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Sierra Madre 8C by Stefan Scherz

Sierra Madre 8C by Stefan Scherz

Stefan Scherz, who in 2019 won Euro Youth Cups in Lead, Boulder and Combined, has done Sierra Madre (8C) in Zillertal. (c) Mathias Posch

Could you say something about the ascent and what is next?
I’ve been trying Sierra Madre on & off for some time now. I never felt great about it but now I went there in nice condition and sent it on my first try from the start. Amazing 13 moves, power-endurance testpiece, and maybe the hardest one in the area of Innsbruck. My plans for the next months are to have a good time on the rock and try something hard, before the training for the new season starts.

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Interview with Anak Verhoeven (updated)

Interview with Anak Verhoeven (updated)

Anak Verhoeven is historically speaking one of the best female Lead competition climbers. She made finals in the WC 36 times in a row. In total, she made the po…

The Polish Youth National rock climbing team

The Polish Youth National rock climbing team

Mateusz Haladaj has just been on a trip to Osp/Misja Pec with the Polish Youth National rock climbing team. We asked him if he could tell us how this team is se…

Bike to 8a

“Bike to Eight” is the name of the project created by Grenoble climbers Romain Noulette and Tanguy Topin joined by videographer Thibault Cattelain. Their project? Climb at the crags around Grenoble to tick off mythical routes in 8a grade by reaching the sectors by bike. As the first episode of their…

Complete closure of the ‘Badener Wand' (Battert) in Germany - sign petition!

Complete closure of the ‘Badener Wand' (Battert) in Germany - sign petition!

On the 9th of November 2022 the regional council in Karlsruhe, Germany announced that the crag ‘Badener Wand’ at the ‘Battertfels’ close to Baden-Baden will be …

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Helicopter v pošašt (8c) by Igor "Deda" Čorko (52)

Helicopter v pošašt (8c) by Igor "Deda" Čorko (52)

Last weekend 52 years old Igor Čorko aka Deda (eng. Grandpa) climbed his third 8c route. The route is "Helicopter v pošašt" 8c in Pajkova strekha, which is a combination of the routes "Helicopter v omaki" 8b and "Osapska pošašt" 8c. What’s interesting is that he did his first 8c at age 45. Two years ago, he did his second, two years after he fractured the arm and both heels.

We got the news from Roko Labrovic who comments. "It is again proof that persistence, will, and renunciation work miracles in life or at least in climbing. Let this be an inspiration to the younger generations. I think he is training 4 times per week. Climbing mostly outside, at least one training is indoor. One more thing that can be interesting is that he built 2 climbing gyms here in Varaždin, Croatia. In which he regularly maintains and sets routes, of course with some help of club members...and he has climbed 250+ routes, grades from 8a - 8c."

Forgotten G 8C and Ephyra 8C+ by Will Bosi

Forgotten G 8C and Ephyra 8C+ by Will Bosi

William Bosi has repeated Kim Marschner's Forgotten G (8C) in Chironico. "Amazing boulder that will be a future classic for sure!" (c) Sam Pratt

Yesterday, he also did James Webb'sEphyra (8C+) in Chironico. Two weeks ago, Will repeated Alphane (9A), saying his FA of Honey Badger (8C+), felt harder. When it comes to routes, the Brit has done close to 20 routes 9a to 9b+. Last year, he was #11 in the Lead World Championship but he has not done any comps this year.

Seta total 9a by Antonio Arregui (19)

Seta total 9a by Antonio Arregui (19)

Antonio Arregui, who had 8b+ as his PB two years ago, has done Seta total (9a) in Cuenca.

Could you say something about your climbing background and the ascent?
I started climbing in 2017 in the Cuenca gym. In December 2018 I sent my first 8a and since then I haven't stopped climbing. Last year I sent my first 8c+ "Seta Negra" and then I tried "Seta Total" but it was too hard for me so I wanted to wait until this autumn to try hard on this route. At first, it was so hard but while I was getting stronger the temperatures were cooler so I knew I could have a chance of sending this autumn.

