Vertical-Life
Interview with Martina Cufar
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Pic Marko Prezelj |
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Martina with her father in 1988 |
style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">What do you like most about climbing?
The fact that every practice, every move can be new, different, and that daily, one can learn something new about him/herself, about the movement itself. And its a constant source of challenges. But what I enjoy most is climbing abroad, in new climbing areas, meeting new people and places, and not thinking about anything else but the route ahead.
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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Who discovered your talent? I believe it was myself. Once I have tried it I knew that was it, and then I kept bugging dad to take me climbing. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
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What are you goals for the future? I have never set any long-term goals. At the moment rock climbing is my priority, either shorter or longer routes. I also wish to visit , climb an 8c route and prove to myself that I am still capable of achieving top positions in the world cup. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
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How do you train? I train a lot but employ variety. I don't have a trainer. I train in a way that makes me enjoy each and every training session. I do a lot of rock climbing, the rhythm being two days of climbing followed by a days rest. In addition to that, I do yoga in the morning, I run a lot, rollerblade and cycle. I also do power exercises in my home fitness studio. Lately, I have been spending increasing amounts of time on mental training (relaxation techniques, visualisation
).
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Where do you prefer to climb and why? Outside! I love nature, fresh air, the feeling of rock on my skin
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Do you pay attention to what you eat? I believe that good, healthy food is just as important as good practice. If you do not provide your body with what it needs, or if you burden it with too much food, than you cannot expect to be in top form. That is why I really focus on eating healthily: wholemeal bread style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">, no sugar or frozen food, lots of fruit and vegetables, and also meat and fish. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
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What about competitions and eating?
I am always food conscious. Its not just about good results, health is the most important. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
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What does climbing mean to you?
It provides purpose to my life. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
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Describe your perfect climbing day.
I am awaken by the singing of birds. The morning is crisp, the air is fresh. I salute the sun and do some yoga. After a good breakfast with my friends, we drive to a new crag with beautiful routes, preferably with some stalactites. I notice the route of the day immediately, lets say an 8a
Then I look at it and make plans. After a good warm up I start the route. I have to do my best, push very hard, right up to my limit, but I focus and succeed. The joy of reaching the top, the fatigue in my body
I fall asleep with memories of another beautiful day. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">
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Can you comment on your hardest routes including Hotel Supramonte?
I live my hardest routes, climb them in my head countless times before actually climbing them. I get really emotionally attached to the routes. It is a really pleasurable experience to observe yourself do the hardest parts with the body moving by itself, and you feel the rock helping you reach the top (provided you have invested enough), and you do not think of anything else but the holds, the breathing and the contact with nature. Hotel was one of those perfect days! 10 pitches without a fall, a success for both Marko (Lukic) and me, and then resting on the sunny beach and the warm sea
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What will you do once youve stopped climbing? Climb J
Sponsors?
Five Ten, Beal, Vrh and the Slovenian Army.
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Any advice you could give young climbers? Do not compete with the others, compete with yourself.
From the very good website of www.martinacufar.com
"Since I grew up gazing at the peak of Triglav, Slovenia's highest mountain, it's no surprise that I would want to reach it. So I did when I was nine. But walking up seemed to tame so next time my father took me up the North face. Although the route was easy I was scared by the falling rocks, so I didn't like mountain climbing very much. But then, in 1988 when I was 11, I went to youth mountaineering camp in Austria and that's where I fell in love. Not with a boy but with sport climbing. We climbed on an artificial wall and that was something new for me: pushing my limits, swinging on the rope
After coming home I only wanted to climb. My dad put a piton on the top ob 5m boulder near our house and that was my beginning. Then he started driving me to the cliffs and artificial walls farther and farther from home. In 1990 the first Slovenian junior competition was held. I came in 3rd
among the boys! That was great motivation for more training. Soon I became the member of national team. In 1993 I competed in my first World Cup in Frankfurt and finished at the bottom. But with each experiance I was getting better and better. I reached my first final in Birmingham in 1994, the podium in Courmayeur 1997 and finally the winner's stand in Chamonix 2001. The same year I became World champion. In the next years I was on the podium of the World Cup many times, but most of all I am proud of my victory in Serre Chevaier 2002, where I climbed to the top even in the superfinal.
Year 2003 was a turning point in many aspects; I lost my father in an avalanche. It was a big shock for me, since we were very close to each other. He helped me a lot in my climbing career and made many other sport becoming a part of my life. In comparison to this event, competitions became worthless to me, I started to feel the routine. So in 2004 I decided to left them for a while, and dedicate myself more to rock climbing. The best achievement was a 300m route on Sardinia - Hotel Supramonte, where two pitches are graded 8b. I did the first women ascent.In 2005 I want to compete again as well as raise my limits in rock climbing. My big wish is to go to Yosemite and climb El Capitan, but for this I will have to learn a lot about crack climbing."