Vertical-Life
Natalija Gros
Martina Cufar interviews Natalija Gros, #5 in ICC world ranking and three times Youth Champion, who will continue the relay with David Graham... Misja Pec - Pic Urban Golob Kranj 2004 - Pic Urban Golob #3 in Kranj - Pic: Samo Vidic Natalija in Misja pec - Pic Urban Golob
It's not easy to do an interview with someone you know as well as I know Natalija. Since 2002 we have been training together and we have become very good friends. We have learned from each other. Not just climbing skills but also things that are important in everyday life. She's almost eight years younger than me, but I really don't feel the difference. The funny thing is, that I used to be her idol in her early age of climbing; but just till the moment when I pierced my nose. For her, it's very important how one looks; she spends a lot of time in the bathroom before competition to do her make-up. She would be happy if there would be such rules in climbing like in figure skating; where also the artistic impression counts. And I bet she would get the most points there; not only due to her look but most of all due to her elegant climbing style. Lets get more serious!
Martina and Natalija after her first 8b+ dec 22,: Marko Prezelj
Natalija, I won't ask you when and why you started climbing, because I know you began to climb on artificial wall when you were six years old. www.8a.nu is a site more oriented towards rock climbing, so do you remember when and where you first touched the rock?
Yes, I remember vividly when we set out to go climbing in the rock for the first time. It was shortly after I became acquainted with artificial wall. The 'project' going to the rock had been announced one week in advance. It was a beautiful sunny day and we didn't go very far. We stayed in my hometown Skofja Loka, under a nearby hill. When I first saw that rock, which is today already too small for me, I was excited, yet a bit scared. I was just roped into the route named 'Piton', graded 4b. I had to fight a lot, but I succeed in the first attempt.
When we first trained together I was impressed by her open finger power. And I still get annoyed when on the hold that is just big enough for me to crimp it, she manages to match three fingers of each hand and rest. Open grip is her big advantage. But in her last route, Kaj ti je deklica, 8b+, she had to crimp one hold. Natalija, where do you think you got this open hold power and how small has to be a hold that you have to crimp it?
Since the beginning I have never use the closed crimp. I knew that this kind of grip exists, as Eva Tusar, my then climbing partner used it all the time. But it simply did't fit me, I think because of my long fingers. Besides I often heard it was dangerous for injuries and thus I didn't even try to get to used to it. In the route 'Kaj ti je deklica' there was a small crimper, which I couldn't hold with an open grip, therefore I tried to close it. Even though this way, I was weaker, it felt comfortable. In my opinion, it is not the size but the shape of a hold that determines how I take it.
She has a very strong head and she is competitive. If she decides to do something, she will do it. It's amazing how much energy she can invest in one route, especially on a artificial wall and on competitions. She enters her own world, she maybe looks a bit special and antisocial, but I know why; because she's very concentrated on the route that is waiting for her, and there she will explode. Natalija, before a very important competition, where your goal is the podium, what do you see in me; a friend or someone to beat? Ok, this year it was not so hard to beat me, but let's say I would be as strong as Maja Vidmar?
In the rock she feels a bit insecure, especially in the long routes or high over the last quickdrawer. If on the an artificial wall Natalija is predominantly stronger than me, the situation is reverse in the rock. Natalija, how do you feel in the rock comparing to an artificial wall? Do you think that in the future you will have the same motivation for the rock as now for competitions, or is the rock for you just a place to relax a bit on the sun?
In the rock I sometimes don't feel secure, I'm especially afraid of falling. I think however, that if I dedicated as much time and energy to the rock as I do now to artificial wall, this feeling would slowly disappear and my self-confidence would grow. Currently I give advantage to the competitions and do not focus extensively to the rock. In the future however I certainly intend to climb a few more demanding route and overcome my 'rock fears and boundaries'.
Since October me and Natalija have a common trainer; the trainer that used to be her trainer for 6 years from 1996 till 2002 - Ales Jensterle. Natalija how would you present our coach to the 8a members?
He is undoubtedly the best trainer! I have had three trainers in my life and after we finished our cooperation, I was willing to train myself, just because I have always sworn by him. His three principles: the perfection of movement, moral cleanliness and spiritual wealth, tell everything.
Where do you think you still have some reserves and in which aspects Ales can help you to become a better climber?
I think that mostly in more disciplined training. Furthermore, in strength and endurance, where I still haven't reached the peak, in climbing technique, which is often neglected, and mostly in discovering myself and my limits that are in my head.I know it is not an innovative question, but since the new year has just began; What are your plans for this year? Not only on competitions also in non-climbing part of your life?
My plans for this year as far as the competition scene is still not clearly defined. I certainly wish and will strive for the highest places. I would like to go on a climbing trip for 2 weeks. Further, I would like to pass as many exams as possible, so that I can enroll in the third year of my study and major in dance, which is becoming my third love.
And four more questions from the www.8a.nu editor, Jens Larssen:
Why do you think that Slovenians are dominating in climbing?
Yes, this specially holds for the 'devilish Slovenian girls'(as they call us in Slovenia). I think the answer to this question is in our desire to prove that being from a small country doesn't mean we are inferior. And maybe this willpower keeps us moving forward and fuels us with additional motivation. It seems that this is in our genes.
When will the Slovenian team come and climb in Scandinavia?
This I really don't know. Scandinavia isn't known like a common destination for climbing trainings, but if you are inviting us, we will start thinking about coming to visit you.
How much do we have to pay you here in order to make you an 8a member?
I don't have any good excuse for not being an 8a member. It's simply because I am too lazy for these things and that I spent very little time by the computer. But some days ago I registered and now I will do my best to update my page regularly.
Who would you like to interview in this relay and more important why?
I can do it with Dave Graham, if you want. He's funny!