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Jon Cardwell Interview

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Jon Cardwell Interview

Jon Cardwell has been a world class climber since 2006 when he was 17 years old and he is peaking. During the last few months he has done both a 9a, Southern Smoke Direct and a 8C, The Game (see picture). One reason for this is that he now has a permanent adress in Boulder where he works as a route setter. In the interview he shares his thoughts on long time progressing and training as well as how he works his projects etc. Blog today for The Game.

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


New Combined format to be tested in ECH Munich

The European Championships, in Munich, starts on 11/8 and finishes on 17-18/8 with the Combined final events. The Combined qualification rankings are based on (World Cup) points gained in the Lead and Boulder events at the beginning of the Championships. In other words, 850 points might be needed to…

Outsiders in Euro Champ in Munich

The European Championship in Munich starts 11/8 and some will compete for four days straight doing three rounds in Boulder and Lead respectively. This means that the athletes only doing one discipline have an advantage and that goes especially for the male athletes only doing Lead and the female ath…

10 nations share the 18 medals in Graz

The third and final day of the Euro Youth Championship in Graz started with the semifinal for the oldest juniors. Surprisingly, both the boys and the girls competed on almost identical boulders as the final Youth A boulders from yesterday. Several coaches were upset as this is against the onsight fo…

Korosec and Mabboni Youth A winners in Graz

On the second day of the European Youth Championship in Graz, Allesia Mabboni from Italy won Youth A making two tops and four zones (24). Runner-up was Iziar Martinez from Spain who flashed the two boulders which Allesia could not do but she could only make three zones. The Spaniard was #15 in the …

Very hard boulders in ECH - Graz

The European Youth Championship in Bouldering started today in Graz. Unfortunately, the boulders were very hard and both climbers and coaches were upset. The Norweigian Head Coach, Reino "Nicki" Horak said that for the girls, it was the worst and hardest setting he has ever seen. "It was much worse …

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Fire destroys Laos best climbing site

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Fire destroys Laos best climbing site

WorkliveLaos reports that GreenClimbersHome, have been destroyed by a fire. It was built, next to the best climbing crag in Laos, called Thakhek, by Tanja and Uli Weidner in 2010. Now they are re-building it. In total there are 130 routes between 4a to 9a which has not been affected by the fire.

Chaxi, 9a+ by Cédric Lachat

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Chaxi, 9a+ by Cédric Lachat

Nina Caprez through facebook that Cédric Lachat has done the third ascent of Adam Ondra's 45 m long Chaxi, 9a+ in Oliana. It was bolted by Chris Sharma who did the second ascent and the name comes from his dog. There is also an 8B+ direct start making it Chaxi Raxi, 9b. Cedric is one of the best overall performing world class in all disciplines including multi-pitches. In the last Lead World Cup he was #2 and in his last Boulder WC in 2011, he was also #2.

8C by Guillaume Glairon-Mondet

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8C by Guillaume Glairon-Mondet

Guillaume Glairon-Mondet has done his first 8C, The Big Island in Fontainebleau after some 12 sessions during three years. "Many thanks to Dave Graham and Vincent Pochon to put up the perfect line, which is (for me) the perfect problem!" More info, pics and video on his blog. Gui-Gui has had a nice steady progress since 2007 when he did his first 8A+. He has also won two World Cup events. What was the success recipe today? "Hum!! one rest day yesterday, (I am at the end of 3 weeks of hard training for the next comps) and good weather (snow last night, and after drying the holds with a towel, it was a really good friction!!)" Is the sit start the next project? Probably not soon, because I looked at it, and it seems to be and hard 8A/B to join big island (5-8 moves)... so probably 9A, for the futures Adam or something like that!"

Two 8A's and more by Nina Williams

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Two 8A's and more by Nina Williams

Nina Williams has had a nice productive week at Hueco Tanks, having done two 8A's, Chbalanke and Sunshine plus five 7C+'. It should be mentioned that most of the boulders did originally have a higher grade. (c) Elias Robert Hakim from Joe's Valley