| |
| 9b |
| 10/03/13 |
 |
Golpe de Estado |
 |
Siurana / El pati |
|
HUGE relief for me, mission accomplished despite various obstacles - notoriously strong wind, injury, flu and stomach ache just before the second trip (thus I was out of shape). After first day in the route I did not expect I would have to dedicate so much time, but proved to be really hard and mischevious. 29 tries (mental torture for me!) during 14 days, but some days only go when I found out it is just too windy to climb at 6th bolt. I do not say it is hard 9b after breaking the hold, but 100% it is 9b now (a bit harder than Marina). |
*** |
| |
| 9a+ |
| 10/04/06 |
 |
*Goldrake |
 |
CORNALBA / East |
FA |
Poorly/Mainly chipped incredible fight! 5th go, an old project on the right of Jedi, unfortunately two chipped holds on the start, but sick route! I am absolutely not sure about the grade, it is notorious dilema - 9a or 9a+. Just the same as so many other routes. But I decided to go for 9a+ with this one since it is pretty much my style and the send was really incredible fight |
*** |
| 09/10/20 |
 |
Marina Superstar |
 |
Domusnovas / Bronx |
Hard, FA |
So happy to have some really hard FA! Well, I am not sure about the grade. Definately my hardest yet, but probably not 9b, thus I go for 9a+/b. I have to try more routes from Chris to compare. Beautiful line 35m line in very steep cave. It took me 4 days this year and 3 goes last year. Thanks to Matteo Marinini for bolting and to whole Cagliari! |
*** |
| |
| 9a |
| 10/08/07 |
 |
Push Up |
 |
Verdon / Les Galetas |
Soft, FA |
The line of the cave, though the climbing is not as nice as Pull Over. Not sure about the grade, probably harder than Pull Over, but maybe I am wrong because I did in the end of the day |
*** |
| 10/08/03 |
 |
Shortcut |
 |
La Balme |
Soft, Second GO |
absolutely unsure about the grade, first part felt more like 8c+, then the whole route must be 9a. If it is only 8c,then it is not more than 8c+. |
*** |
| 10/05/03 |
 |
Northern Lights |
 |
Kilnsey |
|
great power endurance testpiece |
*** |
| 10/05/02 |
 |
North Star |
 |
Kilnsey |
|
4th go, normal 9a for tall peoplel, harder for short ones |
*** |
| 10/03/30 |
 |
Tanec kuřátek |
 |
Jáchymka, Mor.kras |
FA |
crazyy! narrow but long cave with tricky moves. After bouldery start, pumpy climbing follows difficult chimney where only your calfs are getting pumped, test of my new drill successful :-) |
*** |
| 10/03/04 |
 |
A Muerte |
 |
Siurana / Can Pigui pugui |
Soft |
3 tries 2010,2 2008, easy 9a, but harder that 8c+ |
** |
| 10/01/31 |
 |
Fabela pa la Enmienda |
 |
Santa Linya |
|
1 go, big fight in the end of the day with wet holds and bad memory fro two years ago in Enmienda |
*** |
| 10/01/02 |
 |
A present for the future |
 |
Madonna della rota / Grotta |
Hard, FA |
possible 9a+, 4 days in total with all brushing and figuring out the moves with not allways dry conditions, thanks to crew and to Ivan for bolting especially |
*** |
| 09/11/16 |
 |
Xaxid hostel |
 |
Misja pec |
Hard |
3 goes (+ 3 goes in Ekstaza 2 years ago), definately the hardest in Misja pec, I would go rather for hard 9a than 9a+, climbed in terrible humidity |
