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Steppenwolf 8B flash by Matt Fultz  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatt Fultz has had a great start of his Ticino trip. Five days ago he did 28 boulders up to 8A in order to celebrate his 28th birthday. Yesterday, he did his first 8B flash, Steppenwolf in Magic Wood. (c) Freddy High

In total, he has done 11 boulders 8A and harder including two 8B+' in the first ten days. In the 8a ranking game, he is now #6 after having had ten years of almost straight progress.

 
 
Poor Olympic qually results for the Americans  Facebook
 

Sean McColl from Canada, who has won the Combined WCH three times, has had a bad start in the World Cup in 2019 as well the whole male USA team. Nathaniel Coleman is #22 in the Bouldering WC and Sean is #32. The rest of the male from Canada and USA have in total not once been in Top-25 although competing with normally 3 + 4 guys, during the five events.

Among the female it is better with Alannah Yip from Canada #12 and for USA, Alex Johnson #13 overall, followed by Kyra Kondie #22. On the other hand, big names like Ashima Shiraishi, Brooke Raboutou and Margo Hayes have not done performed according expectations.

In two weeks, the last Boulder World Cup in Vail takes place. If there will be any Americans in the Olympic Top-20 qualification event in Toulouse in November it is time to step up. As it stands, Nathaniel Coleman and Allanah Yip have the best chance as they have done some relatively good results in Speed. However until now, no American have been Top-6 and this is crucial as the Combined ranking is based on just multiplication of the two best results. In order to qualify to Toulouse, you are better off with one or two really good results in each discipline, instead of being multiple times around position #15.

 
 
Swiss Grid  Facebook
 

 
 
Grampians  Facebook
 

 
 
Victory for Schubert and Garnbret in Munich  (11) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra did the first three boulder first go and it seemed he had secured the win. Then Jakob Schubert did the fourth boulder putting some pressure on Ondra to at least get the zone but he did not get very close actually. This was the third WC Boulder victory for Schubert who also has won 18 Lead WC's. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Jakob Schubert AUT 34 - Janja Garnbret SLO 44
2. Adam Ondra CZE 33 - Fanny Gibert FRA 44
3. Jan Hojer GER 24 - Mia Krampl SLO 33
4. Aleksey Rubtsov RUS 23 - Julia Chanourdie FRA 22
5. Anze Peharc SLO 14 - Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR 13
6. Jongwon Chon KOR 13 - Katja Kadic SLO 12
Complete results

Among the female, Janja Garnbret won her seventh straight Boulder World Cup by just needing five attempts for the four final boulders. Runner-up was Fanny Gibert needing eight tries to top them all.

It most be mentioned that the five best male Japanese who all where in the Top-7, two weeks ago, did not participate as they are training and competing at home as a preparation for the WCH. Among the female, six of the Top-8 in Wujiang, out of which the four best from Japan, did also not participate.

 
 
Munich Finals 17.00  Facebook
 

 
 
Munich semi  Facebook
 

 
 
Overall after five out of six events  Facebook
 

Counting four out of five before the last WC in Vail in June.
1. Adam Ondra CZE 284 - Janja Garnbret SLO 400
2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 260 - Fanny Gibert FRA 243
3. Anze Peharc SLO 193 - Akiyo Noguchi JPN 240
4. Kokoro Fujii JPN 190 - Jessica Pilz AUT 194
5. Jakob Schubert AUT 184 - Petra Klingler 180
6. Jernej Kruder SLO 182 - Futaba Ito JPN 178
7. Alexsey Rubtsov RUS 180 - Katja Kadic SLO 147
8. Rei Sugimoto JPN 171 - Shauna Coxsey 145
Complete results

In practice, the overall male title is a battle in between Adam Ondra and Tomoa Narasaki although all Top-5 can in theory win. If Tomoa wins in Vail, Adam need to be runner up.

 
 
Sid Lives 9a (8c+) by Alexander Feichter  Facebook
 


Sid Lives (11) - Alexander Feichter from Alexander Feichter on Vimeo.

 
 
Ondra and Garnbret win the semi  Facebook
 

Janja Garnbret must have set some kind of superiority record in the semi in Munich by doing all four boulders in eight tries at the same time runner up Ievgeniia Kazbekova did just get one top and no extra zones. Imagine how the route setters felt as it took 300+ attempts until the first top! Half of the field did at most do one zone out of which four no zones at all.

Among the male, Adam Ondra won being the only one to top all four boulders. Strangely enough, the Japanese who were among the best in the qually were all among the last in the semi. Complete results

 
 
5 female and 3 male from Slovenia in Top-12  (3) Facebook
 

Slovenia with two million inhabitants dominated the qually in Munich when Japan had nine of their Top-10 absent. Anyhow, three of the Top-7 male were from Japan. The winners of the respectively groups were Janja Garnbret, Urska Repusic, Yoshiyuki Ogata and Anze Peharc. Complete results

 
 
Fred Rouhling's Akira 8C+ instead of 9b?  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn 1995, Fred Rouhling put up Akira at Le Périgord as the world's first 9b in 1995, when 9a+ did not exist, after several months of projecting. It starts with an horizontal 12 meter boulder roof and then you tie in and finish an eight meter 8a, video. Previously he had done some 9a and 8B+ out of which some are still not repeated. Back then and until Climbing.com presented an article in 2004 most thought he was a liar, although 8a had backed him up. Still, he has not gotten the full credit for taking the biggest grade step in the history of climbing.

Chatting with him you understand that possibly it would have been best to suggest 9a+ or even better 8C in 1995 and indicate that it could be harder waiting for an upgrade.

"For sure now it’s obvious but at that moment there was nothing comparable. There was not even any crash pads and no roof boulders in Fontainebleau or elsewhere. Fred Nicole open the first 8B+ Radja in 1995 the same year of Akira. If I have said 8C+ it would have been the same problem."

Fred has done a total of six FA 9a or harder including Salamandre 9a+ and the three unrepeated; De l’autre côté du ciel 9a, Mandallaz drive 9a, pictured, and Empreintes 9a+.

"I was quite obsessed with the limit between the possible and the impossible. It’s only in the first ascent that we can have this sensation. It is not funny to have detractors but on the other hand to have done things that other consider impossible it’s a consecration especially if these climbers are supposed to be among the best."

Many of the best including Alex Huber (who was right about that 9b+ for Bernabe Fernandez) and Dani Andrada, said they did not believe Fred.

Today he thinks he is more poet than a sport climber. "I enjoy spending time in contemplate nature, reading books and picking stones. I kept a lot of strength and I can still do 8A without training or tiredness, just happiness! I prefer do small boulder with only one or two hard moves. There are not so many in this style which are more than 8b. La Proue, one move 8B, is incredible. It was a nice opportunity to open Akira and I'm grateful for that."

