Dylan Chuat has done his fourth 9a, during the last nine months, Coup de Grace in Ticino. On Insta he comments, "It felt incredible 😍!!
I’m excited to find a route really hard which will take me some time to work on and put in a lot of attempts until I make it 😁💪🏼!!" (c) Fedir Samoilov
During the last weeks, the 20-year-old has also done two 8B FAs in Valle Bavona. Last November he was #11 in the Euro Lead Championship in Moscow.
Staša Gejo, who has done five 8A's in 2021, has done her third 8A+ during the last year, Backgammon in Frankenjura and amazingly she took it down on her second session, video.
So how was it possible to take it down in just two sessions?
Well, to be honest, I don't think 8A+ is my realistic upper limit, so I need to try something harder. Additionally, this one really suited me well.
When will you start trying 8B and 8B+?
I tried some, they feel pretty hard, but doable. I need to find something that suits me better 🤷🏻♀️ I have time :)
Giuliano Cameroni has done Jimmy Webb's La Rustica in Valle Bavona. "Could never do the crux move for the past years. A few weeks ago I realized that it was possible so I started investing more time into it. Took me three days to stick the crux move and on that same try, I luckily didn’t let go and made it to the top. It was an epic fight haha.
Concerning the grade, it personally felt like a very hard 8C."
Previously, the 23-year-old Swizz, has done 18 8C's and harder out of which eight FAs. On Insta he comments, "Perfect rock and moves make this one of the coolest lines I’ve ever seen!"
Solveig Korherr has done her ninth 8c the last year, Odd Fellows in Frankenjura. In the 8a ranking game, the 22-year-old is #2.
"Yippie! Two days this trip + a couple of tries from last year in spring. Fingers felt good on these tiny Frankenjura crimps! After getting heartbreakingly close on my second try already, I kept falling lower and lower. I’m glad I managed to keep calm and to clip the anchor today! :) Thanks Jon for belaying and sorry for the wobblers :D.
I will spend the next two weeks in Frankenjura, but without any specific goals. I‘m psyched to climb a lot and check out some new cliffs as there are so many options to choose from.”
Philipp Gaßner has done Action Directe in Frankenjura which was put up by Wolfgang Gullich in 1990 and generally considered to be the first 9a in the world. In total, it has been repeated 27 times and interestingly, during the last 2.5 years, it had only been done twice, including Melissa Le Neve doing the first female ascent last year. (c) Basti Scheibel
"Psyched to have finally climbed that one. I’ve wanted to do it for a long time but somehow I’ve only spent there a couple of days over the past few years. This spring I was super excited to give it a serious go. And on the fourth day of this season, I did it with great support from my friends. There is not much left to say about the route. This thing is just absolutely iconic and it‘s still a difficult test piece. Looking forward to moving on to the next projects!"
What was hardest for you redpointing it?
The hardest was to be that certain mental state to be able to climb the route because I knew I was strong enough to do so. Just focusing on the very next move and not trying to calculate if I can send it or not. And even though there was a little mistake during the send go I did not let go.
The first time Philipp made 8a headlines was in 2014, being 14-years-old doing his first 8c+, Reality Check. In total, the German has now done 15 routes 8c+ and 9a. This year, he has also done his first 8C boulder.
Stefano Carnati, who previously has done four 9a+, has done his 16th 9a by Super circo abusivo 9a in Paline. "It went down after 10 tries over 4 days. It’s a really beautiful 40m line and it took quite some time to figure out all the sequences." The picture is from the FA of Collasso Gravitazionale 9a in Candalino.
Martin Stranik has done the FA of Black Panther 8C in Vesec, video. In total, the Czech has now done twelve 8C boulders out of which five FA's and he is #3 in the 8a ranking game. "Great athletic bouldering on 25 moves. Thought it would be a fast process, but pumpy hands were sending me down six days in total, exhausted body, destroyed fingers. Low 8C." (c) Jakub Fric
Eloi Peretti has done his first 9a, Ça chauffe in Seynes. (c) Aurele Bremond
The route is divided into 3 different parts: A nice 6b with a no hand rest at the anchor followed by 10 meters of technical climbing on very small edges. The last 5 moves of this part are the crux of the route, on very sharp crimps and small footholds. Even if the route is 35m long, it is in fact very bouldery.
Once the crux is passed, there is an incredible overhang on perfect rock with big moves on pretty good holds. It is not so hard, it would be around 8b or 8b+ maybe, but you have to commit in every move if you don't want to fall which makes the ascent so spicy!
I spent around 15 tries in this route and at the end the weather was becoming warmer and warmer and I was worried I would not have the chance to pass the crux before the season is over. But I returned a last time to this crag and finally sticked the last one finger pocket of the crux and made my way to the anchor.”
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
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