8a.nu - News BRA

80 year old summits Mount Everest

Fri, 24 May 2013 00:00:00 GMT

BBC reports that Yuichiro Miura (80) stood on the top of Mount Everest yesterday, making him the oldest guy ever. Miura had heart surgery four times and stood on the top twice before. Next week, the previous record holder, Min Bahadur Shercan (81) will make an attempt to get the record back.

Hojer & Wurm take German double

Sat, 18 May 2013 00:00:00 GMT

Jan Hojer (6) GER - Juliane Wurm (3) GER Dima Sharafutdinov (5) RUS - Anna St�hr (1) AUT Kilian Fischhuber (3) AUT - Akiyo Noguchi (6) JPN The fifth Boulder World Cup in Innsbruck was a great show on nice problems. Jan started first as he was sixth in the semifinal and secured the gold even if five climbers remained to try the last boulder. The same thing happened for the result of Dima and Juliane. It can be noted that during 2013, 40 % of the winners have actually started first in the final as his/her semi final results were the worst of all finalist. This relatively good results for the last ranked guys coming into the final, we have seen since 2007 and especially in the four last world championships.

Ondra on a bolting mission to Flatanger

Fri, 17 May 2013 00:00:00 GMT

Adam Ondra is on a two week bolting trip to Flatanger where he during two weeks hopes to bolt another ten routes out of five, which are probably in the 9b range. He brought a 150 m static rope and hopes that this will make it possible to bolt from the top using hooks the master the overhang. If I feel in good shape I hope to also make some FAs but the plan is to go back home and train hard and return to Flatanger later this summer. Norway is amazing during the summer and in the cave you can also climb when it rains. I have not been climbing for a week and I am super pshyched to rapel down and start projecting new amazing lines.

No plan - Just climbing: Still most popular

Thu, 16 May 2013 00:00:00 GMT
Based on 1 300 unique votes, "How do you climb/train?", we can see that the result is almost identical to a poll in 2009. This is interesting as we during the last few years have seen an increasing number of articles and discussion on 8a on how to train systematically. 09 % I follow a strict programme 41 % A bit of both 50 % No plan - Just climbing

Almost all against chipping!

Fri, 10 May 2013 00:00:00 GMT
Based on 1 600 unique votes to, " What do you think about Chipping?", we can see that the result in 2013 is a notch more negative towards chipping compared to an identical poll in 2009. Yes! = Better Climbing: 6 % (6) OK, but very seldom: 8 % (11) I do not know: 2 % (3) No, but cleaning is OK: 56 % (50) NO! Brush is the limit: 27 % (30)

Sport Climbing needs your Olympic vote

Fri, 10 May 2013 00:00:00 GMT
Inside The Games has launched a a poll for the 2020 Olympic Games and invites its readers to answer the following question: "Which sport do you think the IOC should vote to include on the Olympic programme for 2020?" After 146 000 votes for the eight candidates 1. Wrestling 39.8 % 2. Squash 30.5 % 3. Karate 24.2 % 6. Sport Climbing 0.5 %

15th 8c+ onsight by Adam Ondra

Wed, 08 May 2013 00:00:00 GMT
Adam Ondra has onsighted his 15th 8c+, Chambao in Baltzola. "Super guapa, but being flexible, it could be a little easier... 9a was postponed due to terrible humidity...I will be back." The runner up in this 8c+ onsight ranking has done one including Alexander Megos 9a. It should also be noted that Adam, last autumn, onsighted two confirmed 9a's in Red River Gorge giving them a personal grade of 8c+. After he comes back to Spain he is going to Flatanger in Norway so we are talking about a total of at least 50 hours of travelling with a car, until he can start looking for a future 9c project. (c) Alvaro Susena

Aris: Kalymnos bolts are OK

Fri, 03 May 2013 00:00:00 GMT
Climbing.co.za has published an article talking very badly about the bolt situation on Kalymnos, saying that Titanium is the only solution, that has been widely spread on Facebook. Mr Kalymnos, Aris Theodoropoulos, has made some comments saying that the bolt problem relates to remaining non- and defective stainless steel bolts. He also says that the first picture in the article was taken by him as an example of non-stainless steel bolt. The other two pictures he does not think were taken on the island. Aris also comments the article by saying, "It sounds exactly like the sales pitch of a person involved in producing titanium bolts."