 
 
James Webb #2 to reach 12 000 points  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLast week, we reported that Daniel Woods became the first boulderer to reach 12 000 points in the 8a scorecard ranking game. Now, with the FA of Primitivo 8C in Valle Bavona, James Webb has gotten 12 040 points, only 3 points below Daniel.

On the other hand, only counting flashes, James is kind of superior with 14 8B flashes. (c) Keenan Takahashi

 
 
9 of the Top-10 from Japan skip Munich  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAccording to the Munich starting list, the Top-4 female and Top-6 male from Japan (but Yoshiyuki Ogata) are not scheduled to compete in Muncih. These nine boulderers have made it to the semi 28 out of 31 times in 2019. (c) Eddie Fowke

In the last event in Wujiang, the four female were all Top-7 and the five male were all Top-7! Shauna Coxey as well as Stasa Gejo are also missing. This means we will see many new faces in the semi and in the finals at the same time this will be the most important WC in 2019, to get a good combined ranking score.

 
 
8c FA by John Henry in Norway  Facebook
 

 
 
Best Climbing Rope - 2019  Facebook
 


 
 
Janja Garnbret (20) best competition track record ever  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret has won the last six WC boulder events she has entered. In Lead, she has missed the podium once in all the 25 WCs she has done since she was 15 years old. In total, she has won 62 % of all Boulder and Lead WCs she has competed in. In the four World CH events she has participated in she has won three gold and one silver. (c) Eddie Fowke from last year winning in Munich.

Interestingly, she has been selective and not done all comps any year. Last year she just did three out of seven Boulder WCs and in 2016 she did not participate in the WCH. During the years we have seen many youngster being very successful being 15 or 16 years old but all most of them stopped competing quite early. Adam Ondra has also been careful selecting comps in the start of his career.

 
 
Buildering in Darmstadt  Facebook
 

 
 
Ondra Road to Tokyo #13 - Wujiang  Facebook
 

 
 
How to bolt with Sasha DiGulian  Facebook
 

 
 
Mandanga Total 9a (8c+) and three 8c+' by Jonathan Siegrist  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Siegrist, who did a 9b in Villanueva del Rosario ten days ago, has at the same crag done Mandanga total 9a (8c+) and another three 8c+' the last week. (c) Javi Pec

"Hard boulder problems and very good rests. Any line that goes to the top of this cliff is automatically 4 stars! Tough to grade, but seems like low 9a for the cliff. 3 tries including the bottom. No knee bars."

J-star is #3 in the 8a ranking game and in total he has now done 43 routes 9a and harder. More info on his Insta. "This last week has been awesome for me, feeling relief that the main objective is over and climbing a muerte on these other 5 star lines. At this point my body and mind are completely blown out, and it’s time for some serious rest."

 
 
France dominated in Graz  Facebook
 

France dominated the European Youth Cup in Graz. In total they got two golds and eight Top-4 positions. The most superior winner was once again Oriane Bertone who did all eight problems in the qualification first try and she was the only one to do all four final boulders.

00: Leo Favot FRA - Camilla Moroni ITA
02: Alberto Gines ESP - Nika Potapova UKR
04: Oriane Bertone FRA - Jim Zeimes LUX
Complete results

 
 
Faus, Webb and Cameroni doing Primitivo 8B & 8C  Facebook
 

 
 
La Padrina 8a+ Cathy Wagner (53)  (12) Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has done La Padrina 8a+ in Capçanes in just three days, "greatly facilitated by the powerful unexpected wind of the evening."

The 53-year-old has done 63 8a's to 8b during the last year and in total, 720 since 1994, out of which 23 % second go.

 
 
The Game 8C by Ryuichi Murai  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRyuichi Murai reports on Insta that he had done The Game in Boulder Canyon which was his tenth 8C.

"I’m so happy to send Daniel’s masterpiece ! It took 2 days to send. First day, this boulder was bad condition due to rain and snow. I could do compression moves of upper part on the day, but bottom part (from start holds to 3rd hold) was so wet, and I couldn’t do.

Second day, this boulder was better condition and I managed to climb it in the evening. When I touched this boulder at the first time, I was certain that I can climb because I’m good at roof climbing and compression moves. So I could do quick ascent though it's a hard problem."
(c) Oda Momo

 
 
Esclatamasters 9a (8c+) by Mathieu Bouyoud  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMathieu Bouyoud, who previoulsy has done 18 9a's and one 9a+ FA, has done Esclatamasters 9a (8c+) in Perles, in just six tries. (c) Henning Wang

"Now I come back in France for working. I hope the weather is good for trying the local project. Short routes in local cliff "Les Rigauds" and another one in "Virignin".

 
 
6.37 by Yoshiyuki Ogata  Facebook
 

Yoshiyuki Ogata, currently #8 in the Boulder WC, has set a new Japanese Speed record at 6.37. A total of five other potential non-Speed specialists did take part in the comp in Tokyo where Tomoa Narasaki was second fastest at 6.75. Complete results

Due to the multiplication format in Tokyo, the person who wins any discipline is almost automatically Top-5. The fastest time ever by a non-Speed specialist is 6.34 by Mickael Mawem and third is Tomoa Narasaki with 6.69.

 
 
8A FA by Gasper Bratina  Facebook
 

 
 
The Big Island 8C by Pascal Gagneux  Facebook
 

 
 
La Rustica 8C by Daniel Woods - first to reach 12 000 = 8C average Top-10  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods confirms upgrading of Jimmy Webbs La Rustica 8C in Valle Bavona on his Insta. "Pure compression wrestling out this perfect overhung river polished feature. The crux move is a savage reach out right to a hard to get into pocket. From here you gotta keep your shit together all the way to the end. I actually fell on the last move a few times." (c) Stefan Kuerzi - Insta

Interesting is that Daniel will be the first boulderer to reach 12 000 points once he has put it in his scorecard. His Top-10 ascents the last 12 months includes two 8C+ and two 8B+ and the rest 8Cs. The 29 year old has been one of the leading climbers in the world the last 12 years and in total he has now done more than 250 boulders 8B and harder. Add to that five 9a+ and one 9b including also winning a Boulder World Cup, the 169 cm tall should be considered one of the best climbers in the history.

 
 
8B+ FAs by Pirmin Bertle  (1) Facebook
 


Walden 8B+/8C and Underclass Poem 8B+ at the Cousimbert, Fribourg (CH) from Pirmin Bertle on Vimeo.

