8a.nu - News GLOBAL

8B+ by James Webb in an hour

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

James Webb has started his first Font trip in an amazing way by doing Kheops assis, 8B+ in an hour. "Felt amazing to finally climb on this boulder! I'll be here for the whole month. The area fits my style perfectly". Which is the best temperature? Not sure on the best temps. 0 and sunny felt great today. Maybe a bit warmer could be better. Interview with the guy who has had a continous progress for seven straight years.

Big FA by Alex Honnold in Mexico

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Alex Honnold has done the first free ascent of the eleven pitch El Giraffe Libre, 8a in El Gran Trono Blanco a previous aid line. "FA with Will Stanhope. It's the best line and the best aid route on the wall I think. It's a similar size and style to the smaller cliffs in Yosemite. Only 10 pitches or so, but good granite and nice technical climbing. A bit slabby. Small feet. I think it breaks down as 10+, 13b, 12a, 13a, 12d, 11b, 10, 11,10b. Awesome wall, cool corners. Sporty gear. Added some bolts on free climbing variations." More info at Climbing

Sticky rubber from Boreal

Thu, 02 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

In 1977, Boreal introduced a revolutionary sticky rubber. Soon many top climbers in the world like; G�llich and Moffat (in the picture), Bachar, Hill, Hirayama and Destivelle started to use The Fire. With the Zenith rubber, Boreal has done it again, made a revolutionary sticky rubber where you actually can hang, like using glue, a pen or even another shoe tip to tip. Hirayama testing the sticky rubber. How this works in practice we will come back with a review.

8A+ by Alex Johnson

Thu, 02 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Alex Johnson has done her seventh 8A+, Lethal Design in Red Rocks. "Great support crew and tons of pads! Long and crimpy. worked out all the moves quick and sent first burn." In 2008, she won the first Boulder WC she entered and in the two following WC's she was #2 and #1. Here she sums up 2011 and explains why she has retired from the comp scene etc.

8C by Chris Webb Parsons

Wed, 01 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Chris Webb Parsons has done his third 8C, Desperanza in Hueco Tanks which is a sit start to Esperanza, 8B+ that Daniel Woods respectively Fred Nicole has put up in. "Im not sure if the full grade of V15 (8C) is correct for this boulder, but being that is a tad harder than Esperanza maybe V15 is correct?" Here is an interview including his training which is structured by Christian Core. More details in his blog.

8B+ FA by Daniel Woods again

Tue, 31 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Daniel Woods has opened yet another 8B+, Mind to Motion at Elkland. "The line goes out a 35 degree overhanging bulge. There are two near parallel rails leading to a flat hold at the 3/4 point. The style is wide compression moves between the two rails with involved heel hooking and edging." (c) Dariusz Kuczynski Daniel has been one of the leading boulderers in the world since 2006 when he was 17 year old. Totally he has done 12 8C boulders out of which five in 2011. This spring he will focus more on sport. Long interview coming up including nice thoughts on training, lifestyle and gradings.

40 000 8a members

Mon, 30 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

During the last month we have received a record number of new member and we are now 40 000 members which have recorded more than 2 million ascents.

Ondra in Font part 3, flash of Gecko Assis 8B+

Mon, 30 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Video #3: BD athlete Adam Ondra bouldering in Fontainebleau, France from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

8A again by Alex Puccio

Mon, 30 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Alex Puccio has done Sunshine, 8A in Hueco Tanks which was her seventh 8A and harder the last year. There are now six 8a girls who have done the great boulder. She also did two 7C+, calling Full Service, "Best climb I have done in Hueco Tanks!" In 2011, Alex was #3 in the Boulder WC.

The 9a video by Durif (21)

Mon, 30 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Here is a 21 minute video where Charlotte Durif climbs Les 3P, 9a in Verdon, done on her 21th birthday - 110818, which previously have been questioned by the media. The leading french website actually called both Charlotte and her father, "liers". Charlotte harsh and bitter statement and 8a comments. Charlotte has won the Youth World Champion four (4) times and being 15 year old she won the European Champion in 2006. In 2010, Charlotte Durif won the World Cup in Chamonix. She has onsighted three 8b+' and one 8c. (c) Petzl

8B+ in a day by Sean McColl

Sat, 28 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Sean McColl reports that he did Kheops assis, 8B+ in just one day. More info. Last November, Sean did two 8B+ and one 8C just before he won his first Lead World Cup. The Canadian has won five Youth World Championship titles.

8B+ FA by David Graham

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Dave Graham is the living legend and one of the guys who has put up most 8A and harder FA's in the world. He was also one of the first to actively fight grade inflation. Interview is coming up.

Memory is Parallax V14 FA from BEAR CAM MEDIA on Vimeo.

8c by Barbara Raudner (35+)

Wed, 25 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Barbara Raudner has done her fifth 8c, Full equip in Oliana, "which was bolted by Victor Fernandez and it is a really an amazing route. Last October I did Honig a 45m 8c in my home area H�llental (Austria) which was a good preparation for Spain. Normally in winter I do some bouldering as training but this year Hannes and I enjoy rock climbing and an escape from the austrian winter. The rock in Spain is great and the climbers are really motivating. Barbararaudner.at (c) Hannes Raudner-Hiebler

Mayan Smith-Gobat Video & Interview

Wed, 25 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT
Mayan Smith-Gobat is doing everything from bouldering to Big Wall trad as in the video from Salathe wall, 870m 8a. Here is a new interview.
Mayan Smith-Gobat climbing the Salathe Headwall from Andy Bardon on Vimeo.

8A+ by Sarah Seeger

Wed, 25 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT
Marmot reports that Sarah Seeger, who is their PR & Communications Manager, has done Kalte Sophie, 8A+ in Frankenjura in just four days. Sarah has previously also done 8c routes. There are at least a dozen female who previously have done 8A+ and at least four who has done 8B. (c) Ricarda Miller