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Deutschland Meutschland 8Cc FA by Niki Rusev (15)

Deutschland Meutschland 8Cc FA by Niki Rusev (15)

Niki Rusev, the 2021 Combined European Champion, has done the FA of Deutschland Meutschland (8C) in Rila Monastery. It is 24 moves roof climbing that took the 15-year-old, eight sessions and three minutes to climb, Insta video. (8a normally reports such boulder routes like 8Cc in order to separate them from boulders.) (c) Vladimir Pekov

"On the last try before the sunset, I managed to finish off this crazy beautiful roof project above the Rila forest. 24 hard and long moves involving many important heel hooks. Actually, it’s closer to lead climbing style than bouldering. I also suffered at the last part in which I had to do a compression and put maybe the trickiest heel hook that most of the time slipped, so everything had to be perfect. I used to drink coffeе in the last resort, just to wake me up a little bit for the try."

The Boulder Youth World Champion did amazingly also win one Euro Youth in Speed as well as twice made the podium in Lead. His previous hardest boulder was 8A+ but he has done two 9a's and he feels like this could be graded as a 9a if it was a route.

What are your winter plans?
Our plan is to climb as much as possible on rocks until the new year because the new comp calendar is full of challenges. There are so many more beautiful lines like this, including routes. I have no excuse not to climb. I have everything I need and I think I'll take advantage ;)

Adam Ondra takes Magnus Midtbo, who runs the worlds biggest youtube climbing channel with 1 million subscribers, to his home crag Sloup and they climb one 5c and Ondra puts up Carmina burana (9a). Ondra gives interesting insights to Midtbö, about training, the Olympics and 10a etc.

Midtbö gets honest insights from Ondra climbing near Brno

Adam Ondra takes Magnus Midtbo, who runs the worlds biggest youtube climbing channel with 1 million subscribers, to his home crag Sloup and they climb one 5c and Ondra puts up Carmina burana (9a). Ondra gives interesting insights to Midtbö, about training, the Olympics and 10a etc.

MORE NEWS

Frontman Deluxe 9a by Christof Rauch

Christof Rauch, who previously in 2021 has done eleven routes 8c+ and 9a, has sent Frontman Deluxe (9a) in Allgäu. "Such a nice line! Short, powerful and crimpy. Love this style of climbing. Couldn‘t do one move some years ago, last week Domi convinced me to give it another try, I did the move and came close to send. Today everything clicked and I fought my way to the top. Thanks to Domi for the support!"

Interesting is that the Austrian started to focus on routes just in 2021. One reason for this is that he has pretty much done most of the hardcore boulders in his neighbourhood in combination with the travel restrictions. Furthermore, he has had different injuries in the last three years. In total, he has done 829 boulders 8A and harder although have been working full time for many years.

What is your next plan?
No special winter plans. I have a little elbow injury at the moment, so maybe I have to take some rest soon.

How much do you train and climb during a normal week?
I work 38,5h per week, from Monday till Thursday. Normally I train 2 days after work and climb 2 days at the weekend.

What about taking some time off and seeing how far you can reach?
I think there are much stronger guys out there and I need some money 😅

Paint it Black 8C by Austin Purdy

Paint it Black 8C by Austin Purdy

Austin Purdy has done Paint it Black (8C) in RMNP (CO). Interestingly, in the end it came down to some fingernails optimization that Austin describes below. Previoulsy, the 24-year-old has done 72 8B's, 17 8B+' and just one 8C, so we are talking about a record wide grade pyramid showing that there is room to make it more pointy.

"Paint It Black has been at the top of the list of boulders I want to do in Colorado since I moved here, but after trying it a little bit a few years ago I wrote it off due to my fat fingers not fitting inside of the tiny slot crux crimp. This year though I have been feeling a lot stronger and decided to return to it. I immediately felt a lot better on the boulder and also figured out that I could file down the tops of my fingernails the make my fingers thinner and fit them into the slot just deep enough to make it possible. After this discovery, the boulder went down relatively quickly!"

Goldrake 9a+ by Jonathan Siegrist

Goldrake 9a+ by Jonathan Siegrist

Jonathan Siegrist, who previously in 2021 has done two 9b's, has repeated Adam Ondra's Goldrake (9a+) in Cornalba, after just four sessions. "Incredible how there are really no great holds for the entire length of this awesome pitch. A true crimp strength endurance test-piece. The insane texture of the rock allows for some pretty exciting fights!" (c) Marco Zanone

The 36-year-old has posted an interesting write up on his Insta that begins with, "I think climbing your best is largely about quieting your mind enough to let your body do the work it’s been trained to do. I pride myself on being somewhat of a master in this realm but there have also been times when it feels next to impossible. Ultimately, I only succeed when my focus is the rock, the movement and the effort - and not on the outcome, consequences or my expectations."

Erebor 9b by Adam Ondra

Erebor 9b by Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra has done the second repeat, after Laura Rogora, of Stefano Ghisolfi's Erebor (9b) in Arco. It should be mentioned that both Stefano and Laura called it 9b/+ and Adam comments, after having taken it down in just four days, on Insta, including a video. "Regarding the grade, my suggestion is 9b. There are easier solutions for the upper crux compared to the original method of Stefano that is definitely 9b/b+ in my opinion." (c) Vojtech Vrzba

Adam also says that he thinks that Laura's ascent is, "one of the most impressive feats in climbing ever". He underlines that the downgrade is just his honest opinion although he is aware that he can be criticised for downgrading a route done by a female.

Flex Luthor 9b by Carlo Traversi

Flex Luthor 9b by Carlo Traversi

Carlo Traversi, who did his first 8C out of ten in 2011 and first 8C+ last year, has done Flex Luthor 9b in The Fortress, after some 15 sessions. "Dream route. No real opinion on grade, so going with Matty's suggestion for now. Definitely not easy."

It was opened in 2003 by Tommy Caldwell as the first 9a+ in America and last month, Matty Hong did the first repeat and suggested the upgrade. From Traversi's Insta.

"I’ve always been drawn to climbs that have both historical significance and an air of mystery surrounding them. In today’s day and age, that combination is getting harder to come by, with every piece of stone captured a million ways and cast out into the daily feed without a moments thought. While this sharing of information satisfies our immediate arm chair curiosity, it has the potential to rob us of a real experience complete with the trials and tribulations of understanding something for yourself. In American climbing, there is no route more shrouded in mystery than @tommycaldwell ‘s Flex Luther at The Fortress of Solitude."

What is next?
Doing Lead and Bouldering National Championships starting tomorrow. Then headed to Yosemite to try and free the Dihedral Wall. I also have a long time bouldering project in Yosemite that’ll hopefully go this season. So yeah, trying to stay at a high level in all disciplines.