 
 
5c by Marcel Rémy (96) projecting a 6a MP  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMarcel Rémy, born in 1926, has done the first pitch of Les Guêpes in St-Loup which his sons Yves and Claude put upin 1974. The second and finishing pitch is 6a and as he could not do it, it has become his project which he trains for. (c) Claude Remy, who together with his brother Yves have bolted some 15 000 routes.

Two years ago, Marcel did Miroir de l'Argentine, 450 m high, 12 pitches, 5b+. He came down flying a dual-parapente. Video in French.

 
 
Ninja SkillS SDS 8C/+ by Martin Keller (41) after 150 sessions  (2) Facebook
 

Martin Keller has published a a nice passionate blog about his FA of Ninja Skills SDS 8C/+ in Sobrio. It took his some 150 sessions including many during the night.



It should be noted that in 2012, Martin put up Der mit dem Fels tanzt after some 100 sessions. In 2016, he did the FA of Highlander 8C (B+) after 13 years of projecting. Further more, last week Martin did the Story of Two Worlds Low 8C which he used as a training preparation.

 
 
The Outer Limits 8C by Carlo Traversi  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlo Traversi has done the first repeat of Jimmy Webb's
The Outer Limits 8C in Donner summits, in six sessions. "5 star line, great movement. Broke one of the crimps that Jimmy used, so had to adapt the sequence a bit. Maybe the hardest boulder I've climbed?"

Carlo has now done seven 8C's and in the Combined ranking, including having done the second ascents of the trad 8C+ Meltdown, he is #16.

 
 
Vertical-Life’s Underdogs to adidas ROCKSTARS  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureQualify for the top-class bouldering invitational and compete with the best bouldering athletes in the world!

This year, two users of the Vertical-Life app will have the chance to compete at the prestigious adidas ROCKSTARS among the best climbers on the planet – it could be YOU!

Here is how the selection works:
Check if your gym is on Vertical-Life, and if so, mark your climbed boulders in the app and take first in your gym’s bouldering ranking by July 31st. The best climber from each gym will enter into the crowd voting. All Vertical-Life users will be able to vote for their male and female favorites. If you are among the 10 athletes with the most votes, you will enter into the jury stage. An international jury will select one male and one female climber. The winners have the honor of competing in their gym’s name at adidas ROCKSTARS in Stuttgart on September 13th-14th.

The Underdog winners will get an athlete invite to adidas ROCKSTARS and compete with the top athletes of the international bouldering circuit. They'll enjoy the same privileges on site as the invited pros. All travel and accommodation expenses will be covered. There's an additional bonus for all high performing climbers: adidas will reward the 10 crowd favorites with an adidas / Five Ten Underdog Package, while the best climbers of each gym will receive a prize from Vertical-Life.

1. Participate in your home gym’s ranking on Vertical-Life
2. Be among the top 10 athletes in the crowd favorite voting
3. Be chosen by the VL jury and participate at adidas ROCKSTARS

Check out the Underdog Website to find out more about participation and ranking criteria. If your gym is not yet on Vertical-Life, you can send a request to gym@vertical-life.info and encourage your gym’s management to sign up.

 
 
Pachamama 9a+ by Piotr Schab  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab, who just did his first 9b, has done his eight 9a+, Pachamama in Oliana in just eight tries. "Probably the best sequence of moves I've done in past couple of years." (c) Marcin Szymkowski

The Pole is #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra which he has been for almost two straight years.

 
 
Very Woods in Rocklands  Facebook
 

 
 
Bridge of Ashes 8C by Matt Fultz  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatt Fultz, who just got married, is having a great peak being 27 years old. Yesterday he did his second 8C Bridge of Ashes in RMNP, just two weeks after he did his first. In the meantime the late bloomer also did the FA of Kenny Loggins 8B+ in St Vrain, meaning he has done 23 8B+. Including also 67 8B's, he has a solid pyramid for building upwards. In the 8a ranking game, he is #6 but continuing the peak and with an upcoming trip to Switzerland, for the 183 cm powerhouse at 78 kilos, he just might soon be in the Top-3. Videos on his Insta.

 
 
Beautiful pain 8c+ by Ema Seliškar (14)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEma Seliškar, who previoulsy has done five 8b+', has done her first 8c+, Beautiful pain in Kotecnic.

"It was really beautiful and painful - especially after falling from the last move in previous attempt. I tried this rout for the first time I think this was like one month ago and than it took something around 10 sessions to climb it. Now, I just want to climb a lot of 8a's and when we will go to Spain this autumn I also want to try something harder."

 
 
Bouldering understandable, fair, anticlimax, cheating etc  Facebook
 

8a was the only media present during the IFSC Olympic meeting with IOC in Lausanne last month. Here are improvements in regards the Bouldering format and rules suggested by me.

Understandable
1. Digital understandable scoring live updated on the TV-screen so even the non climbers can follow who is in the lead and what is needed to advance.

2. Take out the letters T and z and count and present only points 34 points instead of 3T4z. Ties will be separated by number of tries as already done. ”Welcome to the Bouldering Final. You get 1 point for controlling the zone and another 10 for topping out. The best possible score is 44 points.”

Anticlimax/Fairness/Cheating
1. How to judge ”control” matching the top but swinging out at 3.59 sec? The solution is to say you just need to touch the top before 4 minutes.
2. Appeals must be filed within 10 min and presented on the live screen.
3. How to deal with spectators screaming beta?
4. How to deal with boulderers looking at each other in semi?
5. The conditions deteriorates and with 8 finalists the disadvantage starting first increases. Better brushing after 4 two climbers including standing on stairs with blowing equipment. Change to LED-spotlight so the temperature do not rise.

Format changes after 2020 – This could be tested on Youth
a. Add one more zone = More fair and more excitement
b. Increase to 8 finalists/4 boulders = More countries and more action
c. Save 30 – 40 min: Rotate on 2 first boulders and only Top-6 finish
d. Break before last boulder = Commercial/Coffe break needed in 90 min show
e. Rotate starting order before last boulder = More fair and increased excitement

 
 
La Force 8C (9a or 8Cc+ Trav) by Coudert Camille  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCoudert Camille, who previoulsy has done five 8B's, has done the second repeat of Alban Levier's La Force 8C (9a or 8Cc+) in Fontainebleau which has a harder exit then the more frequently done Quoi de neuf 8C.

"The boulder is 7C+/8A and 8B to 7C finish, with a good rest between 8A and 8B. it is about 35 moves long so it is hard to give the whole line a boulder grade. A 9a route grade has also been suggested but in comparison to existing trav grades 8C+ would fit.

I started working on La Force seriously a month ago. I needed five sessions to take it down. It is my biggest achievement so far in a style I'm not used to work on (a long effort being a boulderer). I think this problem cannot be considered as a route or a boulder. It is something in between that's why I think the 8C+ traverse grading is more appropriate."


