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From dirt grows the flowers 8C by James Webb  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has repeated Dave Graham’s From dirt grows the flowers 8C in Cresciano. "One of the best. Big props to DG for this one!" Felt good to finish such a classic though! So many amazing projects here. Overwhelmed :) (c) Keenan Takahashi

 
 
Adam Ondra: Road to Tokyo #6  Facebook
 

 
 
The Story of Two Worlds 8C by Luis Gerhardt  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLuis Gerhardt reports on Insta that he has done The Story of Two Worlds 8C in Cresciano, which would be his first. (c) Felix Hoffman

"I started trying it back in January but can’t tell exactly how many sessions I needed because I only tried at the weekends. So maybe around 8 - 10 sessions. The key thing was definitely the struggle with the conditions. Also did it two times in a row because I slightly touched the tree in my first try at 0.30 am. After that I felt pretty confident and was able to climb it half an hour later."

The Story of Two Worlds was put up by David Graham in 2005 and the name related to the grade inflation at that time. "The new standard" of 8C was David's message which in practice down graded several hard core boulders in especially Ticino. Although many thought it was super hard for 8C in 2005, it is today considered a soft entry 8C with 14 repeats. It is also one of the most famous best boulderers out there.

 
 
8C by Dai Koyamada (42)  Facebook
 

Dai Koyamada reports on Insta that he has finally done one of his dream project in Hiei, calling it probably 8C.

The 42 year old did his first 8C in 2003, Byaku-dou in Hourai. In total he has now done around 25 8C's out of which around 20 FA's. Daniel Woods is runner up in the 8C FA list with around 14.

 
 
Slovenia dominate Studio Bloc Masters  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture1. Janja Garnbret SLO - Anze Perharc SLO
2. Mia Krampl SLO - Sergii Topishko UKR
3. Jessica Pilz AUT - Vadim Timonov RUS
4. Katja Kadic SLO - Jakob Schubert AUT
5. Lucka Rakovec SLO - Jernej Kruder SLO
(c) Eddie Fowke

Janja Garnbret won all three stages in a rather superior style. She did all 4 + 4 boulders in both the semi and the final where the overall runner-up Mia Krampl did do 2 + 2. Amazingly, Slovenia had seven in Top-10.

Among the male, the podium was sensational. The winner Anze Peharc, #3 in the Euro CH in 2017, was #25 in the WC last year and the runner up Sergii Topishko was #23. Vadim Timonov was #25 in the WCH in Innsbruck.

Interesting is that the three Top-8 in the 2018 WC, Jongwon Chon was #8, Gregor Vezonik was 10 and Tomoaki Takata was #17. The 2019 French Champion Jeremy Bonder was #23. Complete results In total 149 female and 326 male participated.

 
 
Sid Lives 9a (8c+) by Carnati and Silvio  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureReffo Silvio and Stefano Carnati, who the last month previously has done two 8c+', have repeated Gabri Moroni's Sid Lives in Arco. Both giving it 8c+. (c) Luca Bana - Reffo Silvio.

"Two tries yesterday evening and three more today. Super short and super cool! Loved that pinches! Thanks Gabri for the vision! Everybody knows it’s hard to grade this kind of “routes”. I think the whole could be 8B boulder. Therefore Imho it coulde be 8c+. Climbing a 9a so fast is a goal of mine but will stay as such for now!"

It should noted that Gabri did say "9a?". Further more, several have made quick ascents and set 9a personal best with Sid Lives.

 
 
Délire Onirique assis 8C by Ryohei Kameyama  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRyohei Kameyama has done Délire Onirique assis 8C in Fontainbleau in just three sessions. Both the two first ascents were done with a figure 4 move but Kameyama opted to dyno to the small crimp instead. During the last two weeks the 22 year old has also done La Révolutionnaire 8C+ (4 sessions) and No Kpote only 9A (5 sessions), meaning the 176 cm tall and 60 kg, has set a new world standard in bouldering. All three boulders was put up by Charles Alber barefoot. (c) Ryosuke Hibino

"I contacted him and I was informed about the boulders. I think "La Revolutionnaire" is the best but all boulders have cool moves. I think overhang like 100〜150° is my style. I like the rock of this boulders because they include simple difficult moves in many styles.

I want to try Burden of Dream again this year. I think it is the hardest boulder in the world now but It's uncertain because this is only my opinion.