** |
| 09/10/30 |
 |
Life's Blood for Downtroddem |
 |
Frankenjura / Vergessene Welt |
|
2 days, strange and hard to figure out, but very cool route |
*** |
| 09/10/28 |
 |
The Essential |
 |
Frankenjura / Luisenwand |
|
3 days, on the top climbed directly without right crack from Kaum Zeit zum atmen |
*** |
| 09/10/10 |
 |
Pantera |
 |
Frankenjura / Schneiderlch |
|
4 days, two falls from last hard move |
*** |
| 09/09/30 |
 |
Im Reich des Shogun |
 |
Basler jura / Tüfleten |
|
2nd ascent after Eric Talmadge (props to him), 2 days, 5 tries, amazing structure of rock |
*** |
| 09/09/27 |
 |
Aloha |
 |
Kronthal |
|
2 days, akward roof climbing, the hardest route on sandstone? |
** |
| 09/09/20 |
 |
Fugu |
 |
Schleier Wasserfall / Aquarium |
Hard |
what a fight! So unusually hot for September, but in the it got bit colder luckily,Alex's project from 1998, 6 goes, the right exit of Orca |
*** |
| 09/09/12 |
 |
Der Heilige Gral |
 |
Frankenjura / Kolosseum |
Soft |
Magical! Has not been dry since 2005! Maybe easy 9a, but way harder than most of other 8c+ in fj |
*** |
| |
| 8c+ |
| 10/08/10 |
 |
? |
 |
Céüse / Biographie |
Hard, FA |
Dave's project to the left of No Future, just after falling in great onsight try in No Future from the last hard move, this one is 8c+ for people of my height, the shorter the harder |
*** |
| 10/08/07 |
 |
Pull Over |
 |
Verdon / Les Galetas |
Second GO |
monster 50meters long roof |
*** |
| 10/08/06 |
 |
Les grands daltons |
 |
Secret spot |
Hard, Second GO |
|
*** |
| 10/08/06 |
 |
? |
 |
Secret spot |
FA, Second GO |
burly climbing on tufas |
*** |
| 10/07/22 |
 |
Keep it movin' even if the world stops |
 |
Zillertal / Schwarze wand |
Second GO |
did quite easily, but it is pretty much my style, maybe only 8c+, but superb route |
*** |
| 10/07/22 |
 |
The Source |
 |
Zillertal / Schwarze wand |
Soft, Second GO |
2nd ascent after Gerhard |
|
| 10/07/14 |
 |
SS26 |
 |
Gressoney |
|
2nd go this year, 2 years ago tried the first pitch |
*** |
| 10/04/03 |
 |
Sikaku |
 |
Cimbergo |
FA |
tricky, morphological, hard to gradei |
*** |
| 10/01/02 |
 |
Urku |
 |
Madonna della rota / Grotta |
FA, Second GO |
terrible cold in the end of the day, 15 meters of the roof plus crimpy crux on the edge |
*** |
| 09/10/24 |
 |
The voice |
 |
Domusnovas / Ruota del Tempo |
FA |
fine boulder, good piece of rock |
*** |
| 09/10/23 |
 |
Death Row |
 |
Domusnovas / Bronx |
FA |
bouldery and super sharp |
* |
| 09/10/11 |
 |
Kawaschuwu |
 |
Frankenjura / Gruene Hoehle |
|
3.go,solid |
|
| 09/09/07 |
 |
Bakufu |
 |
Karlstein |
|
project from Alex, right start of Shogun with awesome moves on pockets and then slopery crux of Shogun on the top. 2nd go + 3 goes in Shogun back in June |
*** |
| |
| 8c |
| 10/08/10 |
 |
Dures Limites |
 |
Céüse / Demi Lune |
|
|
*** |
| 10/08/05 |
 |
*Smoke |
 |
Pierrot beach |
|
Poorly/Mainly chipped |
*** |
| 10/08/05 |
 |
*Home Sweet Home |
 |
Pierrot beach |
|
Poorly/Mainly chipped normal 8c for me |
* |
| 10/08/05 |
 |
Fatal Mambo |
 |
Pierrot beach |
Hard, Second GO |
|
** |
| 10/07/24 |
 |
Fliag decht o |
 |
Zillertal / Bachhexe |
|