(8a agrees with Camille but instead we call such long climbs without a rope, a boulder route and adding 8Cc+, in order to separate from route or boulder grades).

 
 
Halva Power Ext 8c+ by Yann "Diego" Ghesquiers (48)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClimb Greece reports that Yann "Diego" Ghesquiers has done the first repeat of Gerome Pouvreau's Halva Power Ext 8c+ in Kyparissi. (c) Isabelle Bihr

The 48 year old mountain guide, who has previously done four 9a FAs, the last one two years ago, is one of the guys bolting new routes for the upcoming Kyparissi festival. All the hard core routes in Babala has been bolted by Diego, who also works as a helicopter rescuer.

 
 
La Valse aux Adieux 8A+ by Caroline Sinno  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCaroline Sinno, who previously has done three of the hardest traverses in Fontainbleau, has done one more La Valse aux Adieux. "Super short and intense trav (shorter than long boulder problems).
I would grade it 8A+ boulder. Nicest holds ever and one of the prettiest trav here."
(c) Lucien Martinez

In Font, traverses normally get a traverse grade which is in between boulder and route grades. Caroline suggested 8B as the traverse grade in order to respect the history in Font. 8a has previously said that traverse grading might be confusing because it is hard to understand when a climb by definition is a traverse or not. Outside Font, traverse grading is not so often used andbecause of that we always add the estimated boulder grade to the news.

There is an 8C (trav graded ) extension to La Valse aux Adieux. "I am very close in the extension, hopefully I can try again Monday! The 8c trav extension is a bit longer and could be around 8B/+ boulder. Trav grades are confusing and not relevant."

 
 
Ryohei Kameyama in Font  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
Two 8B's by Rei Kawamata (15)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRei Kawamata, who was #5 in the Moscow Bouldering World Cup, has had a great trip to Ena where he did two hard 8B's, Anomally and Ankokumaru.

"It is very nice. There where some 8B+ that seemed possible. I want to return in the end of the year."

Next up for the 15 year old is the Boulder World Cup in Vail in June and the the Youth World Championship in Arco in the end of August.

 
 
Pure Dreaming 9a by Davide Picco  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavide Picco has done his third 9a, Pure Dreaming in Arco in eight sessions.

"Pure dreaming is a rather new line, bolted by Alfredo Webber and freed by Adam Ondra last year. I started trying it two months ago during weekends. The route is a masterpiece of endurance, after 20 meters or so of athletic movements on a steep wall you get to two small crimps where you need to rest and recover for the last section, the hardest one. I guess the style suits me very well even though I didn't expect to redpoint the line this fast. I'm super happy."

 
 
WICS: Indoor industry meeting 19-21/6 in Sofia  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureWICS, World Indoor Climbing Summit, is the first global event in the climbing industry and stands out by gathering a unique international set of climbing industry experts, under one roof. A carefully selected agenda built around the business of running a climbing gym — and the do’s and don’ts of turning it into a profitable venture, from the perspective of various markets — make the event a valuable experience for any climbing gym operator. It unites the pioneers of the industry on a global scale — people who have witnessed and experienced the growth of climbing from the first row and have played a big role in it.

It was interesting to hear the different ways the US market diversifies from Europe and Australia and some other places. And I thought that was unique perspective that I haven’t had before. Having all these gym operators from around the world in one place and having that kind of discussions was really interesting.” Jeffery Bowling, Marketing, IT and Business Development Manager at Touchstone Climbing

 
 
Sharma projecting his hardest route ever  Facebook
 

 
 
Kyparissi Festival 10-12 May with new beach sectors  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClimb Greece reports that two new beach sectors have been opened just in time for the Kyparissi Festival 10-12 of May. In total, 60 new lines have been bolted and Aris T, aka Mr Kalymnos, says that the potential it as least 1 000 more routes in the area.

"If ever there was a dream crag above the beach, Balogeri Gorge is it: cliffs and faces of top-quality limestone unfold through the mountains until they spill out onto a remote beach with small white pebbles and clear blue/green waters."

 
 
8c+ by Moritz Welt (17) in just two sessions  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMoritz Welt had done Markus Bock's Behind the blackest Tears 8c+ in Frankenjura in two sessions. In the Combined ranking, the 17 year old is #2. (c) Lars Decker

"The route was pretty much my style with a 7c lower part and just one hard boulder in the end bouldery on small holds, typical Frankenjura style."

 
 
 
Bombero de la Roca 7a+ in Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
9a+ and 9a FAs by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done two impressive FAs in Camaiore; La Terza Eta 9a which he did in four tries and Naturalmente 9a+.

"One of the best routes I can imagine. Slightly overhanging wall, tiny crimps, undercuts, shitty feet, resistant, bullet-proof rock. Tried for two days three weeks ago, now it went down after checking the moves. Rather high-end 9a+ I would say."

The level is going up in 2017 and Ondra is leading the pack. During four days, the 23 year old has done two 9b's, two 9a+' and two 9a's. It will be interesting to follow the progression during 2017.

 
 
Pau Contreras en Wonder boy (8b) FA, Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
Rescat Emocional (7b+), Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle  (11) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEthan Pringle reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of Black Beards Tears 8c+ at the Promontory protecting the 40 meters by 15 cams and one stopper. For the history books, this is the second 8c+ trad ascent - first was Beth Rodden's Meltown.

- This is definitely one of, if not the coolest and most unique FAs I've ever done in my life! I'd fantasized about how this fabled crack climb might look and feel for weeks before I saw it at the start of the month. When I first laid eyes on it, my jaw hit the floor.

On September 2nd I rapped in and installed an anchor right below the very top of the wall. I knew as soon as I saw the line up close that it was going to have some bad ass climbing on it and it did not disappoint. After 10 days of the usual kind of hard work and of course a fair amount of blood, sweat, a few tears right there at the end, I nabbed the red point.

 
 
Hungry Monkeys in Railay  Facebook
 


Hungry Monkeys from Ironmanfilms on Vimeo.

 
 
Tredje 8a av Olof Morsing (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOlof Morsing, som togs ut till J-landslaget efter att ha kommit #19 på Europacupen i Imst, har gjort sin tredje 8a, Musen i Vikskile och dagen innan gjordes Trettio-åriga kriget 7c+. Tidigare i år så har 14-åringen onsightat sju 7c. Bilden är från Träleberget 2015 av Olof Hedberg.