 
 
Jacopo Larcher does the world's hardest trad?  (32) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJacopo Larcher, who three years ago did La Rambla 9a+, has done his hardest route ever. "I have never invested so much time in a route before. Anyway, I decided not to grade it ;)"

The Italian found it six years ago and the last year the 25 meter line in Cadarese, Italy, has been his big focus. He says that he has worked on it during possibly 50 sessions or more. In regards placing the gear, Jacopo says it is not so hard to place. "It just makes it more pumpy between the two hard sections." (c) Paolo Sartoro Photo

It is a well known fact that trad grades are harder than sport grades. One reason for this is that in the beginning of the sport era, you had to place the quick draws as you were climbing as you had to place the trad gear. Later, the sport ethics changed towards pre-placed quick draws. Further more, it seems that at the same time we have seen grade inflation for sport routes there has been deflation for trad. Currently there exist some four 8c+ trad routes meaning that there possibly should be a two grades gap comparing it to sport routes.

Understanding that the gear placement did not have so much impact on the difficulty for Larcher, it just might have been 9a+ or 9b with bolts. So what do you think? Did Jacopo do the first 9a trad route in the world?

 
 
Papichulo 9a+ by Margo Hayes  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes reports on Insta that she Papichulo 9a+ in Oliana. Including her two previous 9a+', La Rambla and Biographie, the 21 year old is a contendor for having the best ever female tick list. (c) Jan Novak.

Last year she was #10 in the World Championship. In two weeks, she will change the 45 m wall in Oliana to compete in the bouldering WC in Meiringen, hopefully to get a good start on her Olympic quest.

 
 
Pata Ledovce 8C by Martin Stráník  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMartin Stráník, #2 in the World Champion in 2007, has made the first repeat of Adam Ondra’s Pata Ledovce 8C in Holstejn. In the 8a ranking game the 29 year old Czech is #3. Video

"4 days this year, I have never thought that these moves are possible but it has changed this year, great climbing including power, finger strenght and technique. First repeat of some Adam´s 8C in CZ."

In two weeks time, Martin will compete in Meiringen where he got the silver in 2016. (c) Jakub Konečný

My ambition is to compete on 'Europe' world cups in lead and bouldering and in Tokyo (World Championship). I am also trying to learn speed, but not too much as I could cause I am still working full time (meteorologist).

 
 
Valhalla 9a+ possibly the hardest MP in the world  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureFirst he was assisted by his brother for two months drilling and hammering in 250 bolts. On the second trip, which lasted five months, his father was mainly his partner. Waking up at 06.00 for breakfast then walking 1.5 hour before starting climbing or jumaring to the roof.

"It was the hardest process of my life to be totally focus on this project for 2 + 5 months. I feel really happy to finish this crazy project. I did not know if it was possible to climb free. I was worried about to find some impossible points for climbing.

Every two weeks I had to go to Guiyang to train indoors to keep my power. It was also hard to not talk to people for a long time because the Chines in general do not talk English."


Edu did his first 9a being 17 years old and he has previously done three 9a+ and Chilam Balam 9a+/b. With 14 pitches including one 9a+ and two 8c+', Valhalla is a contender for being the hardest graded multi-pitch in the world. The FA took nine hours. Some days ago, he fell on pitch 12 after a foot hold broke. More info and pictures on his Insta (c) David Lopez Campe

 
 
Valhalla 9a+ FA by Edu Marin - 304 m roof!  (1) Facebook
 

Edu Marin, who in 2006 won the World Cup in Chamonix, has done the FA of Valhalla 9a+ in Getu which has 14 pitches and overhangs by 304 meter. More info to come.

 
 
Squoze 8C by Taylor McNeill  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTaylor McNeill has done his third 8C, Squoze in Red Rocks. Video on his Insta

"Couldn’t do any of the 3 hard moves for my first two days on it. Had a breakthrough on day 3, but still had some figures to do. Day 4 I sorted it out and somehow got it done Hardest I’ve ever climbed in shorts. Dope one from Jwebb. Hard to say on the grade. It’s the fastest I’ve ever done a boulder this hard but I’m also feeling really fit."

