LATEST NEWS

NUMBERS

Free streaming of UK trad film

Odyssey’ is a road movie that celebrates the best of British trad climbing with James Pearson, Hazel Findlay, Hansjorg Auer and Caroline Ciavaldini. Free streaming on Hot Aches until Nov 20th

9a by Larcher and 8c (+) by Le Nevé

NUMBERS

9a by Larcher and 8c (+) by Le Nevé

Jacopo Larcher wrote in his blog that after a rest day he was confident that Melissa Le Nevé would do Southern Smoke, 8c (+) and that he would do it with the Direct start, 9a... and so they did. Jacopo came to Red River Gorge with a personal best of 8c redpoint and 8a+ onsight. During the last ten days he has done six personal bests. Melissa came to RRG with 8b+ as a personal best and now she has done two 8c (+). Pic: Ignacio Sandoval Burón.

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Technical and aesthetic evolution: La Sportiva presents Katana Laces

Technical and aesthetic evolution: La Sportiva presents Katana Laces

Advertorial: For the SS2022 collection, La Sportiva releases the new version of the Katana Laces shoe, which enriches the climbing category and is presented as …

Lena Müller "ecopoints" 350 km on a bike to climb two dream cracks

Last year, we made an interview with Lena Müller and the ecological crises. She is currently doing a PhD at the University of Innsbruck about the effects of climate change on mountain ecosystems. In the documentary video she takes her bike 350 km to climb two dream cracks.

Janja trains almost only on a spraywall

"I do 95 % of the training on the wall. I am not doing any finger boarding. I am not doing any fitness. I am training six times a week for four hours on the spray wall and that is it. I kept repeating to myself, "if I am not having fun, then I will not win". It is as simple as that." Janja also thin…

Another Play in Paradise (7c, Lienz Dolomites)

Another Play in Paradise (7c, Lienz Dolomites)

Advertorial: Another Play in Paradise is a spicy route, one of 129 that traverse the south-facing slopes of the Lienz Dolomites in 5 sectors ranging in difficul…

MORE NEWS

James Kassay climbs Wheel of Life Direct

NUMBERS

James Kassay climbs Wheel of Life Direct

About a year ago James Kassay climbed The Wheel Of Life in Hollow Mountain Cave, but even at the time he made it clear he was not content. "I have, for as long as I can remember, had a personal goal with my climbing... To start at the lowest point of Hollow Mountain Cave; climb Extreme Cool, Sleepy Hollow, Cave Man and then to finish up left on Dead Can't Dance which is the highest point of the cave. Today it has become a reality! I just did the first ascent of The Wheel of Life DIRECT!!! Personally it is one of the most amazing achievements of my climbing career! (Footage to come!)" --LC

8C FA by Dai Koyamada again

NUMBERS

8C FA by Dai Koyamada again

Dai Koyamada reports that he has done the FA of Insanity of Grandeur, 8C in Chironico which adds an 8B sit start to Delusion of Gradeur, 8A+ (B). A month ago, Dai did the same sit start but went right making the first repeat of Martin Keller's Der mit dem Fels tanzt, 8C. (c) Ikuko Serata

8c+ (9a) and more by Jacopo Larcher

NUMBERS

8c+ (9a) and more by Jacopo Larcher

Jacopo Larcher has had two amazing weeks in Red River Gorge where he has achieved several personal bests. Yesterday he did Pure Imagination confirming the 8c+ grade by Adam Ondra. "After a quick warm-up, I finally understood the weird move on the lower part, where I fell on all my earlier attempts, and I easily climbed my way up to the chain. Another “5 star” line here in the Red is done. More info at his blog which ends by saying that he is confident about doing Southern Smoke direct, 9a after a rest day and that Melissa is close to sending the original Southern Smoke line, 8c (+).

James Kassay does The Wheel of Life Direct

NUMBERS

James Kassay does The Wheel of Life Direct

James Kassay has written on FB that he has done The Wheel of Life DIRECT which links four boulders in the Hollow Mountain Cave in Grampians. Dai Koyamada opened the original 65 mover as an 8C+ in 2004 which James did one year ago commenting, "Now for the direct!" James has worked the roof for more than 10 years.

NUMBERS

Two 8a OS by Jenya Kazbekova (16)

Jenya Kazbekova has onsighted two 8a in Terradetts, Bon Viatge and Latido del miedo and she goes to #3 in the Junior ranking game. Her father Serik has won World Cups both in Lead and Bouldering and her mother Nataliya Perlova, has a silver and a bronze in Bouldering World Championships. Jenya did her first 8b+ when she was 13 years old so all together the Ukraine family is among the most successful climbing families in the world.