 
 
Domen Skofic from Slovenia wins in Chamonix  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Skofic won in great style in Chamonix continuing his nice progress trend. As a junior, he was the best in the world and in the last three World Cups the 22-year-old has been improving every year being 9 - 5 - 4. Domen is also the #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Domen Skofic SLO 51
2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 48+
3. Jakob Schubert 48
4. Gauthier Supper FRA 48
5. Roman Desgranges FRA 47
Complete results

 
 
8b av Hannes Puman på Örnberget  Facebook
 

Hannes Puman har gjort Breaking the lwa 8b på Örnberget. "I spöregn och åska. Spännande. Använde inte enfingerspocketen."

För två år sedan blev Hannes juniorvärldsmästare och förra året junioreuropmästare. Första tävlingen på Världscupen i år är Briancon 23-24 juli.

 
 
Mer renoveringsbultning i Stockholm  Facebook
 

Stockholms Klätterförbund rapporterar att man har bultat om och lagt till bultar samt rensat Anneberg som är en av de mest tillgängliga klipporna i Stockholm. Trenden med att lägga till bultar på lätta old-school leder för att göra de mindre farliga fortsätter i hela Sverige.

Säkerhetskommitten har vidare fått i uppdrag att skriva om den nationella bultpolicyn baserat på en motion till förbundsmötet.

 
 
Två 8c i Flatanger och Två 8A (+) i Västervik av Hannes  Facebook
 

Hannes Puman, som precis har tagit körkort, tog först bilen till Västervik och satte två 8A (+), So I Fly och Animal Act. Sen bar det iväg till Flatanger där två 8c gjordes, Muy Verdes och The Valkyrie.

Nästa resa sker med flyg till Warsawa för att tävla på Europacupen i Bouldering till helgen. Man kan tycka att köra 30 meters takturer inte är bästa förberedelserna för en bouldertävling men Lead är fokuset för J-Världsmästaren även i år.

 
 
9a+ FA in Flatanger and two 8b+ (c) onsights  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is back in Flatanger where he has made yet another great FA, 120 degrees 9a+. "Absolutely crazy inverted roof boulderproblem after having done the first part of Elden Inuti."

In fact, Flatanger is the crag in the world with most hard routes and Adam has been one of the pioneers having put up six routes in between 9a+ and 9b+. During the last week, Adam has also onsighted two 8b+' and one 8a+ and that is measured by his personal grades. (c) Erik Massih - It never gets darker than this during the summer nights in Flatanger.

 
 
8b onsight av Erik Grandelius i Norge  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureErik Grandelius har onsightat Slettakraft extension 8b i Slettafossen vilket är en, "Link-up of 7c into 8a+." Sista månaden har han även onsightat ytterligare tre 8a i Norge. (c) Paula Voldner

- Var i romsdalen för att göra lätta fjällturer men han få in lite sport på vilodagarna :) Vi klättrade bland annat Romsdalshorn 5+, (c) Paula Voldner, och Mongjura 25 replängder 6+. Nu är jag i Flatanger med ambition att göra Brunnhilde 8c.

 
 
Fem 7c onsight av Olof Morsing (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOlof Morsing är nu uppe i fem 7c onsight på Kalymnos inklusive den ansett hårda Aegialis. Förra året så var perset fem 7a+ och en 7b+ onsight så utveck- lingen går mycket snabbt 14- åringen.

 
 
8b+ av Kristoffer Lindbäck i Niemisel  (3) Facebook
 

Kristoffer Lindbäck har gjort sin första 8b+, När Lammen Tystnar i Niemisel. Tidigare i vintras kom han #4 på SM i Lead och det var hans första leadtävling. Supertalangen som numera tränas av förbundskaptenen har bara klättrat i fem år då han slutade fotbollsgymnasiet.

 
 
Två 7c onsight av Olof Morsing (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOlof Morsing, som precis har tagits ut till J-landslaget efter att ha kommit #18 i Europacupen i Imst, har onsightat Hogo Fogo och Neolitic Line på Kalymnos. Sammanlagt har 14-åringen onsightat fyra 7c i vår så vi pratar ny svensk talang med grym utvecklingskurva.

 
 
Ungdomsläger i Lysekil nästa helg  Facebook
 

Lysekils KK bjuder in till Ungdomsläger nästa helg med start på lördag kl 10.00 vid Trellebystrands Camping. Man vänder sig till 9 till 13 åringar som klättrar dock krävs ingen utomhuserfarenhet. Kostnaden är 0 kr men man måste vara medlem i Lysekils KK som kostar 130 kr. Ledarna är bland annat två erfarna 16-åriga tjejer.

 
 
Close to 6 000 crags in the database  Facebook
 

In total, there are close to 4 million ascents in the 8a database and there is a Tick List available for almost 6 000 crags. You can add more crags to the database in a link at the top where you add routes and boulders.

The crag with most ascents is Fontainebleau with 104 000, followed by Kalymnos with 98 000.

 
 
Jon Cardwell has done Biographie 9a+: Interview!  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJon Cardwell, who did his first 9a in 2008, has done his long-term project, Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. It was bolted in 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Chris Sharma made the FA in 2001. Biographie has seen 13 ascents to date, which makes it the most repeated 9a+ in the world. (c) Carlo Traversi

Check out Jon's comments for his nicest journey that took ten years and included 75 tries.

- Climbing means so many different things to me. It's an outlet for self expression, a vehicle to travel the worth with and experience incredible places. It's also a wise teacher that holds you accountable for every action from your footprint at fragile crags to your preparation for meaningful climbs. More than anything, it's just fun!"

 
 
Mycket lyckat J-SM på Klätterdomen  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDet rapporteras om ett mycket välorganiserat och uppskattat J-SM på perfekt utslagsgivande leder i både kval och final, arrangerat av Kvibergs KK, Kolla videos. Barnen som topprepstävlade och fick prova olika grenar inom klättersporten njöt i fulla muggar.

97: Fredrik Serlachius
99: Nea Herforth & Ymer Alber, se bild
01: Olof Morsing & Ella Kallas
03: Sofie Asterling & Dennis Yakubenko
05: Linda Asterling & Simon Borgh

Kvibergs KK tog tre guld och bland pojkar 01 var fyra av de fem bästa från arrangörsklubben. I de två yngsta tjejklasserna var de fyra bästa från hemmaklubben. Det enda tråkiga på J-SM var det låga deltagarantalet och var sammanlagt bara två i de äldsta klasserna. Vidare sammanlagt bara sju i de tre äldsta tjejklasserna. Största klasserna var i barnklasserna med deltagare från fem år.

 
 
Megos lovordar Västervik igen  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos som numera delvis är bosatt i Stockholm har återigen besökt Västervik som han lovordar på Facebook.

"Back again in ‪#‎västervik‬ after the first trip 3 weeks ago. This place keeps surprising me! Went to a @nk_ceria problem called "Primitiv" 8A+ and probably got the first repeat(?!) as well as a flash of "Pro2" 8A and Golden Path Low" 8A/+ and a send of "Animal Act" 8A+."