How come it is basically only Cuenca climbs in your log-book?
My career doesn't allow me to go out of Cuenca because I study so much, but when I have free time I like to climb new crags.

What do you study and when will it be finished?
Veterinary medicine, in three years more or less.

Rammstein 8c by Katherine Choong

Rammstein 8c by Katherine Choong

Katherine Choong has done Rammstein (8c) in Soyhières. The 30-year-old is a former competition climber who some 30 times has been top-30 in the World Cup. She has previously done two 9a’s and several hard MP’s up to 8b+. In other words, her track record is one of the most impressive out there. (c) Laurent Enard

"I first tried this route at the beginning of 2021 and I spent a lot of time there. The route presents difficult boulder sections interspersed with easier sections and ends with a dyno on a final sloper where I knew a lot of climbers had fallen. Often too hot or wet, it is complicated to find good conditions at Soyhières. This past Sunday, I was really tired after a bouldering competition the day before. But the good conditions and I had no expectations, I finally pass the bottom crux and the second one (with a one-finger pocket) and reach the top without falling in the final dyno! I am particularly happy with this climb, a route that is not in my style (bouldering and dynamic)."

Chiroptera 9a+ by Pepa Šindel (15)

Chiroptera 9a+ by Pepa Šindel (15)

Ella Adamovska has sent us the great news that Pepa Šindel, who previously has done three 8c+, has made the first repeat of Michal Mikušínec' Chiroptera 9a+. In the nice video, we can hear he has Adam Ondra as his idol.

"The first 10 moves are around 8b climbing followed by the real deal crux which consists of 5 boulder moves on sharp mono pockets. The line is for sure very specific which confirms the fact that it’s already been unsuccessfully tried by Adam Ondra but remained unrepeated until Pepa’s send the last weekend.

Pepa said that he’s decided to try Chiroptera for the first time at the end of August. Since the weather wasn’t very good during September, he focused on training and other climbing areas and only stopped by Sulov a few times. October was the month of promising conditions that allowed Pepa to try more frequently, visiting the route once a week with his family. Eventually, he managed to send it this weekend after around 25 attempts.

Pepa is well known for being one of the smallest climbers. He is 153cm, very lightweighted and thin fingers could seem like an advantage for this kind of climbing but the truth is that for these small climbers it’s much harder to deal with most of the moves that taller climbers don’t even find problematic and they are always forced to find their own beta."

Furia de Jabali 9a+ (b) by Michal Mikušínec

Furia de Jabali 9a+ (b) by Michal Mikušínec

Michal Mikušínec has repeated Will Bosi’s Furia de Jabali 9a+ (b) in Siurana. (c) Tomáš Buček

"Furia is a super intense crimpy route, 12 really hard moves. It fits my style pretty well. I really like crimps and I’m quite tall which is an advantage in this route. On this route, I spent four days and send it on the last day of the trip. I’m planning to come back in winter to check other routes in this sector."

Mecanique Elementaire 8B+ by Staša Gejo

Mecanique Elementaire 8B+ by Staša Gejo

Staša Gejo has sent Mécanique élémentaire (8B+) in Fontainebleau. "After 3 sessions last week, and falling at the swing around 5 or 6 times, I did it with frozen fingers, pumped and exhausted. It was a battle to remember. I was incredibly happy though. I had so many people support me and push me till the end." More info on her Insta (c) Matt Groom

Melissa Le Nevé did the first female ascent of it in 2017 but otherwise, besides Oriane Bertone, no other females have sent 8B+ in Font. In 2021, Gejo got the bronze in the World Championship.

Did you do any specific or replica training and what was the trick in the end for the send?
I didn't train specifically for it, just practiced the moves on the project. The trick was to get up on the right foot just before the swing. Also, maybe because I reminded myself to enjoy the story of the boulder, its moves and holds.