Log-book, No score 8c/c+, boulder traverse and finish in 8b, did twice, cause it was raining |
** |
| 10/01/29 |
 |
Guèrre D'usure |
 |
Claret |
|
probably easy 8c, but very tricky to onsight |
*** |
| 10/01/29 |
 |
Super Samson |
 |
Claret |
|
possibly harder than Guère d'usure, but easier to onsight |
*** |
| 09/10/11 |
 |
Frontline |
 |
Frankenjura / Neudorf |
Second GO |
|
** |
| 09/10/04 |
 |
Watzmann ruft |
 |
Geisterschmiedwand |
|
2nd ascent, really tricky |
*** |
| 09/10/03 |
 |
*? |
 |
Kalkofen |
Second GO |
Poorly/Mainly chipped 8c/c+ |
*** |
| 09/10/03 |
 |
*? |
 |
Kalkofen |
|
wow, world class route! |
*** |
| |
| 8b+ |
| 10/08/05 |
 |
*Hérésistance |
 |
Pierrot beach |
|
Poorly/Mainly chipped 8b+/c |
** |
| 10/08/02 |
 |
I am Sorry Mickey |
 |
La Balme |
Soft |
|
*** |
| 10/07/25 |
 |
Coque au vin |
 |
Zillertal / Bergstation |
Soft |
|
*** |
| 10/07/24 |
 |
*Total Brutal |
 |
Zillertal |
|
Poorly/Mainly chipped saw video 2 years ago, but didn't remember anything, did it twice |
* |
| 10/07/19 |
 |
? |
 |
Laste / sud |
|
amazing line |
*** |
| 10/07/19 |
 |
? |
 |
Laste / north |
|
8b/b+, but really hard to onsight because of no chalk, 2nd pitch, right route |
*** |
| 10/04/18 |
 |
Skaterboy |
 |
Labské Údolí / Toreador |
Second GO |
specific, friction and skin dependant, both was bad... |
** |
| 10/03/06 |
 |
*A dos bandas |
 |
Siurana / La Capella |
Second GO |
Poorly/Mainly chipped dangerous if you do not preclip the 2nd bolte as me, but it is cheating otherwise |
** |
| 10/03/01 |
 |
Migranya profunda |
 |
Siurana / L'Olla |
|
the higher part onsight, had known the lower one |
*** |
| 10/01/29 |
 |
Elzevir |
 |
Claret |
|
The end of the day, dream day and also the only good day of the trip... grr... |
*** |
| 09/12/27 |
 |
Azzuro |
 |
Predore |
FA |
crimpfest, surprisingly good climbing |
*** |
| 09/11/08 |
 |
King Line |
 |
Labské údolí / Růžová věž |
Second GO |
beautiful line on arete, 2nd ascent |
*** |
| 09/11/08 |
 |
Z Pekla štěstí |
 |
Labské údolí / Růžová věž |
FA, Second GO |
|
*** |
| 09/10/10 |
 |
Small Talk |
 |
Frankenjura / Barenschlucht |
Hard |
|
*** |
| 09/10/03 |
 |
*? |
 |
Kalkofen |
|
amazing! |
*** |
| 09/10/03 |
 |
*? |
 |
Kalkofen |
|
Poorly/Mainly chipped |
** |
| 09/09/30 |
 |
L'Amour direkt |
 |
Basler jura / Falkenfluh |
|
for me a bit easier than La Belle vie (8b) |
*** |
| 09/09/28 |
 |
Ravage |
 |
Basler jura / Chuenisberg |
Hard |
first 8b+/c on the world, bolted and second ascent by Czech (V.Vodicka) |
*** |
| 09/09/20 |
 |
Wassermusik |
 |
Schleier Wasserfall / Haupt |
|
basically on sight, but I had climbed Sempre Secco last year |
*** |
| 09/09/16 |
 |
Jen pro stare bojovniky |
 |
Moravský kras / Lidomorna |
FA |
good new line |
*** |
| |
| 8b |
| 10/08/03 |
 |
*Big Bang |
 |
La Balme |
|
Poorly/Mainly chipped tired |
** |
| 10/08/02 |
 |
*La Voie Lacteé L1 |
 |
La Balme |
|
Poorly/Mainly chipped second part is hard! |
** |
| 10/08/02 |
 |
*Du Lard St D'Esprit |
 |
La Balme |
|
Poorly/Mainly chipped 8a+/b |
* |
| 10/07/25 |
 |
Caramello |
 |
Zillertal / Bergastation |
Soft |
kind of onsight |
*** |
| 10/07/24 |
 |
Hexenkessel |
 |
Zillertal / Bachhexe |