Med tanke på att flera ledande bouldrare har ifrågasatt dagens grader i Västervik kan man notera att Megos under sina två resor till Västervik har bekräftat alla grader.

 
 
8C after driving 7 000 km by Tamás Zupán  (17) Facebook
 

Tamás Zupán has set a new record of dedication by doing his second 8C, Zunami in Saalachtal, driving 7 000 kilometers to reach his goal.

- I was there with my friend in the middle of March and I climbed some boulders in the lower sector and I tried Gizmo 8B, which is a variant of Zunami. I live 600 km far from Saalachtal and I could travel there only on Wednesdays because of my work. I woke up at 4:30 a.m., started my journey from home at 5 a.m. and I came in Saalachtal at 11 a.m. I climbed until 2 p.m. and I arrived at 8 p.m. I climbed ’Gizmo’ on the second trip and finally I could manage ’Zunami’ on my 6th trip.

The first move is incredible complex because in the same time you should move separately your all limbs when make the crossing movement, after it is really crimpy, overhanging and that’s why I really liked it.

 
 
Fucking far from OK 8a+ av Max Boholm  (2) Facebook
 

Max Boholm, gammal juniorlandslagsman, kan sägas vara något av en late bloomer och verkar 20 år senare som 34-åring vara i sitt livs form. Idag gjordes Fucking far from OK, 8a+ i Vikskile. Hemligheten var uppvärmning på greppbräda i 20 minuter vid halv nio på morgonen. En annan förklaring till sista halvårets peak kan vara salvan han sätter på fingertopparna - Antihydral.

Väl uppe i Vikskile så klättrades en 10 meter 6b, lammet och därefter sändes leden som Yuji Hirayama satte upp i mitten på 90-talet. Därefter testade Max Hingsten 8a+ och den bör gå snabbt.

 
 
Årets äventyrare intervjuad  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFreedom travel har intervjuat Said Belhaj i samband till att han blev utsedd till årets klättrare. Bild Terje Aamodt.

- Jag är född -81 i Mölndal utanför Göteborg. Min far är från Marocko och min mor från Finland och jag talar 6 språk flytande. Jag har klättrat i 25 år, varav 15 professionellt. Jag har också spelat musik i hela mitt liv, numer med fokus på musik från Nord- och Västafrika, och spelar med olika musiker och artister runt hela världen. Dessutom är jag fotograf.

Jag började klättra i berg i början av 90-talet för att jag älskade klättring. Jag visste inte vad bergsklättring var, kände inga klättrare, det fanns knappt någon info på den tiden osv men en näst intill besatt passion har lett mig till var jag är idag.

 
 
7C av Anja Hodann (38)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnja Hodann har gjort Tjing Tjong 7C i Orminge. Tidigare har hon gjort tre 8A och den sista 2012. 2006 var Anja #8 på Världscupen efter att en gång stått på prispallen. Sammanlagt gör detta Anja till den mest framgångsrika svenska bouldrare. Här tävlar hon på Ninja Warriors.

 
 
En av de bästa boulderdagarna någonsin för Megos i Västervik  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture"What a day!!! ‪#‎västervikclimbing‬ at it's finest! Got the classics-tour with @slacker12 and managed to flash "Dillerium" 8A and "David and Goliath" 8A+ and got the first repeat of "Mechanical Bull" 8B. As well on the tick lost today were "Go all day sit" 8A, "D+P Combo" 8B, "Namaste" 8A+, "By the Book" 8A+ and "Celtic Warrior" 8A. So I had one of my best bouldering days ever!!! Psyched for more tomorrow!" (c) Daniela Ebler

 
 
8a+ av Johan Luhr (54)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJohan Luhr satte upp Stairway to Heaven på Örnberget 1996 vilket då som 8a+ var en av de svåraste lederna i Sverige. Igår gjorde han den igen som 54-åring. Målet med säsongen är att göra minst en 8b+.

"Känns mer som 8b när steget på läppen försvunnit ! 2 snäpp svårare än I´ll be back."

 
 
Megos lovordar Västervik  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture"BLOWN AWAY from Swedish bouldering! Went to #västervik today and got shown around by the guidebook authors @slacker12 and Jim Wasmuth. Climbed the classics "The Hourglass" 8B and "The Office" 8A this afternoon. Picture is from the combination "Night Shift" 8A+. Can't wait to go out again tomorrow!!!" (c) Daniela Ebler

 
 
8b igen av Stefan Wulf (45)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefan Wulf är på en tre veckors trip till Siurana som har startat bra med en 8b, Tres Tristes Triceps.

- Planen var att testa en 8c. Men det blev istället en led som jag spanat in på en tidigare resa. Ca 40m lång med ett för min del extremt hårt bouldercrux i mitten. Trodde den skulle gå ner fortare men fick kämpa 4 dagar för att ta mig förbi sista cruxflyttet. Nu bara några dagar kvar på resan med att beta av några st fina 8a'n

 
 
7C av Daniela Ebler  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniela Ebler berättar om sin första 7C på Instagram,

"Sunes Sommar Assis, 7c.
Checked this problem out about 2-3 years ago, came back yesterday and wanted to give the stand start a go. Did it first try, so decided to try the sit start. And what do you know, that also worked on the first go! My first 7c!

 
 
8b onsight by Laura Rogora (14) and one more today  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora, who just did her first 9a, has onsighted Batuka 8b in Margalef and she put up all the draws by herself. Batuka has been recorded 57 times in the data base, all with 8b and only two guys have onsighted it before.

- The route is divided in two sections with a very good rest in the middle. The first four bolt are hard and I thought to fall every move. The second part is easier but there is another hard move. Today was the first day of the trip. In this week I would like to visit new crags: Santa Linya, Rodellar...

Today the 14-year-old onsighted Codigo Norte, an 8b in Santa Linya. "I'm staying here just for one week so I think I will climb only onsight."

 
 
Bouldervärldscupen startar utan svenskar  (2) Facebook
 

Boulderväldscupen startar till helgen i Schweiz och på anmälningslistan finns det 142 deltagare från 30 länder men inga svenskar. Förbundskaptenen Reino Horak förklarar att visst intresse finns men det är svårt för de aktiva då det inte finns några nationella svenska tävlingar att träna på.

Om två veckor avgörs NM i Bouldering i Danmark, dit ett dussintal svenskar inkl juniorer har anmält intresse. Förhoppningsvis får vi svenska framgångar och några som blir peppade på att tävla internationellt. Annars är dock planen att ett par juniorer ska pröva lyckan på en Bouldervärldscup i sommar säger Horak.