 
 
8c again by Anna Stöhr  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnna Stöhr, possibly the best ever female competition boulderer, could not participate in the WCH last year due to a back injury. Last month she reported on Insta that she for the first time did not think of her back and did her hardest route Riflessi 8c. Yesterday, the bouldering queen did one more long endurance, Cinque Uve in Arco. (c) Michele Bort

Anna has won both the World and the European Championship twice. Four years she has won the Boulder World Cup overall and in total the Austrian has won 22 WCs. In 2010, she became the second women to do an 8B, Riverbed.

 
 
Two 8B+' by Matt Fultz in a day  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatt Fultz has had a great day in RMNP, having done two 8B+' in a day. In total the 27 year old has done 21 boulders 8B+ and as can be seen on his scorecard, he has been on a ten year almost steady progress. More info on his Insta.

How have you been able to raise your level in 2019?
The US Bouldering competition ended a couple months ago, so I have been 100% climbing outside or training on the hangboard/Tensionboard/ Moonboard. Just improving finger strength and power, and not worrying about long days in the gym doing comp-style problems. But most importantly, I’ve been psyched!

 
 
Life Of Villains 9a (+) by Jonathan Siegrist  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Siegrist has done the second repeat of Joe Kinder's Life Of Villains in Hurricave giving it a personal 9a grade. "It was a long and ferocious winter but through fiery stubbornness and many wet climbing days something cool finally."

In total, the 33 year old has done 40 routes 9a to 9b and he is #3 in the 8a ranking game. (c) Chris Weidner

 
 
Sid Lives 9a by Enrico Lovato  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEnrico Lovato jumps 8c+ and does his first 9a, Sid Lives in Arco. (c) Lorenzo Rossato

"Two weeks ago I was advised by a friend of mine to try a short bouldery 9a in Nago crag, near Arco. The route consist of a 8b Boulder into an another 7b Boulder without any rest. In the first session I figured it out all the moves and after the 2nd session I began to fall high. In the 6th session I won the mental battle against this intense route. The strange thing is that I’ve never done an 8c+ route, I usually dislike long and endurance routes, and considering I love bouldering, I found this route very similar to my climbing style, so I didn’t care about the grade. I think maximal force trainings, using moonboard and hangboard, helped me a lot to achieve the goal."

 
 
La Rambla 9a+ by Gonzalo Larrocha  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGonzalo Larrocha has done his second 9a+, La Rambla in Siurana. More info to come. (c) Javi Pec

 
 
La Révolutionnaire 8C+ by Ryohei Kameyama  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRyohei Kameyama, who just recently did the first repeat of Charles Albert's No kpote only 9A (8C+) in Fontainebleau has done the equivalent by doing La Révolutionnaire 8C+. It only took him four sessions. (c) Ryosuke Hibino

"This boulder has small crimps and slopers, so I struggled to maintain my endurance. Next project I think is "Trip hop" (8C). I couldn't climb this boulder my last bleau trip."

How do you train?
I feel my training key is campus board training. I often do ladder training. ladder training is simple. climb up and down, but I perform it as fast as possible and long time. It train endurance and agility, finger strength.

 
 
Two 9a's by Gabriele Gorobey in Osp/Misja Pec  Facebook
 

Gabriele Gorobey reports on Facebook that he has had some amazing days in Osp/Misja Pec having done his two very first 9a'; Halupca 1979 and Sanjski par extension. The multi-discipline climber, is known for establishing everything from hard core boulders to big walls.

 
SEVDA GEYİK

Kleopatra 8a, Alabalık/
Geyikbayırı
 
Gus Carter

Planet of the Apes V7/7
A+
 
Ricardo Costa

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Calvin Wagner

Green Lantern (Low) 7b+
, HP 40
 
Gus Carter

Ninja Gaeshi Sit, V8, M
itake, Japan
 
Miska Izakovicova

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Maria Amzaroiu (f)

GEYIKBAYIRI Mevlana - B
oys are back in town
 
Jon Shen

Flofo Grunewald on Fata
Morgana (8a).
 
