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Pink Lightening Ultra 8B by Courtney Arnold

Pink Lightening Ultra 8B by Courtney Arnold

Courtney Arnold has done Pink Lightening Ultra (8B) in Priest Draw. "Guess I just needed those good midday temps. Soooo pscyhed!!"

The 22-year-old has previously done five 8A+, all of them in the last 13 months. In the 8a ranking game, she is #8. Surprisingly, she only started climbing in 2016 and it was not until 2019 that she began climbing outdoors. The picture is from last year when she did her first 8A+, Euro Trash (8A+).

Five female semi Tops and Grupper wins male semi

Five female semi Tops and Grupper wins male semi

Janja Garnbret, Laura Rogora, Brooke Raboutou, Jessica Pilz and Chaehyun Seo topped the semifinal route in Innsbruck. These were also the five Top ranked in the qualification. Natalia Grossman, Natsuki Tanii and Vita Lukan did also make it to the final.

Among the male, Ao Yurikusa from Japan and Jesse Grupper from the USA reached 45+ and climbed the highest in the semi after having been #6 respectively #11 in the qualification. In his two last Lead World Cups, they were #8 and #10 respectively was #5 and #7. The others making it to the final were; Colin Duffy, Jakob Schubert, Luka Potocar, Yannick Flohé, Taisei Homma, Alex Megos and Satone Yoshida.

The women's final start on Sunday at 19.00 followed by the men's. Photo: Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Male Lead dominated by USA and Japan

Male Lead dominated by USA and Japan

In the male Lead ranking of 2018, Sean Bailey was #18 and the highest ranked from the USA. The second highest was #43. In 2019, Sean had advanced to #9 and Jess…

Garnbret and Grupper win the semi in Villars

Janja Garnbret was the only athlete to top the semifinal route in Villars. Runner-up was Chaehyun Seo and the third was Brooke Raboutou, which also was the final ranking in Innsbruck last weekend. Among the male, Jesse Grupper got the highest ahead of Colin Duffy. Interestingly, Team Japan got four …

5.09 and 5.04 by Kiromal Katibin

In the Villar Speed qualification, Kiromal Katibin from Indonesia set two World Records. In his first run, he did 5.09 and then 5.04 in his second race, video. Runner-up was Long Cao from China with 5.22. Besides the several World Records in 2022, the level has been pushed significantly and 5.58 was…

Michaela Kiersch leads the current 12-month female combined ranking

Michaela Kiersch leads the current 12-month female combined ranking

Over the last 12 months, Michaela Kiersch has sent two 8B+ boulders and one 9a route. There might be some unreported ascents out there from other female climber…

MORE NEWS

Pain makes me stronger 8c+ by Chiara Hanke

Pain makes me stronger 8c+ by Chiara Hanke

Chiara Hanke reports on Insta that she has done Pain makes me stronger, every day! (8c+) in Frankenjura. "I have to say that this route felt relatively easy for me, compared to the routes "Psychotherapie" 8c and "New Orleans Heavy Weight Division 8c, which I climbed both a few days ago. I personally would suggest the grade 8b+/c, but I would like to point out that the difficulty is very subjective and I don't want to devalue the incredibly cool climbing or the performance of others in any way or form. " (c) Cristoph Hanke

In 2019, she become the first female in Frankenjura to do a 9a, Sever the Wicked Hand commenting. ”I started climbing at the age of 13 after a shoulder surgery. Before that I was passionate about wakeboarding. Actually I just wanted to get fit for wakeboarding again quickly. A climbing hall had opened around the corner from me at the time. That was so much fun for me that I stayed with it. Then everything went very fast: competitions, member of the national team, more competitions. I didn‘t get to really climb outside until the end of 2017, when I started climbing again after a knee injury lasting almost 3 months. That was a lot of fun for me and motivation! In 2018 I only climbed outside besides training. Wallstreet was certainly a highlight of it. For me it was and still is important to climb many routes and climbb in general. I really don't like to try routes to often. Then I have the feeling not to climb any more and I miss just doing moves."

Grossman and Meul #1 and #2 again

Grossman and Meul #1 and #2 again

Natalia Grossman topped the four boulders in five tries in Innsbruck and won her fifth consecutive Boulder Cup. As in Brixen, two weeks ago, Hannah Meul from Germany got the silver, and she was actually just two tries behind. Miho Nonaka was the best among the three girls from Japan in the final and got the bronze by doing two boulders but no more zones, showing the superiority of Grossman and Meul. Photo: Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC Complete results

Bonoto por natureza 8A+ by Jordana Agapito

Bonoto por natureza 8A+ by Jordana Agapito

Jordana Agapito has done Bonito por natureza (8A+) in Eco vila. Full video on her Insta. This was her second 8A+ and the first female ascent. The 33-year-old did her first 8A+, Kalunga, in 2015.

