slovenia dominated the 2022 WC

Here is the Combined national World Cup ranking in 2022. It was more or less the same ranking in 2021, aside from Japan creating an even bigger gap between themselves and the other countries chasing them. The Czech Republic has dropped in ranking due to the absence of Adam Ondra. Remarkably, Sloveni…

MORE NEWS

Jan Hojer - The big power house

NUMBERS

Jan Hojer - The big power house

GuiGui Mondet who did The Big Island, 8C some weeks ago watched Jan hojer repeating it. "He did it easy. It was so impressive, he is definitely my idol! I think a possible 8B sit start into an 8C, could be 9A? Adam or Jan can do it but it is to hard for me." 188 cm and 79 kilos Jan comments, "The Big Island is totally my style. I can probably reclimb it pretty fast and I believe that I might add some moves into that boulder with some work. I didn't really try the sit yet because it was super cold the day. I only made one quick "try" where I broke off a little foot- hold and due to freezing feet and hands I decided to call it a day. But I'm psyched to get on the sit some day if I can resist all the other boulders in the forest Which temperature do you think is the best for bouldering? "I like temperatures around zero to try really hard stuff or friction depending climbs but in 10-15 degrees a climbing day is more enjoyable for me :)" What are your strong and weak points? "I guess I'm good at athletic climbs, compression boulders and big moves... well, I'm not flexible and another weakness is finger strength, I train it a lot but I'm probably to fat to get super strong on crimps :) You have previously said you only boulders 4-9 hours a week. Do you do any complementary training like body power? "No, I don't do any other training or running, just a little bit of stretching... campusing boulders and campus boarding is everything I do to improve my body power! I also do some route setting at Chimpanzodrome in Frechen. (c) DAV

NUMBERS

First 8B+ by Takuya Nakajima

Takuya Nakajima has done Koyamada's Catharsis in Shiobara which did get famous as Tomoko Ogawa, last year, did the first female 8B+ by doing it.

Jungle Speed, 9a by Ryan Pasquil

NUMBERS

Jungle Speed, 9a by Ryan Pasquil

DMM reports that Ryan Pasquil has done his first 9a, by quickly over three sessions doing Jungle Speed in Siurana. "It probably wouldn’t get 9a in Britain but as I’m on holiday I’ll take the tick." The 17 m very bouldery route was set up 2010 by Daniel Jung and has seen a hand ful repeats just the last four months. (c) Ray Wood