 
 
8a av Olof Morsing och Marcus Gillberg  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOlof Morsing har varit på Kvibergs KK årliga vårresa till Margalef och passade på att göra sina första två 8a; Dr Feelgood and Transilvania. Vidare sattes de två första 7c onsighten så den hårda vinterträningen har burit frukt. Första tävlingen går på lördag i Eskilstuna och sen i maj så blir det först J-SM och sedan Europacupen i Imst. På bilden även Marcus Gillberg som även han fick ihop en 8a och både tillhör J-landslagets träningsgrupp. Olof komenterar.

- Transilvania jobbade vi på en eftermiddag sen sände jag och Marcus den på morgonen dagen efter. Dr Feelgood hängde jag igenom två gånger sen klättrade jag den. Leden passade nog mig väldigt bra. Målet I år är främst att det ska gå bra i Europa cupen, men det skall nog hinnas klättras ute en del i sommar också.

 
 
Anak Verhoeven (19) makes the FA of Ma belle ma muse 9a  (1) Facebook
 

Anak Verhoeven, who was #4 in the Lead World Cup last year, has done her second 9a, the FA of Me belle ma muse in Romeyer.



Just later, it was repeated by Jean-Elie Crestin-Billet and here is his video. Jean-Elie actually called it an 8c+/9a.

 
 
Kajsa Rosén (18) - A new star in the making  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKajsa Rosén, who did her first 8c and flashed an 8b+ last week, has done Mind Control 8c (+) and onsighted T-1 Full Equipe in Oliana. There is only a handful of female who have onsighted at this level before. "What to do next? Still suprising myself here in Oliana."

Last year, the 18-year-old was #9 and #10 in the last two Lead World Cups she did.

Loic Timmermans, who is still ahead of Kajsa with one 9a, reachead out to 8a with a nice reflection.

"Kasja is crushing all the routes she's trying like nothing. I was even more impressed when she told me she did Mind control without getting pumped. I think she has a good attitude to. Not taking things too seriously, just climbing and see what happens.

 
 
Two 8c (+) OS and a 9a+/b by Adam Ondra  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has had a great weekend. First he did the FA of Vicious Circle 9a+/b in Osp/Misja Pec, which he bolted last year. (c) Luka Fonda

"Left start into Sanski par. Bouldery and short 8c+ into the most of the Sanski par 9a (without first six moves). I would say two 8c+'s with a bad rest in between. Super powerful and resistant climbing.

The next stop was Medveja, a new secret zone in Croatia. It was one of the best days of climbing ever as I onsighted two 8c's ('The Core' is considered 8c+ by those few, who repeated the route) and the first ascent of 'More', 9a. World record maybe? Haha.

Most of the routes are slightly overhanging, crimpy on super solid rock with a minimum of Sika and in general fitting my style pretty well.

The last day I tried a project in Pandora, a different zone in Istria, which is definitely pretty hard in the region of 9b or more. Something like 20m of bouldering in the roof. Definitely a lot of rock around there worth returning for."

 
 
8B (+) flash by James Webb again  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has traveled to Finland to take part in Sisu Masters with an amazing line up including Daniel Woods and Dave Graham but also to try Nalle Hukkataival's Boulders. First they had to crush some ice on the top of the Globalist in Sipoo and then James just flashed it and gave it a personal grade of 8B. The best flash boulderer in the world has now flashed 13 8B Boulders, four out of which were originally graded 8B+. (c) Nico Backström

"Absolutely incredible boulder from Nalle that I've wanted to climb on for so long. Perfect rock, amazing movement. One of the best!"

Next up could be Hukkataival's famous Sisu or Lappnor Project that the Fin has been trying for six respectively four years speculating that it could become the next level.

 
 
8b+ flash and a 8c by Kajsa Rosén (18)  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSimon Carter, a professional climbing photographer for 25 years, reports on Facebook:

"I've seen a lot of really impressive climbing over all the time I've spent at Oliana over the years... and add to that today's jaw-dropping sends by 18 year-old Swedish climber Kajsa Rosen. First up she hiked Fisheye (8c) first shot (after only working it twice yesterday), for her first of the grade, and THEN casually flashed Los Humildes pa Casa (8b+) soon after (pictured). Kajsa Rosen; a name to watch out for for sure!"

Simon is spot-on as the young Swede has had an extreme development over the last few years. In the past year, she was #9 and #10 in the last two Lead World Cups she did.

So how much beta did you get and do you still plan to get yourself a station wagon and hit the road?
I saw a french guy climbing it and he told me about a knee bar. I heard some screaming from below but it was very windy. My plan is to do some comps and some rock climbing and have fun. I graduate this year so hopefully I will have some more time for climbing.

 
 
Erik Grandelius gör 12 boulders 8A och hårdare  Facebook
 

Erik Grandelius har varit på roadtrip i en månad med Benjamin "Tumle" Linne Ryn och gjort 12 boulders 8A och hårdare inklusive Amber i Brione som han gav en personlig grad på 8A+. Dessutom flashade han Kirk Windstein i Cresciano som han graderade till 8A.

"Det flesta problemen gick ner rätt snabbt. Jag har inte kunnat bouldra ordentligt senaste två åren pga en fingerskada, men nu är det bra. Vi hade även ca 1 meter snö när vi kom till Brione, så vi klättrade på det som var torrt. Det var även kul att göra c'etait demain i fontan, världens första 8A, video.

Alltid kul att klättra med Tumle, vi är på samma nivå men har olika styrkor och svagheter. Tumle flashade Cellar Door 8A.

 
 
8C by Ashima Shiraishi (14)  (21) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureReel Rock Film Tour comes with the amazing news that Ashima Shiraishi has made the first repeat of Dai Koyamada's spectacular Horizon 8C, in Hiei, Japan. The 14-year-old worked on the 30 move long roof problem in December and now she has done it on her third day, which means she is the first female and the youngest climber ever to have reached 8C. Here you can find Dai's comment on his FA including a picture where you see that it is almost a horizontal roof.

- "No doubt the Super Project was the hardest problem I’'ve ever done and that probably means it’s a V16 (8C+). However, I’'m not quite sure because I don’t have enough references to compare with. I would be able to fully understand what V15 (8C) is like exactly if I did more than fifty or so of them, but my accomplishments don’t even come close to that."

Based on Ashima's Route and Boulder ticklist, she has been the world's best female rock climber since she was 12 years old. Among the male, she is currently in the Top-20 including also having done two 9a's last autumn. How many 14-year-old girls are able to compete with the best male in any sport? (c) Brett Lowell

 
 
Janvid och Duncan vinner 100 %  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture100 % på Klätterverket samlade 50 deltagare och här är prispallen. På bilden Björn Alber.

