EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Uznik wins over Avezou with 0.1 points

Uznik wins over Avezou with 0.1 points

Nicolai Uznik won by doing two boulders in six attempts out of which one flash. This was just one attempt less than Sam Avezou. In the live streaming they give …

Janja superior once again

Janja superior once again

Janja Garnbret climbed with ease passing Jessica Pilz high point. The biggest drama was actually Janja’s big whipper partly upside down, having done a big diago…

Ondra won semi, the only one with 2 tops

Ondra won semi, the only one with 2 tops

Adam Ondra won a very hard semi final topping two just two boulders. On the last two problems he did not reach the zone. Only 8 out of the 20 participants toppe…

Janja in another league in the Lead semi

Janja Garnbret easily passed Manon Hily's high point and then fought hard making ten more moves falling two moves from the top. Third was Mia Krampl falling one move below Manon but seven moves ahead of Jessica Pilz #4. Complete results Jenya Kazbekova was #7 which is sensational as she got food p…

Megos/Ondra (Lead) and Garnbret/Caulier (B) win qually in Munich

Alex Megos and Adam Ondra got highest on the first route and were also among the six guys topping the second qualification route. France, Great Britain, Belgium, and Italy got three through to the semifinal. Complete male Lead result. In the Boulder female qualification, Janja Garnbret and Cloe Cau…

MORE NEWS

7C+ OS and much more by Mirko Caballero (11)

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7C+ OS and much more by Mirko Caballero (11)

Mirko Caballero had a truly amazing winter day in Bishop yesterday where he did five 7C and harder including an onsight of Action Jackson, 7C+. Today he did Swordfish Trombone, 8A see picture. In the junior combined ranking game the eleven year old is #5. It has been haqrd winter conditions since they areived on Saturday, "Bishop 2am. Tent is up. Long snowy drive. 3 miles before Bishop we hit a low of 9 F (13-). Pretty relieved when we got a "balmy" 14 F (10-) at camp...

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8A by Megan Mascarenas (15)

Megan Mascarenas who flashed an 7C+ (8A) being 14 has done The Gusher, 8A in Ute Pass.

8C by Toru Nakajima (19)

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8C by Toru Nakajima (19)

Toru Nakajima has done the first repeat of Dai Koyamada's Tokoyo, 8C at Kasagi. Already four years ago, being 15 years old he did his first 8B+ and he has also already performed world class at the gritstone trad as well as 9a sport. Here is a 15 min video from bouldering around Colorado earlier this year.

Ciudad de Dios (9a) by Jakob Schubert

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Ciudad de Dios (9a) by Jakob Schubert

Jakob Shubert, who is listed as #2 on the preliminary "8a Climber of the year" list, has done Edu Marin's Ciudad de Dios, 9a, in Santa Linya. The Austrian has had yet another successful year in the competition scene being overall #3 in both the Lead and Boulder World Cups. He also won the Lead World Championships and his now spending time on the rocks. (c) ©Elias Holzknecht

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The complete grade evolution

Planetmountain presents through Claude Remy, the most detailed Tick List on the grade progress during the last 100 years in several categories of bouldering and route climbing. It should be noted that the boulder grades presented for some reason have not taken into account that most are today considered down graded. As an example, credits are given for several 8C+', without mentioning Adam Ondra, at the same time as the community struggles to understand if the first 8C+ have been done. "Climbing grades are not an exact science; in addition some achievements haven't yet been confirmed and the difficulty of more than one of these routes has changed over the years due to broken (or modified) holds. This list, which adheres to the French grading scale, is therefore an initial proposal which needs integrating with bouldering traverses trad routes, and hybrid climbs (which begin with a boulder and continue with a rope)."

Hardware carabiners are dangerous

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Hardware carabiners are dangerous

Emanuele Pellizzari has collected old quick draws and hardware carabiners used mainly at the belay station. The conclusion is that even worn out CEmarked climbing carabiners are safer than the hardware gear you see in the picture. Sometimes the dangerous hardware gear are also marked CE which in this case stands for China Export. More info at planetmountain.