|
Log-book, No score 1.go, traverse and 8a, did it twice |
** |
| 10/07/19 |
 |
? |
 |
Laste / north |
Soft |
no chalk, 2nd pitch, left route |
*** |
| 10/07/19 |
 |
? |
 |
Laste / east |
Soft |
|
*** |
| 10/07/14 |
 |
Marlboro Rosse |
 |
Gressoney |
Hard |
on the right, crimpy start |
*** |
| 10/07/14 |
 |
Non capisco |
 |
Gressoney |
Hard |
8b/b+ |
*** |
| 10/07/05 |
 |
Waddage |
 |
Raven Tor |
Soft |
despite being so tired from Mutation (close...) |
*** |
| 10/05/03 |
 |
Full Tilt |
 |
Kilnsey |
|
so close to onsight True North 8c... |
*** |
| 10/05/03 |
 |
Mandela |
 |
Kilnsey |
Soft |
|
*** |
| 10/04/29 |
 |
Magnetic Fields |
 |
Malham |
|
|
*** |
| 10/04/29 |
 |
Totally Free II |
 |
Malham |
|
wow! |
*** |
| 10/04/29 |
 |
Austrian Oak |
 |
Malham |
|
|
*** |
| 10/04/18 |
 |
Periferie |
 |
Labské Údolí |
Second GO |
Didn't find way in onsight go |
*** |
| 10/04/03 |
 |
*Il Danno |
 |
CIVIDATE |
Soft |
Poorly/Mainly chipped |
** |
| 10/04/03 |
 |
Plasmon direct |
 |
CIVIDATE |
Hard |
|
*** |
| 10/03/13 |
 |
A flash d'enemigo |
 |
Siurana / Siuranella N |
Soft |
sweet route to celebrate Golpe |
*** |
| 10/02/28 |
 |
*lost the guidebook |
 |
Seynes |
|
Poorly/Mainly chipped start on the right of Tube Neural |
* |
| 10/02/28 |
 |
*lost the guidebook |
 |
Seynes |
|
|
*** |
| 10/01/29 |
 |
Biotop |
 |
Claret |
|
saw Chris on the video 8 years ago |
*** |
| 10/01/03 |
 |
Jedi |
 |
Cornalba / East |
|
|
*** |
| 09/12/27 |
 |
Ti che te tacche, tacchete! |
 |
Predore |
FA |
|
*** |
| 09/11/17 |
 |
Eagles |
 |
Misja pec |
Second GO |
1st go in 2004 |
** |
| 09/11/17 |
 |
*Nocna kronika |
 |
Misja pec |
Second GO |
Poorly/Mainly chipped 1st go in 2004 |
** |
| 09/11/17 |
 |
Sreca Vrtnice |
 |
Misja Pec / Osp |
|
2 goes in 2004 and 2005 |
** |
| 09/11/08 |
 |
Peklo na zemi |
 |
Labské údolí / Růžová věž |
|
amazing friction |
** |
| 09/10/22 |
 |
*Il Verbo |
 |
Domusnovas / Ruota del Tempo |
|
Poorly/Mainly chipped hard onsight, no chalk and invisible small crimps |
|
| 09/10/10 |
 |
Subway |
 |
Frankenjura / Barenschlucht |
Second GO |
first try five years ago |
** |
| 09/10/04 |
 |
Der lange Weg zum Weißbier von rechts |
 |
Geisterschmiedwand |
|
good one |
*** |
| 09/09/12 |
 |
Feise Luise |
 |
Frankenjura / Luisenwand |
|
typical Frankenjura beauty! |
*** |
| |
| 8a+ |
| 10/08/13 |
 |
Rat Man |
 |
Céüse |
|
|
*** |
| 10/08/13 |
 |
Dolce Vita |
 |
Céüse |
|
|
*** |
| 10/08/10 |
 |
La Femme Blanche |
 |
Céüse |
Soft |
|
*** |
| 10/08/03 |
 |
Cannibale |
 |
La Balme |
|
Fell 1 meter from the top of extension, because I didn't see the pocket |
*** |
| 10/08/03 |
 |
*Andromede |
 |
La Balme |
|
Poorly/Mainly chipped nice |
*** |
| 10/08/02 |
 |
Alien |
 |
La Balme |
|
|
*** |
| 10/07/05 |
 |
Revelations |
 |
Raven Tor |
|
oh no, burnt the onsight... |
** |
| 10/05/03 |
 |
Ecstasy |
 |
Kilnsey |
|
|
*** |
| 10/04/28 |
 |
Overnite Sensation |
 |
Malham |
|
Must come back for Overshadow. It is pretty stiff 9a+ indeed. Possibly 9b? I have no clue, it is very specific move. |
** |
| 10/03/13 |
 |
Life style |
 |
Siurana / Siuranella N |
|
|
*** |
| 10/03/06 |
 |
2nd pitch in Aparador |
 |
Siurana / L'Aparador |
