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6th 9a by Mateusz Haladaj

Mateusz Haladaj has done his sixth 9a, Fuck the system in Santa Linya and he moves to #7 in the world ranking game. "Very good pitch, power endurance with a tricky traverse and a fantastic dyno on the top. 6th try, feel in shape.

8C FA by Dave Graham again

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8C FA by Dave Graham again

Dave Graham has opend his sixth 8C with his latest addition The Bridge of Ashes in Elkland. Dave is the climber who has added some of the most hard core FA's in the world. More info at Island.io (c) Cameron Maier Dave is tied with Daniel Woods as #1 in the Boulder world ranking game and he has been Top-3 in the Combined for 12 straight years.

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Garnbret wants strict BMI rules in 2023

In a 40 min interview at the IFSC Climbing Summit, Janja Garnbret was very straightforward about BMI testing. She referred to a survey in Innsbruck where it later was stated that: 16 % of female athletes have no menstruation and 22 % reported that they currently struggle with an eating disorder. …

Schubert and Ondra on Project Big

What does Project Big mean to you? I’d say, Flatanger is the Yosemite of sports climbing. It’s the rock quality, the potential, the number of difficult routes, it’s simply extraordinary. It’s a beautiful place looking over the fjords to the sea, the cave is massive, it’s steep, offers so many hard r…

Janja Garnbret interview

“Everybody wants to have a world champion at 16, and a long career. It’s a marathon, not a sprint, but I’m seeing too much pressure put on younger athletes, and an increasing number of injuries because to this.”"Do we want to raise the next generation of skeletons?"

MORE NEWS

8c (+) by Matilda Söderlund

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8c (+) by Matilda Söderlund

Matilda Söderlund reports through her blog that she has done Pati Noso 8c (+) in Siurana which should be the second female ascent after Alizée Dufraisse. " WOHOO today I sent Pati Noso 8c/+! 40 meters of beautiful climbing, definitely one of the coolest routes that I have climbed! VENGA!" (c) Jonas Wiklund

8c+ (9a) by Alex Barrows

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8c+ (9a) by Alex Barrows

Alex Barrows has done the first repeat of Malcolm Smith's 45 move boulder route Pilgrimage in Parisella's cave, from 2004, giving it a personal grade of 8c+. (c) Chris Lockyer Nice full story in the blog where Alex says that kneepads might explain the grade difference.

8b flash Matilda Söderlund

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8b flash Matilda Söderlund

Matilda Söderlund, who last year was the world's best onsight and flash female climber, is back in Spain where she just flased Batuka, 8b and onsighted an 8a in Margalef all this on her first day. The 20 year old was #6 in the Lead World Champion in 2012 and she plans to do all the Lead events and maybe one Boulder WC this year. Matilda is going back to Sweden on the 26th and she hopes to find a redpoint project this year, maybe in Oliana. (c) Jonas Wiklund

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Who is your male climbing hero?

Based on 2 700 unique votes compared with an identical poll in 2010. (Results in brackets.) It is interesting to see that no competition climber did get more than 1 %. 23 % Chris Sharma (30) 14 % Adam Ondra (7), Wolfgang Güllich (17) 10 % Fred Nicole (9) 08 % Dave Graham (8) 05 % Nalle Hukkataival (5) 04 % Alex Honnold (1), Alex Huber (6) 03 % Dani Andrada (5), Daniel Woods (1) 11 % Other (11)