Nicholas Allan

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climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Lando Peters

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Katrin Gründler

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climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Katrin Gründler

roof warrior
 
Fabian Gomiz Lopez

El manso (sit) 7B ville
na
 
Andrew conroy

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climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Incze Ábel

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Christian Welkhammer

Hard of Gold (fb7c+/8a)
, Rabennest
 
Bram Honorez

La persistencia de la m
emoria 8A+, chironico
 
Bram Honorez

el varano, 7C+ Albarra
cin
 
Search & Add Ascents
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
NORTH 3: Gietl & Messini on Ortles, Cima Grande and Grossglockner link up  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureSimon Gietl and Vitto Messini wanted to see how far they could go. By climbing three big north faces, riding from one to the next. They covered 9,628 m of elevation and rode 391 km in under 48 hours. Hans Kammerlander and Hans-Peter Eisendle first linked the Ortles and Cima Grande in 1991 by fair means. North3 goes one step further – by adding the Großglockner and a further 117 km by bike.

It took eight months of training, including thousands of kilometres in the saddle. Mental preparation played a big role too –to be able focus on the climbs, despite the lack of sleep. Poor weather made things harder, eventually forcing them to opt for an alternative route on the Tre Cime. North3 is more than just a project – it’s an anthem to human willpower and smiling in the face of adversity. Get the full story and watch the video here.
 
All Top-7 female in Studio Bloc Master qually from Slovenia  Facebook
World Champion Jessica Pilz from Austria was #8 in the Studio Bloc Master with 604 points. Well in front of her were seven Slovenians with Janja Garnbret at top. Among the male, Jongwon Chon won the qualification. In total 149 women and 326 male participated. Complete results

The Top-20 semifinal will be live-streamed on Sunday 11.30 and the final 16.00 based on normal IFSC rules. In the qualification, there were 80 boulders to choose from. The winners gets Euro 3 000.
 
Best Climbing Shoes - 2019?  Facebook
For the fifth year in a row...

 
Adam Ondra Road to Tokyo #5  Facebook
 
Kruder's up-side-down beta  Facebook
The Slovenian team had a comp simulation on Boulderwelt München and Kruder did go up-side-down!

 
222 participants in Meiringen 5-6/4  (13) Facebook
Last year there were 208 participants in Meiringen and this year there are 222 in the Starting List. Each country are allowed to participate with five male and five female plus the Top-10 in the world ranking, which means Japan will participate with ten males.

In the qualification, it is the highest ranked who start first. Among the ones, who did not get Top-30 in any World Cup or WCH, the starting order is done by random. In practice, this mean that Stefano Ghisolfi could start last having to fight both worse friction and higher temperature in comparison to the guys going out first. Noteworthy is that Gabri Moroni, who won one event last year, will not compete for Italy as they have made in mandatory to go for all three disciplines, in order to get support.

In the schedule, it says that the isolation will close 08.00 for the male and that the female will be finished by 22.00. Based on the large number of participants, they possibly will have to extend it. Ghisolfi just might have to spend 6 hours in isolation.
 
Raboutou and Cameroni in Valais  Facebook
 
38 % (3 000 routes) access ban in Grampians - Petition  (3) Facebook
Save Grampians Climbing: "It is with shock and confusion that Australia’s climbing community has received news from Parks Victoria about substantial access bans to over 3,000 climbs (38% of total climbs) in the Grampians National Park. Sign a Petition - Stop Climbing From Being Banned in the Grampians.
 
14th Plenary Assembly in Tokyo: Olympics, Gender and Para  Facebook
The 14th IFSC Plenary Assembly took place this week in Tokyo and Olympics, Gender equality and Para climbing were on the agenda.

"The proposal to add a female athlete representative to the IFSC Executive Board was approved during the IFSC Plenary Assembly on Saturday. The representative will be elected at the upcoming IFSC World Championships in Hachioji in August, alongside other members of the Athletes’ Commission. A new career path is also being put into place to include more women on the routesetting and officiating teams for IFSC events."

It was decided that the World Championship in 2021 will take place in Moscow. Further more, Vertical-Life did a presentation in regards the new results system they are developing. "The workshop concluded with a presentation from Matthias Polig, CEO of Vertical-Life. Contracted to develop a new membership database and competition result software, the company provides a range of digital tools to improve climbing development. Matthias’ presentation gave attendees a view of the digital future of our sport."
 
New competition stars 2019  Facebook
It is less then a month before the World Cup season will start. Here are some names that might be the new starts in 2019.

Vadim Timonov, Yannick Flohe, Sam Avezou, Natsumi Hirano, Luka Potocar, Naile Meignan, Laura Lammer. Any more names you think can evolve to become a star 2019 on the senior circuit.
 


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