Stefano Ghisolfi does Brunhilde low start (9a)

Stefano Ghisolfi has done his third 9a in two weeks, Brunhilde low start (9a) in Flatanger. It starts with the hardest part of Thor's hammer to avoid the jumar start of Brunhilde L2 (8c). ”I did it in a few days, first, just the 8c section on my second go, and then I started working a bit on the first part. It is a long route with few cruxes, a good training.”

What is your project status of Silence? Have you done all the sequences?
Yes, but just separately. No great progress so far, still haven't tried it from the ground. The hardest part is starting a bit before then the first crack crux and climb it. I go with the right foot in the crack instead of left, and use some crimps to turn again up, but the rest is very similar!

Andy Gullsten does Thor's Hammer 9a (+)

Andy Gullsten, with some ten 9a's under his belt, reports on Instagram that he has completed Thor's Hammer 9a (+) in Flatanger after a fight lasting nearly an hour. "So happy I climbed this route! It’s a king line in the cave and for sure my hardest send to date!" (c) Tor Johnson

Can you tell us more about the ascent and what goes through your mind being in upside land for an hour?
I’ve done some of the other long routes in the cave like Sledgehammer (8c+) and Sledgehammer (8c+) that also take quite a lot of time to climb 😁 but for Thor’s was quite different because the first part tires you out so much that the second part of the route feels sooo much harder. I was working on it for around 2 weeks in June and then had to come back in August to finish it.

I mean there’s not much going through my mind other than, don’t mess it up because the hard part is already done 😅 I fell twice at the end of Thor’s, once on the last rail and once on the jugs 1m from the anchor.. 🙈

What is coming up next?
🤷🏻‍♂️ need to plan some trips in the winter! Any suggestions?

What about Yosemite?
Not yet 😄... but psyched to follow the trip of Hannes [Puman] and Matilda [Söderlund]! Keen for more hard sport climbs and maybe some short bouldering trips.

MP marathon in Verdon by Berthe and Parmentier

Seb Berthe and Hugo Parmentier report from a crazy multi-pitch link-up in Verdon. Last year they did their "Bleau Dans La Peau", 100 x 7A in Font for one day. …

Giulia Sara (14) and Giosuè (10) Altarini send two 8A's

Giosuè Altarini and Giulia Sara Altarini have done Scary Christmas (8A) and the direct variation Steini Christmas (8A) in Gotthardpass. Their father Stefano sh…