Stay updated on crags and friends ascent

Thu, 02 May 2013 00:00:00 GMT
Once you are logged-in you can get automatic updates on all ascents recorded on specific crags and your friends. Just go to the scorecard and Crag you want to follow and click, "Add to My Updates/Friends".

A few forgotten 9a's by Adam Ondra

Tue, 30 Apr 2013 00:00:00 GMT
After 5 minutes there are some amazing up-side-down climbing :)
Adam Ondra - A few forgotten 9a routes... from BERNARTWOOD on Vimeo.

Harry Edwards (12) does 8c+ in RRG

Tue, 30 Apr 2013 00:00:00 GMT
RockandIce and Climbingnarc reports that Harry Edwards has done Southern Smoke 8c+ in Red River Gorge. The 12 year old also did two 8b+s during his three week trip. The first 8b+, Harry did when he was 10 years old.

Norway - The next summer destination

Tue, 30 Apr 2013 00:00:00 GMT
Norway did get a lot of media attention last year through the gigantic granitic gneiss outside Flatanger where Adam Ondra besides doing three 8c+ onsighs also established the first 9b+, Change. Lars-Ole Gudevang has helped us putting together a suggestion for a roadtrip going from Oslo (7 hours) to Stavanger, (4 h) to Bergen, (4 h) to Sogn and (6h) back to Oslo. In all these areas you have several crags mainly rainproof. The scenary driving around, in one of the most expensive countries in the world, are just mind-blowing. Three hours before the border to Norway, you pass G�teborg with 800 routes just within 15 minutes and if you expand that to 1.5 hours north, there are another 1 000 routes both trad and sport. There are also climbing around Oslo but it's the areas around Stavanger, Bergen, Sogn you want to travel inbetween and reach. Another option is to take the plan to Trondheim and go north for some amazing bouldering and sport climbing.

Sherpas attack famous climbers at Mount Everest

Mon, 29 Apr 2013 00:00:00 GMT
The Himalayan Times reports that three well known European climbers; Simone Moro, Ueli Steck and Jonathan Griffith, got thrashed near Camp-II yesterday afternoon. It was a mob of 100 sherpas who beat them up over an dispute over rope fixing. "Preparations are on to airlift Steck to Kathmandu from Lukla. The other two were taken to the base camp for treatment last evening." adventure-jounal has more info. (c) Jonathan Griffith UKC has a detailed report from the climbers.

Mind Control 8c (+) by Barbara Raudner (40)

Sat, 27 Apr 2013 00:00:00 GMT
Barbara Raudner has done Mind Control 8c (+) in Oliana which was put up by Chris Sharma. "For me Mind Control is the most beautiful route I have ever tried. I am very grateful to have had the opportunity to climb such a fantastic line in that international spot in Oliana. Thanks to all the nice people with who we spend a really great time there. Thanks for all the �venga, venga�!! Hope to see you all again!! Vamos!!" full story at her website (c) Claudiaziegler

Temperature changes

Thu, 25 Apr 2013 00:00:00 GMT
Three years ago we made a poll asking; Best temperature for hard core bouldering, and last month we run the same poll. The conclusion is simple, today the boulderers want colder temperature. Below, we show the result and in (brackets) you see the 2010 result. If we would have done a similar poll like 10 years ago, the boulderers would most certainly chosen the - I enjoy the sunshine more often. This might be a good explanation for some of the grade inflation. 08 % Below freezing (8 % in 2010) 30 % 4 Celsius (39 F) (22 % in 2010) 30 % 8 Celsius (45 F) (26 % in 2010) 17 % 12 Celsius (54 F) (21 % in 2010) 16 % I enjoy the sunshine (23 % in 2010)