|
really nice |
*** |
| 10/03/06 |
 |
Repelando en la banera, nena |
 |
Siurana / L'Aparador |
Soft |
|
** |
| 10/03/02 |
 |
Cycle |
 |
Siurana / Can Rebotat |
|
|
*** |
| 10/03/02 |
 |
*Gigolo |
 |
Siurana / Can Pigui pugui |
Second GO |
Poorly/Mainly chipped could not do the long move 4 years ago |
** |
| 10/03/01 |
 |
Outback L2 |
 |
Siurana / Siuranella N |
|
no chalk, big fight in the end of the day |
** |
| 10/02/28 |
 |
*Rage De Dents |
 |
Seynes |
|
Poorly/Mainly chipped |
** |
| 10/02/07 |
 |
kuk klux klan |
 |
Siurana |
|
|
** |
| 10/02/05 |
 |
Tic i toc |
 |
Siurana |
Second GO |
1st go many years ago |
** |
| 10/02/03 |
 |
La Cara que no miente |
 |
Siurana |
|
|
** |
| 10/01/03 |
 |
Peter Pan |
 |
Cornalba / East |
Hard |
first onsight |
*** |
| 10/01/01 |
 |
*Miss Lili |
 |
Cornalba / East |
|
Poorly/Mainly chipped a few chipped holds, quite nice |
** |
| 09/10/30 |
 |
Metamorphose 7A,7A+,7B+,8A,8A+ |
 |
Frankenjura / Vergessene Welt |
Second GO |
first try 5 years ago |
*** |
| 09/10/28 |
 |
Tattergreis |
 |
Frankenjura / Luisenwand |
|
|
** |
| 09/10/22 |
 |
Il Principe plus |
 |
Domusnovas / Ruota del Tempo |
|
|
|
| 09/10/20 |
 |
Don Rodrigo |
 |
Domusnovas / Ruota del Tempo |
|
|
** |
| 09/10/20 |
 |
Master Mind |
 |
Domusnovas / Ruota del Tempo |
|
|
*** |
| 09/10/17 |
 |
Asso di cuori |
 |
Domusnovas / Ruota del Tempo |
|
the final slab in the dark |
*** |
| 09/10/11 |
 |
Bastard |
 |
Frankenjura / Gruene Hoehle |
Hard |
|
** |
| 09/10/04 |
 |
y=24x(x-2) |
 |
Geisterschmiedwand |
|
|
*** |
| 09/10/04 |
 |
Alt und neu |
 |
Geisterschmiedwand |
|
|
** |
| 09/10/03 |
 |
? |
 |
Kalkogel |
|
|
** |
| 09/10/03 |
 |
? |
 |
Kalkogel |
|
8a+ more appropriate |
*** |
| 09/09/30 |
 |
Schmunzelmonster |
 |
Basler jura / Falkenfluh |
|
|
*** |
| 09/09/30 |
 |
The Wall |
 |
Basler jura / Pelzmühletal |
Hard, Second GO |
crazyyy, 12 meters slab, everything smooth and slippery |
*** |
| |
| 8a |
| 10/08/12 |
 |
L´ami Caoutte |
 |
Céüse / Demi Lune |
|
|
*** |
| 10/08/09 |
 |
Bourinator |
 |
Céüse |
|
|
*** |
| 10/07/14 |
 |
Glory Days |
 |
Gressoney |
|
on the right |
*** |
| 10/07/05 |
 |
Toilet |
 |
Raven Tor |
|
fun |
*** |
| 10/05/01 |
 |
Raindogs |
 |
Malham |
|
grab the chains... funny |
** |
| 10/04/28 |
 |
Zoolook |
 |
Malham |
Hard |
one of the best and hardest 8a's |
*** |
| 10/03/02 |
 |
Muts a la gabia |
 |
Siurana / Ca l'Isabel |
|
|
** |
| 10/03/02 |
 |
Antuan pirulero |
 |
Siurana / Ca l'Isabel |
|
|
** |
| 10/03/02 |
 |
*Un Rato en cada Postura |
 |
Siurana / Can Pigui pugui |
|
Poorly/Mainly chipped |
|
| 10/01/29 |
 |
Aral dite |
 |
Claret |
|
|
** |
| 09/11/17 |
 |
Albanski konjak |
 |
Misja pec |
Second GO |
1 go in 2003 |
*** |
| 09/10/20 |
 |
Marylin |
 |
Domusnovas / Ruota del Tempo |
|
|
** |
| 09/10/19 |
 |
Beat |
 |
Domusnovas / Ruota del Tempo |
|
|
** |
| 09/10/04 |
 |
Kalypso |
 |
Geisterschmiedwand |
|
|
*** |
| 09/09/28 |
 |
Marque en toit |
 |
Basler jura / Chuenisberg |
Hard |
|
** |
| 09/09/28 |
 |
Moster Crack |
 |
Basler jura / Chuenisberg |
Hard |
|
*** |
| 09/09/04 |
 |
Fafifurni |
 |
Arco / Passo San Giovanni |
Second GO |
first try 6 years ago |
*** |