| |
| 9a |
| 09/10/14 |
 |
Chocholoco |
 |
Carros |
|
resistant climbing on positive holds and slopers, mostly mini tufas and underclings. very cool style, lots of compression. tried it over a few days with really bad conditions, heat and humidity, and on the first day with cool weather, it went first try. |
*** |
| 09/10/03 |
|
Abyss |
|
Gorges du loup / Deverse |
|
an example of the classic condition war. tried it the first time when it was almost dry, and then it just started seeping and getting more wet and gross everyday. in total it took 8 tries, with all 5 wet holds, and heinous humid clouds of vapor from the sea, definitely making things more difficult. I love when you don't think you can climb something due to conditions, and you somehow rise above, and end up at the chains. Priceless. a wonderful climb, with technical tufa moves, especially as its one of the only natural climbs at the crag. |
|
| |
| 8c+ |
| 10/04/14 |
|
Open Your Mind |
|
Santa Linya |
|
So syked! FINALLY didn't punt on this random project. WOW. , But, i wish it wasn't raining, and I wish Papichulo was dry...my oh my.... |
*** |
| 09/12/31 |
|
Bumaye |
|
Margalef / Laboratory |
Hard |
Amazing climb, prefect moves, and a hard style for me. I personally think this route felt as hard as most 9a's i have climbed in the years past, but potentially its just really anti-my style. We will see what others have to say as time comes... |
*** |
| 09/08/23 |
|
La Part du Diable |
|
Céüse / Biographie |
|
Well, very cool for me to be back in the game after the hellish ankle/foot/leg accident! Three months later, I can finally climb on lead, and thus can finally climb some routes for real. This route is much harder then all 8c's in ceuse, and consensus seems to be 8c+. Beautiful climb, with a heinous pocket crux at the end. Shit conditions! |
*** |
| |
| 8c |
| 10/02/26 |
|
El gran blau 8b+,8c |
|
Oliana |
Soft |
amazing route, perfect conditions. venga. |
*** |
| 10/02/06 |
|
Papa Mollat 8b+,8c |
|
Oliana |
Soft |
amazing. i like this style. fun times, fun times.... |
*** |
| 10/01/30 |
|
Fish Eye |
|
Oliana |
Hard |
great trainer for papichulo. Almost blew it by the last bolt, ayyyye! |
*** |
| 10/01/22 |
|
Identifacation y placas 8b+,8c |
|
Oliana |
Soft |
3rd try. I suppose I'm with Dani on this one...felt comparable to other 8c's in catalunia, no sais...Muy bonita. |
*** |
| 09/08/30 |
|
Arquedemicien |
|
Céüse / Demi lune |
|
Incredible face climbing on tiny structures. Would be great for onsight :) Very syked to climb this route despite the less then perfect conditions for mini grips. |
*** |
| |
| 8b+ |
| 10/03/31 |
 |
Picos Pardos 8b,8b+ |
|
Oliana |
Soft |
Blokar ou MOURIR. great conditions. A real treat. |
*** |
| 10/03/01 |
|
Via del Quim |
|
Margalef / Fenestres |
Hard |
wow. wow. so , so , so good. It was really fun, and i tried hard, and paid off, and i made. I probably should've tried to onsight it, but what ev, |
*** |
| 09/09/01 |
|
Le jour 19 aout |
|
Céüse / Nithsapa |
Soft |
world class route, potentially The best route in the world I have climbed for the grade! a beautiful blue sheer wave of rock with incredible structure! The route is an adventure, almost 80m long, and took almost 2 hours to complete, exhausting! Seems much much much harder then any 8b in ceuse, thus I feel the grade could be apropriate. |
*** |
| |
| 8b |
| 10/05/19 |
|
caña a españa |
|
Margalef |
|
Crazy little route with a crazy placa on wierd rock after a strange roof on pockets. |
*** |
| 10/04/22 |
|
?hard tech? |
|
Margalef |
Soft, FA |
An old project on these crazy tufas. I think its pretty hard to grade, as its more or less technical stemming, but we see what the peoples say...2nd go |
*** |
| 10/03/11 |
|
La Bombi |
|
Margalef / Labaratory |
|
bonita, pequena, buena! |
*** |
| 10/02/13 |
|
Marroncita 7a,7a+,8b,8b+ |
|
Oliana |
|
wow. super fun! Joder! one of the all time BEST routes, sick holds And definitely worth getting dialed to use the wonderful climb as a warm up for future days, as a TREAT!!!!! wooo! |
*** |
| 09/11/25 |
|
Cubata+chupito 3 euros 8a+,8b |
|
Margalef / Finestres |
Soft |
Classic. |
|
| 09/08/23 |
|
Radot Jolie Pepere |
|
Céüse / Demi lune |
Soft, Second GO |
tried to onsight it once a 7 years ago, and did it first try this year. nice route on classic ceuse stone. |
*** |
| |
| 8a+ |
| 10/04/06 |
|
Mon Dieu |
|
Oliana |
|
Kay Bueno. De Victor!!!! |
*** |
| 10/04/03 |
|
de victor |
|
Oliana |
|
was recommended by home boy andrada, he said 8a, great for warm up. i was soon saying, joder!!! great route by victor, and felt pretty desperate actually! sick line of techy crimpers. |
*** |
| 10/02/10 |
|
Humildes pa'riba |
|
Oliana |
Hard |
super FUN!!! |
*** |
| 10/01/29 |
|
random blue route? |
|
Margalef / Laboratory |
Second GO |
failed the first try friday...i blamed the wetness... |
|
| 09/11/26 |
|
*? |
|
Margalef / Fenestres |
Soft |
|
*** |
| 09/10/22 |
|
el fustigador |
|
Margalef / Fenestres |
Hard |
humid. |
*** |
| 09/09/22 |
|
? |
|
Gorges du loup |
|
oh yes, sick white rock. all natural=HAPPY TIMES. |
|
| 09/09/14 |
|
Deverse Satanique 7c+,8a,8a+ |
|
Gorges du loup |
|
the classic intro |
|
| 09/08/27 |
 |
Syndrome Albatros |
|
Céüse / Nithsapa |
|
Amazing route at an amazing sector. about 65 meters if you climb it all in one pitch. Some of the best rock in all of ceuse, and a bit runout, to add some spice! |
*** |
| |
| 8a |
| 10/02/06 |
|
happy hour |
|
Oliana |
Hard |
joder! not a fun warm up. should start in the 7a and it would be normal. |
*** |
| 10/01/30 |
|
Mishi |
|
Oliana |
|
Super fun warm up |
*** |
| 09/11/26 |
|
*? |
|
Margalef / Fenestres |
|
|
*** |
| 09/10/28 |
|
*? |
|
Margalef / Toxo de tenebres |
|
|
*** |
| 09/10/20 |
|
? |
|
Mont Sant / escalatas |
|
all wet! woo! petzl imagine sessions! |
*** |
| 09/10/12 |
|
? |
|
Carros |
Hard |
in the humidity, felt like thailand, and holds are all slopey. ahh. |
|
| 09/09/28 |
|
cascade |
|
Gorges du loup |
|
very fun! |
|