EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Luca Bana and the FA of Extrasistole 9a

Luca Bana did the FA of Extrasistole galoppante (9a) in December 2021. "Outstanding project on the 'heart' sector, bolted in 2010 by Yuri parimbelli and remained unclimbed until now. A mix of big exposure, rock quality and savage moves makes it one of the best hard routes of the area!"

Japan, USA and Slovenia dominated the 2022 WC

Here is the Combined national World Cup ranking in 2022. It was more or less the same ranking in 2021, aside from Japan creating an even bigger gap between themselves and the other countries chasing them. The Czech Republic has dropped in ranking due to the absence of Adam Ondra. Remarkably, Sloveni…

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Era Vella, 9a by Reffo Silvio

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Era Vella, 9a by Reffo Silvio

Silvio Reffo continues to show great form and has done Era Vella, 9a in Margalef. Pictures and more info in Italian. The high quality route was set up by Chris Sharma and it is almost 40 m and most of it overhangs 45 degrees. "I started to try it two weeks ago. It is very beautiful, no hard moves, but a war with the pump. In this season is very difficult as the temperature made my hands like ice!" The plan is to stay one more month and now move to Santa Linya and Oliana. Then he plans to start training for the WC and to do some hard routes in Italy.

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Peñoles video serie : Yellow trailer

In Early january, Nalle Hukkataival followed the mexican darkhorse Diego Lopez Montull in it's garden of Peñoles. Resulted the first ascent of several hard perfect highballs, and the stupefaction to realize this place host dozens of very futuristic projects. The development has barely begun, but the local community has started to make a guidebook of the existing problems (which would be enought for a decent sized area, but nothing for a place this size). Before visiting, of for more information, please visit the locals facebook page: ToroPesado Yellow trailer, by Sandstones Media.

8B+ and more by Alberto Rocasolano

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8B+ and more by Alberto Rocasolano

Alberto Rocasolano has had a productive last months having done three 8B's and Nacho Sanchez' Zarzafar, 8B+ in Zarzalejo. The 21 year old goes to #7 in the ranking game. The last year he has put up 14 boulders 8A and harder. Spanish blogspot. In uniformicide extension, 8A+ on the picture. "During 2013 I hope to climb as much as possible when I am not studying in the University or working as a Baywatch during summer. I hope to do some more 8B's and also an 8c+ or 9a route and also possible an 8C, ha ha