1. Vincent Janvid - Freja Duncan
2. Per Holm - Eugenia Bolander
3. Viktor Elofsson - Linda Hammarström
Kompletta resultat

 
 
8C by Ryuichi Murai incl amazing 240 spin  (3) Facebook
 

Ryuichi Murai , who two weeks ago did two 8B+, has done Dai Koyamada's Babel 8C in Shiobara. "This problem links Catharsis(8B+) to Hydra(8B) via Uma(8B+). About 30 moves that include various moves made me enjoy myself."

Totally amazing! Watch that mind-boggling sequence where the 167 cm tall spins 240 degrees with his foot. How is it even possible to find such solution :)

 
 
8a (7c+) onsight av Axel Hultqvist  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAxel Hultqvist är på klättersemester på Sardinen och har onsightat Wonderland i Isili som han ger en personlig 7c+ grad. (c) Johan Ragnarsson

"Isili var ett riktigt grymt ställe, bra klättring och bra mat men inte mycket mer. Fick tre klätterdagar där och nu har vi kommit till Cala gonone. Isili är ett resmål jag definitivt kommer komma tillbaka till överhängande klättring på bra grepp, lite inomhuskänsla. Krävs att man har kört några laps på kedväggarna innan man åker hit.

Onsightpresset gick bra men blev sjukt pumpad, sista presset för dagen. Hade åkt av en 7c+ onsight på förmiddagen på grund av lite fuktigt grepp från regnet under natten och sedan hade jag kört lite andra leder innan vi gick tillbaka och jag fick slita mig upp för leden.

 
 
Stella och Axel vinner #2 GBG Bouldercup  Facebook
 

Stella Plantin och Axel Hulqvist vann den andra deltävlingen i Göteborgs Bouldercup som avgjordes i lördags på Klätterlabbet. Magnus Högström onsightade även han alla problem med blev placerad två pga sämre kvalresultat. Sista deltävlingen på Klätterdomen går den 18 mars och sedan gör de 8 bästa i varje klass gör upp i finalen på Klätterfabriken den 8 april. Kompletta resultat

 
 
Laura Rogora (14) does her first 9a  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora has become the first Italian female to do a 9a by Grandi Gesti in Sperlonga, which is a 20 meter long roof link up. Last year the 14-year-old won both Lead and Boulder Italian Championships and to make the story even more amazing, she mainly just trains in a Bouldering gym. She is #1 in the 8a ranking game. (c) Stefano Michelin/UP-Climbing

- It took me about 15-20 tries in one month and half. I went to Sperlonga seven times. I didn't do a specific training for this route because my purpose is training for competition. Now I need going to train hard for competition especially for the world youth championship in China in November. Surely I will continue to climb on the rock. I planned a trip to Spain in April I think I will climb on sight.

 
 
Träning, Tävling och Sabbatsår för Hannes  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHannes Puman (18), Sveriges bäste manlige tävlingsklättrare de sista åren, kommenterar sin sista 8A+, Optimal på Graveyard-blocken alldeles utanför Eskilstuna.

Berätta lite om din nya 8A+ FA. Får du ens köra så hårt enligt Nickis träningsprogram och hur lång tid tog det och vad är det för område?

- Jag kör grundträning, men i den så är det mycket styrka så det känns ganska bra att bouldra. Jag var där 3 gånger och körde men första gången så borstade jag typ bara. Det tar ungefär 10 min att åka från stan och det finns relativt många block där, annars brukar det bara vara några enstaka block här och där runt Eskilstuna.

Vad har du för planer 2016?
Tar studenten i år så första halvåret blir det hård träning och tävling...sen hoppas jag främst på att bara resa runt och klättra i ett år :)

 
 
Mowgli repeats his 8B+ (C) twice after just a short warm up  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCharles Albert, who did the FA of the L'Alchimiste left exit last week, considered to be harder than the 8C right exit, did it today twice. (c) Neil Hart did get it on video both times.

"He is so strong he made it look like a 6A. I picked him up at one o'clock and we did a very quick 7B that took two tries and we drove to the L'alchimiste. He just pulled on and fell three times on the crux then sent it, then climbed it again so we could get another angle.

It is easier for him bare foot because he can hook his toes into the side pulls better. Definitely a new level!"

 
 
Women are catching up in the Santa Linya caves  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSome ten years ago, several men - notably Dani Andrada, Patxi Usobiaga and Chris Sharma - broke through to the next grading level establishing several 9a's and 9a+'s in Santa Linya. As of 2016, however, it seems that progress has become stagnant with Chris Sharma's two 9b FAs representing the highest attainable level.

Women, in the mean time, have caught up, in 2010 Angela Eiter did the first female 8c in Santa Linya. Quickly thereafter other women have followed suit with ten other females having completed climbs ranging from 8c to 9a(+) over the last two years. Complete stats. In this great picture captured by Luka Fonda, Janja Garnbret (16) flashes La Fabelita 8c.

If the trend continues, it is only a matter of time before women are on par with men in Santa Linya. While impossible to know for certain, one of the reasons behind such phenomenal progress for women may lie in the nature of the climbing in the cave where technical skill and endurance are of vital importance. That, and the fact that these ten women - and the many who will follow - are testaments of climbing strength and power.

 
 
Charles Albert interview  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic Climbing has made an interview with Charles Albert, who did an 8C yesterday, giving it a personal grade of 8B+. The interesting fact is that the 18-year-old seldom trains indoor and the only training he does beside Bouldering is stretching. (c) Neil Hart

"Yesterday I was climbing alone without pads and luckily I met Kevin Thibaut and Mounir (strong but low profile Font locals) who were trying it. I joined them and I managed to send it on my first real session trying the left version. Regarding the grade, I would say for me it’s not harder than “Gecko assis”, the 8B+ I did barefoot last year… I also tried the sit start of “Alchimiste” which adds an easy but beautiful move but doesn’t change the difficulty. I have not done the sit-start version but will come back and try sending the whole thing because it makes the line even more beautiful !"

 
 
"A 14-year-old girl redefines rock climbing"  (6) Facebook
 

BBC has made an interview with Ashima Shiraishi, where, among other things, she says her goal is to break records held by her male counterparts. The 14-year-old claims to be the only female to have done a 9a+ (Direct open your mind R1 in Santa Linya) and the youngest person to have reached that grade.

It should be noticed that the route was originally a 9a until some holds broke and it was speculated that it might be a 9a+. Later Edu Marin repeated it saying it is still a 9a. The first woman to claim having done a 9a+ route was Josune Bereziartu (route: Bimbaluna), which has been subject of being downgraded.

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