"When I sent Kalunga in 2015 it was a huge surprise for me and everyone because I was very new to climbing. I had only been climbing for three years. Kalunga is a crimpy line that I liked and it happened, I was just having fun hahaha not expecting to send a V12. After that, lots of people started to try the climb and also doubt the grade and all that stuff we know... So I continued my path climbing, training and travelling a lot. I quit my job for a period, went to Rocklands, Patagonia, lived for one year in a Van in the US, etc. Always climbing.

Three years later, I had to come back to Brazil to start a regular job again. I changed my routine to working, training hard and climbing outdoor on weekends. Back to my home crag, I started to remember all the boulders I dreamed of. Bonito por Natureza was, for sure, one of them. Not only because of the grade but because it is super classic. And I confess it was always in the back of my mind that I wanted to climb V12 again. I think I first tried Bonito 6 years ago, but at the time it felt impossible! Hahaha When I came back stronger and with more experience, it happened. I'm sooo psyched!!!"

Colin Duffy wins in Innsbruck

Colin Duffy wins in Innsbruck

Colin Duffy from the USA was the only one to Top three boulders in the final, winning his first World Cup victory. The 18-year-old's previous best was a bronze in a Lead WC last year, besides being #7 in the Olympics and winning two Youth World Championships. Overall, the route setting was very good in the semi but in the final, the first two boulders were way too easy and way too hard. Runner up was Dohyun Lee (19) from Korea who was #4 in Brixen two weeks ago. Yoshiyuki Ogata from Japan, who won the semi, got the bronze. Both Korea and Japan had two finalists strengthening the trend of Asia domination. Complete results

Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC took the picture and they got some comments from Duffy. “I was counting the attempts in my head, I thought that if Yoshi had flashed then he would have won, then as he had taken a few attempts on the first move, I started to realise that I had won the competition and I was in shock. I still am in shock!” said Duffy on his victory.

“I wouldn’t be here without the rest of the USA team athletes, the support and camaraderie that I share with the team is a key part of these World Cup experiences. I’m glad that they were here to cheer me on and support me to the gold medal,” he added.

Variant 8C by Taylor McNeil

Variant 8C by Taylor McNeil

Taylor McNeill, who previously has done four 8C'd and one 8C+, has done Drew Ruana's Variant (8C) in Mt Evans.

"I did the easier start a few days ago, We can build you v14 (8B+). After I worked the moves for the harder start. Sorted it out fairly quick and got pretty lucky. Hurt my knee last summer on this one, so pretty stoked to come back healthy and finish it up. Two days last summer and two days this year to do WCBY, got lucky and did variant my next sesh. Probably the better line and start. Insomniac (8C+) is the hardest link to be made in the cave, and I’m stoked to put some effort into that next"

What are the differences in difficulties for the three lines?
Wcby starts with a 7A, then the crux sequence which is about 8B, followed by a 7C+ exit. Variant adds a 7C+/8A straight into the 8B crux and finishes the same. Insomniac climbs an 8B into the start jug of Wcby. So it’s 8B to 8B+

Five flashes for Ogata and Ito in Innsbruck

Japan dominated the qualification in the Innsbruck Boulder World Cup. In total, they got four female and six male competitors into the Top-20 semifinals. Yoshiyuki Ogata and Futaba Ito were the only ones able to flash all five problems. Winners of the other groups were Rei Kawamata also from Japan and Stasa Gejo from Serbia. Japan impressively had eight male contestants in the Top-23. Team USA also had five athletes making it to the semis. The most surprising negative sensation was that Oriane Bertone was #33. Complete results

The male semifinal will take place on Thursday at 1 pm followed by the final at 7.45 pm. Then on Friday, the female semifinal will run following the same schedule. Here is how to watch the Innsbruck World Cup.

The Crew 8c+ by Delaney Miller

The Crew 8c+ by Delaney Miller

Delaney Miller reports on Insta that she has done The Crew (8c+) in Rifle (CO). (c) James Lucas

"The route meant a lot to me. I started working on it last year and thought it would go down easily. Then I had a few minor injuries come up that really hindered my progress. I spent the winter recovering and rebuilding, and I'm damn proud of myself for making this breakthrough. A huge thanks to everyone who supported me in the process, and especially to Chris Knuth for having the vision. I've climbed one other route of the grade, Solid Gold in Utah, but this one was on another level."

The 27-year-old has been an active competition climber for ten years until 2018. In 2015, she had her best year being Top-13 four times in the World Cup. Three months ago, she published an article in Climbing focusing on the competition career. "It's an honest reflection of when you chase a dream and don't quite succeed, but ultimately walk away with a trove of memories". In November 2020, she did her first 8c+, Solid Gold but no media has reported it although she is the Digital Editor of Climbing Magazine.

Why did you think Solid Gold was so much easier?
It was more my style, with more sustained climbing and worse rests. I did that in November 2020. The Crew has a series of hard boulder problems separated by kneebar rests, and I'm really bad at kneebars. I'd also venture to say that The Crew is just harder for the grade, although I don't actually have the experience climbing 14c's (8c+) to say that with any kind of authority.