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Defined starts for the worlds first 8B and 8B+

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Defined starts for the worlds first 8B and 8B+

Click on the picture to see the defined starts of the world's first 8B and 8B+. After one move they share the same holds and sequence before they split. In between the two defined starting positions, a new direct start from an undercling has been found skipping one move. Original picture by Carsten Wittenberg from Boulderproject The new starting move, in the middle, some 10 cm respectively 30 cm in between the left and right starts, was initially said to lower the difficulty with one grade. Later also the original two starts have been subject of being down graded. La danse del balrogs was put up in 1992 and Radja, including a the more challenging start, in 1996 by Fred Nicole who is the most important boulder pioneer in the world. Fred was one of the first establishing hard core boulders in Rocklands, Hueco Tanks, Grampians and Switzerland. Do you have to use the same starting holds that the FA used in order to repeat boulders? Or should you give the boulder a new name if you did find an easier starting sequence?

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Rudi Moroder hits Rocklands hard

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Rudi Moroder hits Rocklands hard

Rudi Moroder has had an amazing five weeks in Rocklands, sending 36 boulders 8A and harder. Included in this impressive tick list were four flashes and a one hour ascent of The Arch, 8B. In some five cases, he has given personal grades. It should be noted that before his trip to Rocklands, Moroder had done 20 8A's and harder, meaning he more than doubled his hard boulder resume. "Rocklands is without doubt one of the best bouldering places on the planet.The rock is fantastic, there are incredibly lots of boulders and the area still has a lot of potential. This summer a lot of strong climbers were there and the atmosphere was amazing." More info and pics in his blog

Sharafutdinov and Puccio Win Boulder in Arco

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Sharafutdinov and Puccio Win Boulder in Arco

Alex Puccio and Dimitry Sharafutdinov claimed 3,500 Euro winnings in the Boulder event at Arco Rock Master. The event utilized a different format where the climbers with the poorest result are eliminated after each boulder. Complete results Alex was eliminated after the second boulder, but was reinstated after a protest and didn't look back, flashing the final two problems for a great win. "I wouldn´t say anything negative about the competition, but there is also room for improvements in everything. I think the Arco Rockmaster format is a good once or twice a year competition." Pic of Alex during the morning working session by Ignacio Sandoval Burón.

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8b+again by Tito Traversa (11)

Tito Claudio Traversa has done his second 8b+, Sogno di Kriptonite in Tetto di Sarre. His first 8b+, he did when he was 10 years old. Tito has also onsighted 8a and normally he climbs around 10 days per month.

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Charlotte Durif amazing summer tick list

Charlotte Durif reports that during July and August she has done 16 routes 8b and harder. Among the 16 was Patience dans l'azur in Atac onsight where she also did the extension, 8c. She has also onsighted another ten routes 8a and harder. The reason why her amazing tick list for the summer has not been reported in the french news is that their biggest climbing website has previously accused Durif of lying, and consequently stopped reporting her ascents. It should be noted that their decision not to report Durif's sends is based solely on rumours and speculations. She has done one 9a and her impressive onsight tick list make her a contender for being the best OS climber in the world. In the Lead WC in 2012, Durif is #6 after having been #3 in Briancon. In 2006, Charlotte won the European Championship at 16 years old, and in 2010 she won the World Cup in Chamonix. In 2008 she did her only Boulder World Cup where she was #2.