The North Face have asked us to make a scorecard competition where you can win two airplane tickets and free accommodation to their Festival at Kalymnos 27-30 September. Based on discussions in the forum we will also make it like a lottery where you during July will get one ticket for equalling any personal best you make onsighting, flashing or redpointing a route. The winner will be drawn in the first week of August and we will simply draw a scorecard and if there is a personal best, this person will win. In order to win you also have to have at least 50 ascents recorded and out of which at least 10 during July.
TOP IMAGES OF THE WEEK
Planetmountain reports the 2012 nominations for the Arco Rock legends. 8a has been invited along with 20 magazines from 14 countries to vote for the Awards. Who do you think 8a should vote for? La Sportiva Competition Award: Kilian Fischhuber, Anna Stöhr and Jakob Schubert (c) Giulio Malfer The Salewa Rock Award: Sasha DiGiulian, Dave Graham, Adam Ondra, Iker Pou and Daniel Woods
Dimitry Sharafutdinov, boulder world champion in 2007 and 20011 has put on his harness and done Ali-Hulk, 9a and some tries and days later he added the extension making it a 9a+. Baurock reports including picture and this quote from Dima, "Not really suitable route for bouldering climbers. As I tried to rest and recover I can't. But 7 days of working out paid back. I am glad that I gained good endurance but maximal power unfortunately will go down. Who knows those understand...". More info to come!
The base for how we choose which ascents to report is of course based on grades in comparison to age and gender. Today, we normally report 9a's and 8B+ for guys and 8b+ and 8A for female. We also give a higher priority to FA and high quality rated climbs. Lower priority are given to chipped climbs, eliminates, sit starts to routes, boulder traverses especially go and return,
In the begining of the sport climbing era, when the first bolts were placed, we also saw many mixed routes, or climbs protected with both bolts and trad gear. Today, the only mixed routes that are put up are routes with both a splitter crack and also rock where you can not place trad gear.
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
In bouldering, you do not get any credit for being close to Top out, i.e. match the Top in control. This can create situations that many do not find fair. A climber barely getting the zone once, could score better than another one that several times climb higher and but falls every time trying to ma…
Your premium source when it comes to route setting, gym management and the world of indoor climbing. Researched by experts, written for enthusiasts. Inside thi…
Outdoor climbers appreciate nature. Access and environmental issues have possibly made many of us act differently both at the local climbing scene and in the bi…
Here is a quick comparison of the current Bouldering scoring with Tops/Zones, the newly suggested IFSC 100 point system and the 11 point system I presented to a…
Jorg Verhoeven, active competition climber since 1999 and overall World Cup winner in 2006, has sent us some comments in regards Marco Scolaris recently published thoughts on BMI and eating disorders. "Scolaris' statement is very 'politically correct', unfortunately, this won't bring us much furt…