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Boulder Start World Standard Ethics

The problem occurs when you have to give instructions, and how it should be done, on how to start a problem. Here are the most common way to do it and we are always talking about adding to the name. Sit Start (SS): Your ass leaves the pad last and statically Defined start (DS): Exact position for hands (feet) - USA style

Belay technique and soft falls

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Belay technique and soft falls

Quite often you hear about a small girl taking a very hard fall, injuring herself, due to her much heavier boyfriend or father have created a very hard fall. Here are some practical tips on how you can give soft falls also for the small climbers making them less afraid and possibly climb harder in the future. The picture tries to show that bending knees makes it impossible to sit down and helps the heavier belayer to jump upwards.

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Garnbret and Grupper win the semi in Villars

Janja Garnbret was the only athlete to top the semifinal route in Villars. Runner-up was Chaehyun Seo and the third was Brooke Raboutou, which also was the final ranking in Innsbruck last weekend. Among the male, Jesse Grupper got the highest ahead of Colin Duffy. Interestingly, Team Japan got four …

5.09 and 5.04 by Kiromal Katibin

In the Villar Speed qualification, Kiromal Katibin from Indonesia set two World Records. In his first run, he did 5.09 and then 5.04 in his second race, video. Runner-up was Long Cao from China with 5.22. Besides the several World Records in 2022, the level has been pushed significantly and 5.58 was…

Michaela Kiersch leads the current 12-month female combined ranking

Michaela Kiersch leads the current 12-month female combined ranking

Over the last 12 months, Michaela Kiersch has sent two 8B+ boulders and one 9a route. There might be some unreported ascents out there from other female climber…

We are looking for a Senior UX/UI Designer (full-time, m/f/d)

We are looking for a Senior UX/UI Designer (full-time, m/f/d)

This is an opportunity to combine your passion for climbing with your professional expertise. You’ll get to design interfaces that tens of thousands of people r…

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Jacopo Larcher gets Jungle Speed (9a)

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Jacopo Larcher gets Jungle Speed (9a)

Jacopo Larcher who some weeks ago made headlines from Red River Gorge managed to do the 4rth (?) ascent of Daniel Jung's Jungle speed. From Jacopo's words, the short route breaks into a 3 bolts boulder problem followed by a 7c+ish overhanging slab. The crux revolves around a very hard shoulder move, followed by a big reach to a good two finger pocket. The 23 years old Italian climber has more of a "mountain" background, but recently took more time for sport climbing, with pretty good results. Although telling us that he's having great fun on route climbing, his focus is not on long-term projects (both of his recent 9a's were climbed in a few tries). And as he would definitely like to transpose his skill into mountain sized projects at some point, no doubts we'll hear a lot more coming from the guy in the future. Picture : Jacopo in Jungle Speed, credit : Mélissa le Névé

Bock the king of Frankenjura

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Bock the king of Frankenjura

Frankenjura is with some 10 000 routes spread out over almost 1 000 sectors one of the largest climbing areas in the world. There are 14 routes graded 9a and harder and Markus Bock has put up all but Action Directe (which is ranked as the hardest 9a). Out of the official Top-50 hardest routes in Frankenjura, Markus Bock has put up 47! Interview is coming up including also the use of glue and the liberal down climbing ethics in Frankenjura. Markus is known for his hard gradings and only some 10 % of his hardest routes have been down graded. The 33 year old was also one of the first who officially started to give personal grades for most of his boulder repeats in Switzerland some ten years ago.

8B flash by Jimmy Webb

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8B flash by Jimmy Webb

James Webb has made a very impressive flash of the well confirmed 8B, Roses and blue jays in Great Barrington. "The most spectacular boulder. Freak good conditions today and I was able to climb the boulder perfectly making not a single mistake. A dream come true." Jimmy is #4 in the ranking game but based on his continous progress during the last six years, he is a contendor for stepping up as a contendor of the best boulderer in the world 2013. The picture is from an 8a interview in 2010.

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Increased price differentiation

It has never been cheaper to buy climbing equipment. During the last years we have seen price decreases for Ropes, Harnesses, Quick draws and Shoes. Here are some examples of the lowest and highest price on the global market. In general, the lowest prices are found in Spain meanwhile the highest prices are found in Norway and Brazil. Rope70: Euro 100 - Euro 350 Harness: Euro 35 - Euro 200 QD's: Euro 8 - Euro 70 Shoes: Euro 45 - Euro 230 It should be mentioned that in some chains in Spain and France, they have even lower prices for some of their own branding. If you have more precise figures, please share them.

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Ashima's (11) 8c+ video for free at DPM

DPM releases their video library for free including eleven year old Ashima Shiraishi's famous ascent of Lucifer, 8c+ in Red River Gorge. First year charged USD 12 for their videos and later USD 6. Now it is for free but you have to create an account and log in in order to see the videos. It should be noted that Ashima did Lucifer on her seventh day on and that this was just her second trip climbing on rock using a rope! Further more, Lucifer is a very well confirmed 8c+ without anyone saying it is 8c.