Jan hojer is setting records in Rocklands, where in the past 9 days he has done 26 boulders 8A and harder. In total, Jan has flashed 4 8A+ problems, and came close on The Power of One 8B, having to drop off to rearrange the pads. In the last Boulder World Cup, the German was #3.
Sasha Digiulian has onsighted Encore, 8a+ and flashed L'ami de Tout le Monde, 8b in Céüse. The 20 year old is famous for having done two 9a routes, and she is #5 in the 8a game among the guys. Last year, Sasha finished 2nd in the Bouldering World Championships without any bouldering-specific training, or any previous experience at the event. She also finished 8th in the Lead competition, and won the Combined category. Sasha is planning on starting her University studies in New York City 3 weeks before the upcoming World Championships on September 12th in Paris, and will prepare without specific training again.
TOP IMAGES OF THE WEEK
The North Face have asked us to make a scorecard competition where you can win two airplane tickets and free accommodation to their Festival at Kalymnos 27-30 September. Based on discussions in the forum we will also make it like a lottery where you during July will get one ticket for equalling any personal best you make onsighting, flashing or redpointing a route. The winner will be drawn in the first week of August and we will simply draw a scorecard and if there is a personal best, this person will win. In order to win you also have to have at least 50 ascents recorded and out of which at least 10 during July.
Planetmountain reports the 2012 nominations for the Arco Rock legends. 8a has been invited along with 20 magazines from 14 countries to vote for the Awards. Who do you think 8a should vote for? La Sportiva Competition Award: Kilian Fischhuber, Anna Stöhr and Jakob Schubert (c) Giulio Malfer The Salewa Rock Award: Sasha DiGiulian, Dave Graham, Adam Ondra, Iker Pou and Daniel Woods
Dimitry Sharafutdinov, boulder world champion in 2007 and 20011 has put on his harness and done Ali-Hulk, 9a and some tries and days later he added the extension making it a 9a+. Baurock reports including picture and this quote from Dima, "Not really suitable route for bouldering climbers. As I tried to rest and recover I can't. But 7 days of working out paid back. I am glad that I gained good endurance but maximal power unfortunately will go down. Who knows those understand...". More info to come!
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Pirmin Bertle, one of the best rock climbers in the world, has for many years adapted his families to be more environmentally friendly. Five years ago, his fami…
Tomorrow (Monday, Dec 6th), from 7 am to ~8:30 am CET (0:00 to 1:30 AM MST), 8a will undergo maintenance. We need to take the site down during this time - sorry for the inconvenience. Once it is back up, you'll notice a better way of logging repeat ascents at your local crags.
Climbing is about creating challenges and solving them for their own sake. When climbers go out to climb, they usually do not feel the need to classify their climbs ('the hardest, the boldest, the longest...'), but they are often quantified and labelled by media and sponsors to facilitate their appr…
Over the years, I have received plenty of emails where climbers inform about high profile climbers cheating. The most common way to cheat seems to be using tight belay, i.e. rope drag stopping the pendulum swing while doing dynamic moves in an overhang. Personally, I have also witnessed it but then …
The best conditions are normally said to be around zero degrees and sunny or a couple of degrees warmer with no sun. On the other hand, cold fingers will not make you climb anything. The best tips on how to keep warm taking advantage of the prime conditions are actually to wear Vertic sleeves or som…