EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Technical and aesthetic evolution: La Sportiva presents Katana Laces

Technical and aesthetic evolution: La Sportiva presents Katana Laces

Advertorial: For the SS2022 collection, La Sportiva releases the new version of the Katana Laces shoe, which enriches the climbing category and is presented as …

Lena Müller "ecopoints" 350 km on a bike to climb two dream cracks

Last year, we made an interview with Lena Müller and the ecological crises. She is currently doing a PhD at the University of Innsbruck about the effects of climate change on mountain ecosystems. In the documentary video she takes her bike 350 km to climb two dream cracks.

Janja trains almost only on a spraywall

"I do 95 % of the training on the wall. I am not doing any finger boarding. I am not doing any fitness. I am training six times a week for four hours on the spray wall and that is it. I kept repeating to myself, "if I am not having fun, then I will not win". It is as simple as that." Janja also thin…

Another Play in Paradise (7c, Lienz Dolomites)

Another Play in Paradise (7c, Lienz Dolomites)

Advertorial: Another Play in Paradise is a spicy route, one of 129 that traverse the south-facing slopes of the Lienz Dolomites in 5 sectors ranging in difficul…

MORE NEWS

DNA 9c FA by Seb Bouin

DNA 9c FA by Seb Bouin

Sebastien BOUIN, who previously has done three 9b/+, reports on Insta that he has done the FA of DNA 9c in Verdon. "I'm happy to have completed this project. After having equipped and discovered it in 2019, tried it for 6 months in 2020, and for 6 months in 2021, I finally managed to clip the belay this spring during my second trip. I've spent over 150 days in it (close to 200 I think), and tried the route over 250 times. It's the most challenging project I've ever done. It's the hardest route I've ever tried and climbed in my climbing career. This route marks a milestone in my climbing life." (c) Lena Drapella/Black Diamond

"It is clear that it is a risk to say 9c. There is always the risk that someone will downgrade the route later. Especially with the idea that there is only one more roiute in the world with the same degree. It is difficult to be categorical then. I have never climbed a route that is as difficult as DNA and therefore my degree proposal is 9c, but other climbers must give consensus. That is exactly what makes our sport so wonderful, we do not need judges, we are judges ourselves. It is wonderful but also sensitive in situations like this, at the absolute highest level. That is why I would like other top climbers to come here and test DNA", says Seb.

Three 9a+ lines by Alex Megos

Three 9a+ lines by Alex Megos

Alex Megos reports on Insta that he, beside doing his "nemesis" 9a, Victimas Perez, also has done three 9a+ routes. "One of the 9a+'s was the FA of "Carlota's Journey". It's a combination of Carlota (8c) into the top of a new line bolted by @tom_bolger. Crux is a deadpoint into a mono. Margalef at its finest👌🏼." In total, the German has now done some 100 routes 9a and harder which is second most in the world after Adam Ondra. (c) Esteban Lahoz

What were the other two 9a+ routes you did?
The first one was Samfaina and the third one was another combination. It's called Carlota la Colombiana.

Did you try any other harder lines that you plan to return for?
Always. 😂 But I didn't try anything harder very much. I focused on a few 9a and 9a+ (routes).

What is the next comp you plan to do?
The next comp is not decided yet. Innsbruck I'll do for sure though. Bouldering and Lead.

Super Finale 9a by Dylan Chuat

Super Finale 9a by Dylan Chuat

Dylan Chuat, who was #11 in the Euro Championship in 2020, has repeated Adam Ondra's Super Finale (9a) in Rawyl and it took him just three sessions. "Just amazing as a route! Small crux at the bottom with a small arch then big movement not hard with only pleasure until a second major physical crux on a flat grip and then two jumps after some ruler to tighten at 35-40m from the ground it's just ouffff." (c) Rémi Degenne

No Kpote Only 8C (+) by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who previously has done four 9a's but just one 8B+ before arriving to Fontainebleau, has done No Kpote Only 8C (+). It was put up by Charles Albert, barefoot, as a 9A. Later it has been repeated twice and 8C+/9A as well as 8C/+ have been suggested.

"A great climb and a super productive day! Can't say anything about the grade cause never tried a proper 8C before, so I'll just wait till the grade settles))) I also had my own beta cause couldn't reach the gaston from the heel, so I went down to it with my hands and stood up from the undercling crimp next to it. Would be sick if someone strong could check it out and give it a grade) video coming soon!"

Scoglio di Capri 8c by Jana Messner

Scoglio di Capri 8c by Jana Messner

Jana Messner has done her third 8c, Scoglio di Capri in Bus di vela. "I tried it one year ago once (it was the first 8c I have tried), but it felt like a lot of work and at that moment I wasn't really motivated for a bigger project. This year I returned to the crag and it went surprisingly good the first time. On the first day of trying, I fell at the crux at the beginning but climbed from that point to the top. I returned two days later and sent the whole route🙌 ."

What is your climbing background?
I grew up in Villnöss, South Tyrol and joined the competition team in Brixen, when I was six, and the South Tyrolean team a few years later. I was part of the National youth team of Italy during my youth categories and took part in World Youth Championships, European Championships and Italian Championships. I was able to win the youth Italian Championship in Lead in 2019 and make some semifinals at World and European Youth Championships in Lead. During my competition years, I realised that climbing outdoors fulfils me with way more joy than competitions could do and I started climbing outdoors at the age of 14.

Are you related to the legend Reinhold Messner?
He actually grew up in the same village as I did and my Grandma, was somehow related to his mother. But basically, every second person in Villnöß is called Messner😂.

What are your summer plans?
It will be the first summer in a while where I will be at home quite a lot...I'm going to work at the climbing gym and make the climbing camps for the kids...in July I will go to south France (probably Ceuse), after that 2 weeks in Switzerland working on a mountain hut, then finishing the instructor for sport climbing...and the rest climbing I guess...really looking forward to climb a lot in Landro, South Tyrol this summer😁