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Another 9a (+) FA by Klem Loskot (38)

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Another 9a (+) FA by Klem Loskot (38)

Klem Loskot has done the FA of Rehabilitation, 9a (+) at Balcony in Plombergstein where he just some three weeks ago did the FA of The Balcony project, 9a (+). The name Rehabilitation comes from that the original 8c line from 1991 was partly made up by artificial holds that have been taken down. "In 1991 it was different with artificial holds. In south of Europe it was just normal, even on top routes. There are so many artificial holds on the hardest routes from the 90'ies, even Action Directe, Hubble and La rose etc. I feel very bad for that period and it's a shame and especially for the balcony which is soo unique. I could at least for my self "repair" and rehabilitate my self. I have to get the holds out of one more artificial line and make the rock look as "beauty" as possible. This one will not go free natural.

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by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Euro Youth Cup Dornbirn

Austria dominated the European Lead Cup at home-turf in Dornbirn getting four golds. In the female Youth A they had four girls in the Top-5 ranking. It should be mentioned that France and Switzerland did not participate, probably as they wanted to prepare for the European Championship the next week.…

Male Lead dominated by USA and Japan

Male Lead dominated by USA and Japan

In the male Lead ranking of 2018, Sean Bailey was #18 and the highest ranked from the USA. The second highest was #43. In 2019, Sean had advanced to #9 and Jess…

Garnbret and Grupper win the semi in Villars

Janja Garnbret was the only athlete to top the semifinal route in Villars. Runner-up was Chaehyun Seo and the third was Brooke Raboutou, which also was the final ranking in Innsbruck last weekend. Among the male, Jesse Grupper got the highest ahead of Colin Duffy. Interestingly, Team Japan got four …

Knowing when to use softer shoes and stiffer shoes (especially if you're shorter in stature)

Knowing when to use stiff shoes and when to use soft shoes, as well as how to size them, can sometimes feel like quite the dilemma. As climbing shoe technology and our understanding of performance evolve, the growing trend has been to no longer downsize your climbing shoes to the smallest possible s…

5.09 and 5.04 by Kiromal Katibin

In the Villar Speed qualification, Kiromal Katibin from Indonesia set two World Records. In his first run, he did 5.09 and then 5.04 in his second race, video. Runner-up was Long Cao from China with 5.22. Besides the several World Records in 2022, the level has been pushed significantly and 5.58 was…

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56 pages Digital Mag free by DPM

Dead Point Magazine presents their latest issue free online including very nice interviews with Adam Ondra and Ashima Shiraishi etc.

Kalymnos bolting event in 2013

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Kalymnos bolting event in 2013

Part of the rapid success for Kalymnos was that the equippers did get free bolts during the first years. There are currently some 2 500 routes on the island and during the last years more than 200 new routes have been added yearly but they have been paid by the bolters themselves. Climbkalymnos reports that Sachsenheim will organize a bolt event between October 26th to November 9th were they will give out free bolts and arrange for discounted accommodation, food and scooters. (c) Nikolaos Smalios Climb Kalymnos, the topo producer, will during the same event provide new bolts for the ones that need to be rebolted.

30 unpublished 8B and harder by Klem Loskot

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30 unpublished 8B and harder by Klem Loskot

Klem Loskot (38) is a pioneer who has established famous FA's around the world since the mid 90-ies. The last three years he has been working under cover putting up 30 boulders 8B - 8C. "All the new stuff is south of Salzburg, in the northern Alpine foothills, very close to my home, spread out on several small cliffs, boulders and caves, sometimes just with 2-3 problem each place. It's all Limestone, as the norther Prealps in this region are Limestone. Most is not what i always expected, crimpy and sharp, but solide, nice to climb on full body style. Dessertfox (8C see picture) is on a wave like shaped, almost 45° overhanging 5 meter wall. Easy first sit start move on good holds and then flows into the hardest move, the shoulder-breaker." The full list is presented as a comment.

8A+ and many 8A for Team ABC in Hueco!

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8A+ and many 8A for Team ABC in Hueco!

According to the Team ABC Boulder Blog, the kids of Elite Team ABC had a fantastic trip that included 7C+ and 8A sends for many members of this team, all of whom are in their teens. Highlights included Barefoot on Sacred Ground 8A+ for Shawn Raboutou (14), Crimping Christ on the Cross 7C+ and Sunshine 8A on the same day for Brooke Raboutou (11), Sunshine 8A for Margo Hayes (14), three 8As for Michael O'Rourke (18) and stefan lavender (16) and Eckstein 7C+ for their coach, Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou (49). To see the full list of sends from the team and photos of each athlete, check out this post on the blog. Photo (c) Team ABC Boulder