EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Euro Youth Cup Dornbirn

Austria dominated the European Lead Cup at home-turf in Dornbirn getting four golds. In the female Youth A they had four girls in the Top-5 ranking. It should be mentioned that France and Switzerland did not participate, probably as they wanted to prepare for the European Championship the next week.…

Male Lead dominated by USA and Japan

Male Lead dominated by USA and Japan

In the male Lead ranking of 2018, Sean Bailey was #18 and the highest ranked from the USA. The second highest was #43. In 2019, Sean had advanced to #9 and Jess…

Garnbret and Grupper win the semi in Villars

Janja Garnbret was the only athlete to top the semifinal route in Villars. Runner-up was Chaehyun Seo and the third was Brooke Raboutou, which also was the final ranking in Innsbruck last weekend. Among the male, Jesse Grupper got the highest ahead of Colin Duffy. Interestingly, Team Japan got four …

Knowing when to use softer shoes and stiffer shoes (especially if you're shorter in stature)

Knowing when to use stiff shoes and when to use soft shoes, as well as how to size them, can sometimes feel like quite the dilemma. As climbing shoe technology and our understanding of performance evolve, the growing trend has been to no longer downsize your climbing shoes to the smallest possible s…

5.09 and 5.04 by Kiromal Katibin

In the Villar Speed qualification, Kiromal Katibin from Indonesia set two World Records. In his first run, he did 5.09 and then 5.04 in his second race, video. Runner-up was Long Cao from China with 5.22. Besides the several World Records in 2022, the level has been pushed significantly and 5.58 was…

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shoes

http://www.lasportiva.com/news_approfondimento.html?&L=1&tx_ttnews[tt_news]=1675&cHash=814a40ee55d027039c21c737bf2721e2

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Adam Ondra's RRG write up

La Sportiva presents Adam Ondra's own words from his amazing trip to Red River Gorge where he, based on his personal down gradings, flashed a 9a and onsighted two 8c+ etc.

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8A+ by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has had some great few days in Joe's Valley, having done three 8A's and yesterday she did Dark Matters, 8A+ in Huntington Canyon. "Beautiful beautiful sandstone wall. Really nice moves too.

8c by Ruben Firnenburg (15)

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8c by Ruben Firnenburg (15)

Ruben Firnenburg who won the Euro Youth Cup in Slovenia the last weekend, as well as overall, has spent the last week in Misja Pec where he did Strelovod, 8c. Also Jakob Heber Norum (16) has done the 8c. Ruben: "The Conditions were pretty bad and it was rainy and about 5 °C . It became a little fight so we were really glad sending the nice line after that week and it was good fun! Especially for Jakob the Route was a new success as his first 8c!" (c) Martin Pötter